Turn key, battery goes flat, ignition switch smoky. Options

[jaredmcginness]

Me again.
It’s gonna be one problem post a day, until next years Octeener fest. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

So close here to firing this motor (in the car)(works fine outside of it)
I’m thinking I have a short somewhere in the ignition, but everything seems to check out.

Notes:

Early car, early VW style switch. (After market)
Turn key, ACC works fine, fuel pump relay clicks, all electrics work.
12v to coil, 12v to starter, power supply relay is good.

Turn key to run, Nothing - power goes flat, as long as I hold the key down.

Messing around a bit, tried again and the ignition switch/column starts
smoking and the IGNS wires are warm.

I believe once she smokes she’s done.

I’ll buy a new switch tomorrow, but I’m trying to probe if this sounds like more than a switch.



All my wiring matches the bowlsby pages. Battery is new.
Switch was new (but probably Taiwan crap), new ground to battery and new ground strap. Cleaned every ground I can find. Does not even considering the idea of cranking.
Starter cranks fine when manually jumped.


Now that my smoke is out, queue the ‘Replacement Can’ comments. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[VaccaRabite]

Do you have a solenoid at the starter to handle the big load for starting the car? If not, do that.

As stock, all the power for starting the car goes all the way from the battery to the ignition switch and the back to the starter. The solenoid lets you run a thick cable from the battery to the starter motor and keeps the switch at low amperage. Most of us use a Ford solenoid, the wiring is very simple and they are CHEAP. I have mine bolted to the back of the engine tins so it sits right next to the starter.

This won't fix you immediate problem, but will keep your starter switch from melting in the future.

Zach

[Superhawk996]

As stock, all the power for starting the car goes all the way from the battery to the ignition switch and the back to the starter.

Zach

Be careful with this - I'll modify:

As stock, all the power for starting the car goes all the way from the battery to the ignition switch and the back to the OEM Starter SOLENOID.

The starter motor current (upwards of 100 amps or more) is not drawn through the yellow wire via the ignition switch. The yellow wire handles the OEM starter solenoid current not the actual starter motor current.