2.0 or more, Bigger is better Options

[Superhawk996]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/yikes.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hide.gif)

That is a project.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Nice job taking it on. Looks like someone already has new sheetmetal in it? Is the red metal on rear bulkhead and Driver Long Inner new or just primer over old metal?

You really want to take a look at adding door struts before you start welding. You'll be amazed at how much stuff moves around when welding. Pull down the chassis measurements from this site or Pelican, and keep a careful eye on them as you go.

http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims.php

[VaccaRabite]

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you need to brace the doors or you WILL twist the chassis while welding. There are lots of threads with that information in it. But for the most part people ar building stout rods with a turnbuckle in the middle you you can dial in the right amount of load to keep the car square.

Since these cars don't have a roof to add structure welding done along the longs will put a twist in the car. And you won't notice it until the very end when you are trying to re-hang the doors and the gaps refuse to line up, or worse the door refuses to close.

Zach

[930cabman]

wow, respect to you that you are so positive and optimistic about the project.
And the amount of time it will take.....and parts and money and blood, sweat, tears and excuses to buy new tools......
It will be an interesting post to follow to see how you progress.
At least you have a good lift so you are not down on your knees working away through the rust.
Good luck !!!!

Thank you Frank, if given the option, why not take the positive/optimistic perspective? Besides, I am older and moving into retirement slowly. Progress is well, I am puttering with several small patches and will move into the structural work at some point soon. A couple of sheets of 18 ga and 20 ga arrived yesterday, looking forward to cutting it up and firing up the Lincoln 140 MIG. I am leaning towards a rotisserie mounted to the bumper attachments for welding in position.

[930cabman]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
you need to brace the doors or you WILL twist the chassis while welding. There are lots of threads with that information in it. But for the most part people ar building stout rods with a turnbuckle in the middle you you can dial in the right amount of load to keep the car square.

Since these cars don't have a roof to add structure welding done along the longs will put a twist in the car. And you won't notice it until the very end when you are trying to re-hang the doors and the gaps refuse to line up, or worse the door refuses to close.

Zach

Zach,

Thank you, the reinforcing braces are at the top of my list. Back in the '80's I put a '69 Ghia back together and did not align the body at all. The car drove well for many years afterwards, but always had bad door gaps. I am considering utilizing a system that would allow test fitting the doors as progress moves along. Not sure of the method. I am considering a few spreaders at the targa area with nylon binders to hold everything together. Theoretically this would maintain the 25 1/8" number between the windshield header and the targa bar.

[914_teener]

Thanks to all, I brought the rusted hulk home Saturday and am scratching my head??? What have I gotten myself into now?? Rust on top of rust, but I was looking for a project. I have been reading several threads here but do not have a concrete plan yet. The specimen had been dis assembled about 30 years ago and stored in a garage since.

As far as the engine, a 2056 might be the lowest hanging fruit. It came with a 1.8 in several boxes. How hard can it be to get this mess together?

5 years and about 20k if you do it yourself.

About that hard.

Have fun.

[bbrock]

We are off to the races! I think you may even have the shitbox I started with beat.. not by too much but yeah, you win. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[930cabman]

Thanks to all, I brought the rusted hulk home Saturday and am scratching my head??? What have I gotten myself into now?? Rust on top of rust, but I was looking for a project. I have been reading several threads here but do not have a concrete plan yet. The specimen had been dis assembled about 30 years ago and stored in a garage since.

As far as the engine, a 2056 might be the lowest hanging fruit. It came with a 1.8 in several boxes. How hard can it be to get this mess together?

5 years and about 20k if you do it yourself.

About that hard.

Have fun.

Thanks for the info and the fuel, I will be driving this restored 914 around the streets of Buffalo next summer.

[Frankvw]

wow
"Thanks for the info, I will be driving this restored 914 around the streets of Buffalo next summer. "

That would be a super achievement. Maybe the TV shows like Overhauling will make that in 6 months with their big team and all new sponsored parts.....but that is virtually impossible for a one man team in a garage in my opinion.
Even if you have the skills, you will run out of time !
But again, respect for your optimism :-)

[VaccaRabite]

Zach,

Thank you, the reinforcing braces are at the top of my list. Back in the '80's I put a '69 Ghia back together and did not align the body at all. The car drove well for many years afterwards, but always had bad door gaps. I am considering utilizing a system that would allow test fitting the doors as progress moves along. Not sure of the method. I am considering a few spreaders at the targa area with nylon binders to hold everything together. Theoretically this would maintain the 25 1/8" number between the windshield header and the targa bar.

Don't try and bolt anything to the top of the windshield frame. Its not structural and will just bend as the car twists.

Door latch to upper door hinge, and another from the top hinge to the base of the door sill. When I say hinge, I mean make a plate that bolts into the 3 captive nuts at the top of the hinge. Again, do a search or look in the Classics section. Pics make this easier then trying to describe it.

Zach

[930cabman]

Zach,

Thank you, the reinforcing braces are at the top of my list. Back in the '80's I put a '69 Ghia back together and did not align the body at all. The car drove well for many years afterwards, but always had bad door gaps. I am considering utilizing a system that would allow test fitting the doors as progress moves along. Not sure of the method. I am considering a few spreaders at the targa area with nylon binders to hold everything together. Theoretically this would maintain the 25 1/8" number between the windshield header and the targa bar.

Don't try and bolt anything to the top of the windshield frame. Its not structural and will just bend as the car twists.

Door latch to upper door hinge, and another from the top hinge to the base of the door sill. When I say hinge, I mean make a plate that bolts into the 3 captive nuts at the top of the hinge. Again, do a search or look in the Classics section. Pics make this easier then trying to describe it.

Zach

Thanks for the heads up, I was hoping to have an easy way to test fit the doors as we go without removing the temporary braces.

[Superhawk996]

Thanks for the heads up, I was hoping to have an easy way to test fit the doors as we go without removing the temporary braces.

I don't want to toot my own horn because others have done this before I did - I didn't invent this solution.

But, since I'm lazy . . . check my build thread in my signature. 1st page post #4.

My door braces don't interfere with the doors and I've done all welding with doors in place rather than try to count on measurements and trial fittings.

[bbrock]

Thanks for the heads up, I was hoping to have an easy way to test fit the doors as we go without removing the temporary braces.

I don't want to toot my own horn because others have done this before I did - I didn't invent this solution.

But, since I'm lazy . . . check my build thread in my signature. 1st page post #4.

My door braces don't interfere with the doors and I've done all welding with doors in place rather than try to count on measurements and trial fittings.

Yeah, I did it too and highly recommend it. Use the upper bolt sockets for the seat belts and weld a big nut to front of the inner long near the speaker boxes. Run your adjustable brace between then ad you'll be able to install doors with the braces on.

[930cabman]

Thanks for the heads up, I was hoping to have an easy way to test fit the doors as we go without removing the temporary braces.

I don't want to toot my own horn because others have done this before I did - I didn't invent this solution.

But, since I'm lazy . . . check my build thread in my signature. 1st page post #4.

My door braces don't interfere with the doors and I've done all welding with doors in place rather than try to count on measurements and trial fittings.

Yeah, I did it too and highly recommend it. Use the upper bolt sockets for the seat belts and weld a big nut to front of the inner long near the speaker boxes. Run your adjustable brace between then ad you'll be able to install doors with the braces on.

Hawk, Brent,

Thanks, I have seen these in a few of the threads I have researched, just wasn't sure of the connections at the door hinge end. Can I assume it's a unanimous NO with bracing from the windshield frame?

[Superhawk996]

Can I assume it's a unanimous NO with bracing from the windshield frame?

IMHO -- No. There is no structure in the A-pillar / windshield frame. Not at all like a modern car that has to meet roll over impact standards that lead to robust A-pillars. If you look at modern cars - roll over regs are a main reason why the A-pillars have become so wide that they have become a blind spot unto themselves. It takes a lot of structure to support a modern 3500- 6000 lb vehicle upside down! Hmm . . . wasn't weight the subject of another thread . . . but I digress.

The 914's targa bar is the structural element meant to keep you from having the car crush you in a rollover.

It was actually pretty advanced for it's time. Many convertibles of that era would simply roll over and crush the occupants.

[bbrock]

^^^^^^
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I think bracing to the frame will get you nowhere other than a twisted tub AND bent windshield frame. It really is a weak structure. The passenger side on mine was bent down a few mm from people hefting their lard asses out of the seat by pulling on the frame over the years. I just grabbed it and pulled it back to factory spec measurements by hand.

[mepstein]

I posted on PP before seeing it here but in my, non educated opinion, to replace that much structural metal, you need a frame jig (like Jeff Hail built) or Celette bench.

[930cabman]

I posted on PP before seeing it here but in my, non educated opinion, to replace that much structural metal, you need a frame jig (like Jeff Hail built) or Celette bench.

It looks like Jeff H has the corner on reconstructing the 914 rustout. I have studied his thread several times and are planning a similar strategy.

Its all math, weather geometry or structural calcs. Good thing my youngest daughter is a math teacher

[seanpaulmc]

Thanks for the heads up, I was hoping to have an easy way to test fit the doors as we go without removing the temporary braces.

I don't want to toot my own horn because others have done this before I did - I didn't invent this solution.

But, since I'm lazy . . . check my build thread in my signature. 1st page post #4.

My door braces don't interfere with the doors and I've done all welding with doors in place rather than try to count on measurements and trial fittings.

Yeah, I did it too and highly recommend it. Use the upper bolt sockets for the seat belts and weld a big nut to front of the inner long near the speaker boxes. Run your adjustable brace between then ad you'll be able to install doors with the braces on.

Hawk, Brent,

Thanks, I have seen these in a few of the threads I have researched, just wasn't sure of the connections at the door hinge end. Can I assume it's a unanimous NO with bracing from the windshield frame?

Take a look at the thread "My '74 project" by @pencap914 .
I asked the same question and he posted a very detailed shot that will be useful for you.

[930cabman]

Had some progress in the shop today. I went with a different method of holding the body while she is being cut apart. Old inner long finally gave it up, but not without a fight.

[914_teener]

Holy cow.


You should buy that tub from that guy in the UK...for $1,500.


Man...the entire long is kaput.