 How to remove push rod tubes? |
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| Air_Cooled_Nut |
  Jul 17 2005, 12:09 PM
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#1
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914 Ronin - 914 owner who lost his 914club.com  Group: Members Posts: 1,748 Joined: 19-April 03 From: Beaverton, Oregon Member No.: 584 Region Association: None  |
The seals on the tubes need to be replaced. The #4 exhaust one is leaking right in front of me and the engine hasn't been run for a year. All my manuals say don't use pliers so how are they removed? Rocker arms, retaining wire and push rods are out. It wiggles a smidge but I can't get a real grip on them and they seem to be stuck to the block.
This is my first time replacing the seals so any other recommendations are appreciated. Right now I'm just trying to get the left side done (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) |
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| Joe Bob |
Jul 17 2005, 12:24 PM
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#2
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Retired admin, banned a few times Group: Members Posts: 17,427 Joined: 24-December 02 From: Boulder CO Member No.: 5 Region Association: None |
Remove pushrods..... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)
Take a pair of vice grips or channel locks, lightly clamp onto tube, twist and push....should pop right out. |
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| ejm |
Jul 17 2005, 12:40 PM
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#3
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I can see the light at the end of the tunnel Group: Members Posts: 2,707 Joined: 3-February 03 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 224 Region Association: None |
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif) I always use slip joint pliers...just don't crush the tube
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| ChrisFoley |
Jul 17 2005, 01:13 PM
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#4
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I am Tangerine Racing Group: Members Posts: 7,986 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None 
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I use a set of small curved jaw vise grips and twist back and forth at the same time as pulling outwards. You can put tape or a paper towel between the jaws and the tubes to help prevent damage. |
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| Air_Cooled_Nut |
Jul 17 2005, 01:19 PM
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#5
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914 Ronin - 914 owner who lost his 914club.com Group: Members Posts: 1,748 Joined: 19-April 03 From: Beaverton, Oregon Member No.: 584 Region Association: None |
I'm trying but the slip-joints are slippin' (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/sad.gif) I'm afraid I might be better off getting new tubes and just sacrificing the current ones.
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| Air_Cooled_Nut |
Jul 17 2005, 01:26 PM
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#6
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914 Ronin - 914 owner who lost his 914club.com Group: Members Posts: 1,748 Joined: 19-April 03 From: Beaverton, Oregon Member No.: 584 Region Association: None |
Okay, at $5/each and me without a job maybe I'll try a firmer grasp.
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| Dave_Darling |
Jul 17 2005, 01:44 PM
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#7
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 15,161 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California
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So far, I've been able to remove mine just using my bare hands. Well, I used my bare hands the first time. Then, after washing them and applying several band-aids, I started wearing heavy work gloves when removing them. Smashing your fingers into the back of the cylinder head will tend to make you more cautious...
--DD |
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| Air_Cooled_Nut |
Jul 17 2005, 01:54 PM
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#8
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914 Ronin - 914 owner who lost his 914club.com Group: Members Posts: 1,748 Joined: 19-April 03 From: Beaverton, Oregon Member No.: 584 Region Association: None |
I got the #4 tubes out. I think I was on the very edge of crushing them but they came out a little scuffed but still round (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/mueba.gif)
The #3 tubes are not as easy so I must remove the lower cooling tin to get at them. And, of course, one of the screw heads is stripped (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) Compared to the T1-T3 engines, these T4 engines SUCK! They are not easy to work on in comparison (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/barf.gif) I can't image how much the valve adjustements are gonna be as a PITA with the engine in the car. |
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| Air_Cooled_Nut |
Jul 17 2005, 02:24 PM
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#9
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914 Ronin - 914 owner who lost his 914club.com Group: Members Posts: 1,748 Joined: 19-April 03 From: Beaverton, Oregon Member No.: 584 Region Association: None |
With some heat, PB Blaster and vice-grips on the threaded end, I was able to remove the offending tin screw.
With the cooling tin off I was able to pull the #3 tubes but they were on tighter so I ended up slightly crushing both of them. The crush depth looks about the same as the pre-molded grooves at the outer ends of the tubes...is this okay or do I need to replace the two tubes? |
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| Air_Cooled_Nut |
Jul 17 2005, 04:25 PM
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#10
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914 Ronin - 914 owner who lost his 914club.com Group: Members Posts: 1,748 Joined: 19-April 03 From: Beaverton, Oregon Member No.: 584 Region Association: None |
All tubes out. #2 exhaust was lost in the process (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/sad.gif) What a PITA. Just need new seals, one tube, and she can go back together. Oh, the four cylinder head nuts were good @ 23 lb./ft. so I'm gonna assume the others hidden within the cooling tin are good as well. Can't wait to get the engine back in the car but first there's need for a full hell-hole replacement... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/welder.gif)
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