Electrical - Starting Issue |
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Electrical - Starting Issue |
FUEL14 |
Jan 11 2021, 03:55 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 56 Joined: 11-August 18 From: Melbourne, Australia Member No.: 22,382 Region Association: Australia and New Zealand |
Hi, I have searched the forum for answers to starting issues, but I can't seem to find a thread for a problem exactly like mine.
The 3-year restoration of my car is about to come to an end, with a plan to be on the road early February. The wiring has been checked by a professional and modified/repaired where necessary. Everything was working great, starting no problem at all. But, just a couple of days ago, she turned over in the morning and didn't in the afternoon. Nothing was done to the car in between aside from a rear coilover adjustment. When I turn the key to the first position, I can hear the fuel pump whirring and all lights, horn etc work ok. But when I turn further to crank, all I get is a single click from the under-dash fuse box area. I installed a new battery as part of the restoration. The voltmeter is reading 13.4. Any ideas what might have gone wrong? Thanks in advance, Luke. |
FUEL14 |
Jan 22 2021, 08:23 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 56 Joined: 11-August 18 From: Melbourne, Australia Member No.: 22,382 Region Association: Australia and New Zealand |
I still need help with this, please. But, I have some new information...
The problem is somewhere in the ignition switch/barrel area. See photos below for reference of my switch, inside my barrel and also the key, showing wear for reference (if that's relevant). When I turn the ignition switch with a screwdriver, all works ok.. engine starts, happy days. When I assemble the switch into the barrel and turn with the key, it does not. When I turn the key in the barrel by itself when disconnected from the column, just holding it in my hands, things 'sound' correct. I mean, I can hear the key turning through the motions as it should. So, something is preventing the key from turning the switch when things are assembled together. Any ideas? Looking at the photo of the key-end of my switch, does that look worn out? Could that be the issue? Or maybe, is the tab in the barrel somehow not connecting properly? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-22382-1611368595.1.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-22382-1611368596.2.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-22382-1611368596.3.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-22382-1611368597.4.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-22382-1611368597.5.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-22382-1611368597.6.jpg) |
wndsrfr |
Jan 23 2021, 07:30 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,428 Joined: 30-April 09 From: Rescue, Virginia Member No.: 10,318 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Take the assembly to a locksmith that's been in the business for a while....they can verify what's not right and likely make what's called a "code cut" key that will work perfectly....likely won't cost more than about $75 & take less than an hour.
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