The seals on the tubes need to be replaced. The #4 exhaust one is leaking right in front of me and the engine hasn't been run for a year. All my manuals say don't use pliers so how are they removed? Rocker arms, retaining wire and push rods are out. It wiggles a smidge but I can't get a real grip on them and they seem to be stuck to the block.

This is my first time replacing the seals so any other recommendations are appreciated. Right now I'm just trying to get the left side done

Remove pushrods.....

Take a pair of vice grips or channel locks, lightly clamp onto tube, twist and push....should pop right out.

I always use slip joint pliers...just don't crush the tube

QUOTE (ejm @ Jul 17 2005, 02:40 PM)

I always use slip joint pliers...just don't crush the tube

I use a set of small curved jaw vise grips and twist back and forth at the same time as pulling outwards.
You can put tape or a paper towel between the jaws and the tubes to help prevent damage.

I'm trying but the slip-joints are slippin' I'm afraid I might be better off getting new tubes and just sacrificing the current ones.

Okay, at $5/each and me without a job maybe I'll try a firmer grasp.

So far, I've been able to remove mine just using my bare hands. Well, I used my bare hands the first time. Then, after washing them and applying several band-aids, I started wearing heavy work gloves when removing them. Smashing your fingers into the back of the cylinder head will tend to make you more cautious...

--DD

I got the #4 tubes out. I think I was on the very edge of crushing them but they came out a little scuffed but still round

The #3 tubes are not as easy so I must remove the lower cooling tin to get at them. And, of course, one of the screw heads is stripped

Compared to the T1-T3 engines, these T4 engines SUCK! They are not easy to work on in comparison I can't image how much the valve adjustements are gonna be as a PITA with the engine in the car.

With some heat, PB Blaster and vice-grips on the threaded end, I was able to remove the offending tin screw.

With the cooling tin off I was able to pull the #3 tubes but they were on tighter so I ended up slightly crushing both of them. The crush depth looks about the same as the pre-molded grooves at the outer ends of the tubes...is this okay or do I need to replace the two tubes?

All tubes out. #2 exhaust was lost in the process What a PITA. Just need new seals, one tube, and she can go back together. Oh, the four cylinder head nuts were good @ 23 lb./ft. so I'm gonna assume the others hidden within the cooling tin are good as well. Can't wait to get the engine back in the car but first there's need for a full hell-hole replacement...