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> Just another home build 2056 upgrade...but this one is mine!, Redux THrē: It's been so FUN lets do it again.....
rfinegan
post Sep 27 2021, 12:28 PM
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@ChrisFoley

Thanks for the feed back.. I will to check again once I get the heads fixed for sure.
I did do the light spring trick and remember reading to check at various rotation of the crank. Not set full lift. But I do not recall the distance. I think it was close to the minimum of .080 or just under you mentioned. Thinking the doubles springs should control my rpm range, I moved forward.

Will do the PlayDo trick to as a reality check.

It's odd the fails we're 1 and 3 intakes on the same lobe. And rear cylinders. IM thinking they kissed the pistons at some time on a high Rev and ran ok. Resulting in a sticking/ tight valve, when they got hot they stuck and failed? Else why did the front two intake valves on 2 and 4 touch too and bend pushrods?

Either way I think valve pockets is a good thing here. I know they touched at least once and EZ to do now that its apart.. I also have a Bridge port and some fly cutters. 20-40% bigger then valve sound about right to me. (44/38)

How deep can you safely pocket the top of a KB 96 piston? Enough to get the .120 or a set max amount.
This is better they playing with the DeckHeight as pushrods and geometry have been set

Best Regards
-Robert

PS. No hurry on the stub pipes, when ever they are ready is OK now...






QUOTE(ChrisFoley @ Sep 27 2021, 09:25 AM) *

Those valve marks look like repeated hard contact.
If all the other setup dimensions were correct, you just didn't provide adequate valve/piston clearance.
When I set up an engine for a new cam, I replace my valve springs with rocker spacer springs and rock the engine near top dead center while repeatedly poking the valve against the piston. At some position before or after TDC, depending on which valve, it will reach the closest approach point. It's easy to measure piston/valve clearance from the outside that way.
I wouldn't go less than .080" and probably not less than .120" on intakes in most applications.
BTW, you can create the pockets you need with a hand held cutoff wheel worn down to valve head diameter. The location is well laid out already. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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rfinegan
post Sep 27 2021, 02:31 PM
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Here is a thought I seem to have been over looking....

The Piston to Valve clearance is not only to control clearance at high revs but for Thermal Expansion too. This seems to fit that the rear cylinders are the ones that failed. If I did not have enough clearance? I will increase the clearance to .120 + on both intake and exhaust with the valve notches in the pistons. Im pretty sure I used the minimum size here when I tested that . I will report what that was when I get it back together.

I am thinking the intake valve was .060 to .080 ish? I have no notes, but remember doing the press on the rocker to get the valve to touch the pistons at various locations.

I am thinking I was on the lean side of things too or high head/ combustion temps..I had spark knock only after spirited driving ,so timing and AFR testing was on the TODO but this failure peaked its ugly head (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
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rfinegan
post Oct 4 2021, 04:11 PM
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How to notch piston for valve clearance for KB pistons (.050)

HERE:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry2950326
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rfinegan
post Nov 1 2021, 10:05 AM
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I just opened the box from CFR (tangerine racing) and My stub pipes are in!
1 5/8 od pipes and look GREAT. I will get them bolted up once the heads arrive back from EMW

But here is a pic of the difference from the old ones I had in use..
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rfinegan
post Nov 1 2021, 03:19 PM
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another pic as they are just so pretty...and I am waiting on the heads with nothing to do.

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Superhawk996
post Nov 23 2021, 09:06 AM
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QUOTE(rfinegan @ Jul 24 2021, 08:44 PM) *

Just added some details to the air cleaners




Missed this when originally posted. How cool! Oscar is the man. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
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rfinegan
post Nov 23 2021, 09:45 AM
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Heads are in transit back to me from EMW. I will start the clean up and reasemble possibly this week end. I need to find the std main bearings I had left over for another member...
Here is a pic of the welded head repair:
More when they arrive back to me.


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rfinegan
post Nov 29 2021, 05:19 AM
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Heads and Stubs. Too pretty not to shareAttached Image
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rfinegan
post Nov 29 2021, 07:08 AM
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another picAttached Image
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Root_Werks
post Nov 29 2021, 10:45 AM
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Looking good! Getting closer to engine assembly!
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GBX0073
post Nov 29 2021, 02:01 PM
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Love it
built back even better !!!
Really enjoy this thread
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bkrantz
post Nov 29 2021, 08:16 PM
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More good stuff!

BTW, is it just me, or do others get a few downloads launched every time I open this thread?
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rfinegan
post Nov 30 2021, 06:44 AM
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??? What's getting downloaded? Automaticaly? Or are you saying you are saving a lot of information for referenece?
Download all you want...that is why I am sharing this experience. Learn from my wins and losses. What works and did not work for me...

Best

-Robert

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Nov 29 2021, 06:16 PM) *

More good stuff!

BTW, is it just me, or do others get a few downloads launched every time I open this thread?
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BeatNavy
post Nov 30 2021, 07:10 AM
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QUOTE(bkrantz @ Nov 29 2021, 10:16 PM) *

More good stuff!

BTW, is it just me, or do others get a few downloads launched every time I open this thread?

I haven't noticed anything.
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Cairo94507
post Nov 30 2021, 07:43 AM
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Yeah, whatever you are downloading is not related to anything in Robert's thread. BTW, this is going to be one great running 2056! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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GBX0073
post Nov 30 2021, 10:58 AM
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bkrantz sent you a pm on what might be the issue
will also add I am willing to help you remote for your PC too
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rfinegan
post Dec 30 2021, 12:48 PM
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Today I am going to safety wire the stub nuts for the CFR stub pipes: I have never do this so the plan is to use the wire to keep the nuts from coming loose. Happy New Year Y'all



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ud6TRaBMMes
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rfinegan
post Dec 30 2021, 01:06 PM
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Getting ready to put the 2 case half back together. The rods are torqued and crank and cam is in the one half. Waiting on some locktite 518 for the oil pump before I can install the other half with Kurl T2 sealant and teflon pipe sealant for the long case bolts and washers.

I am installing the oil pump on one half of the case and sandwiching it into place with the other half. Sealant on the intake and output ports sealed with anaerobic sealer ...so the sealant doesn't to get scraped off by pressing it in to place.
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rfinegan
post Jan 3 2022, 01:50 PM
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I was inspired to do a recording after seeing a live feed of @Iankarr and Jake discussion of the oil by pass. It was on my todo list for my redux 2056 so bumped it up to the top of the todo list.

Here we have a Piston/Rod to replace the spring and still use the original piston in the oil by pass of early(er) type 4 engine.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0xAVg8l1wA
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rfinegan
post Jan 7 2022, 12:07 PM
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Today the loctite 518 sealant arrived so I was able to put the oil pump and case halves together.... SO the bottom end is back together again!

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