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> Just another home build 2056 upgrade...but this one is mine!, Redux THrē: It's been so FUN lets do it again.....
rfinegan
post Feb 5 2022, 02:28 PM
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ChrisFoley
post Feb 6 2022, 08:29 AM
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That thermostat is going to heat up pretty quick. I'm not sure it will improve the engine warmup versus locking the flaps in the open position.
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76-914
post Feb 6 2022, 08:47 AM
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Maybe a small metal heat shield between the therm & header? You could use the same two studs mount it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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rfinegan
post Feb 14 2022, 02:25 PM
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Today I finished the rockers and pushrods and set the valve lash for break in and installed new valve cover gaskets. I have the Stub pipes for the headers installed and the exhaust pipes while I have room to work. I will wrap the last of the pipes with the extra Fiberglass wrap I have left over.

I installed a new thermo couple on the # 3 head bolt and double checked the head torque on 3/4 head

Then I will start on the blow housing and tins, Plugs, wire etcAttached Image
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rfinegan
post Feb 14 2022, 02:29 PM
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I think I'll add a piece of coat hanger as a push rod to keep the Thermostat flaps in the open position till I get a thermostat location worked out. Last place did not seem to open after fair amount of driving
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rfinegan
post Feb 21 2022, 04:08 PM
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Engine installed and cranked over without plugs until oil pressure is up to 70 psi 20w50.
Found a leak will check if it loose bolt on oil fitter console or the cooler by pass valve

Shifter is now hitting the exhaust with the new sub pipes and the 1/4 flanges/gaskets. I have to pull the stubs and machine the steps off? or bend the shifter rod to get clearance for 4/5 gears

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rfinegan
post Feb 21 2022, 04:09 PM
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First pic is there it hits.

Here is the full shot under the car

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930cabman
post Feb 21 2022, 04:22 PM
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QUOTE(rfinegan @ Feb 21 2022, 05:08 PM) *

Engine installed and cranked over without plugs until oil pressure is up to 70 psi 20w50.
Found a leak will check if it loose bolt on oil fitter console or the cooler by pass valve

Shifter is now hitting the exhaust with the new sub pipes and the 1/4 flanges/gaskets. I have to pull the stubs and machine the steps off? or bend the shifter rod to get clearance for 4/5 gears

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How long did you crank the engine before the oil pressure shot up? 20 seconds? 60 seconds?
thanks
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rfinegan
post Feb 21 2022, 04:34 PM
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...after about the 3rd crank at about 15 sec each. and getting nervous the pressure rose and swings right up to 70 psi

So bout 45 secs or so

cranking speed was fast and smooth too.
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ChrisFoley
post Feb 22 2022, 03:23 PM
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Better to alter the rod than the stubs.
You can flatten out the rod a bit with a hammer if the interference isn't too severe.
The actual shape of the rod makes no difference as long as the ends line up correctly.
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rfinegan
post Feb 23 2022, 06:05 AM
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Thanks @chrisfoley I was hoping you would say that.. I will post back what I come up with. A little heat from the Oxygen Acetylene torch will change the shape in no time. But I will try a big hammer first. The metal may not be that hard. Every thing else seems to look and fits good and the little extra clearance on the clutch side make for a very clean clutch install with your remounted clutch pivot plate and some heat wrap. Looks very tidy.
Thanks again.. your the best and so are your parts


-Robert



QUOTE(ChrisFoley @ Feb 22 2022, 01:23 PM) *

Better to alter the rod than the stubs.
You can flatten out the rod a bit with a hammer if the interference isn't too severe.
The actual shape of the rod makes no difference as long as the ends line up correctly.
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rfinegan
post Mar 5 2022, 10:23 AM
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This is getting interesting...I think some on set the throttle pedal stop high to keep there kid from going to FAST!. ..

TIP: ALWAYS check Wide Open Throttle (WOT) when setting up your carbs or throttle plate.

MY stop on the pedal board took more that a few, to several turns to get WOT!

Heheheh..this is going to be FUN!

Now to hook up the ignition(Power) wires on coil and HIFIre/MSD then test fire and timing...

Take a look down the throttle bore HERE:

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rfinegan
post Mar 6 2022, 04:59 PM
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Working on the shifter clearance it from hitting the exhaust pipe. These are hollow and fairly easy to bend. I took @ChrisFoley advice to maintain the locations of both ends by tracing a template of the Original shape on paper with a sharpie. Then off to the Vise to alter the shape and bend to fit. It took a few tries but I think I got it. Seem to get all the gears and does not touch . I will have to changes the Shift stops of the Rennshift, but that is not difficult at all. The white is just cheap primmer to show me where the rubbing was happening. Ill dust some black paint on it when I install the cover and boots after a test drive

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Cairo94507
post Mar 7 2022, 07:35 AM
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Nice progress Robert. You will be driving that baby again in no time now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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rfinegan
post Mar 7 2022, 09:35 AM
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@Cairo94507 The Engine is running now ...working on the carb sync and timing . Set to an initial 8 degrees right now. A fresh 5 gals of 94 octane to get this thing up and going in the right direction
New parking cables and new dust boots on the pistons for the rear caliber are in progress along with the SS flex hoses from PMB group buy. Going to be nice to have Fresh brake fluid after how many years?
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rfinegan
post Mar 12 2022, 12:22 PM
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I need some help PLEASE.

I have the engine back in the car and its running poor and start the "SAME" howling noise I had just before it failed the first time. The engine turns over with the bolt on alternator fine so not thinking bearing.. or alternator?.

Please take moment and listen to this and let me know what you thing...note the head temp and oil pressure in video looks good. the first howling noise as while running and I stoped immediately. The next morning i pulled the plugs and compression check :
COLD WOT with charger
1 140
2 140
3 140
4 145

Lots of miss firing popping and fouled plugs
replaced plugs and set timing to 28 @ 3500 ( 8 base) running but not real well not missing and no power


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzrqlBq0rqA
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rfinegan
post Mar 13 2022, 02:45 PM
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It's been so much fun, lets do it again?
Since I did not find the root cause and just repaired the heads and valves, it no surprise that it failed again! It looks like it was not an over rev condition the caused the pistons to hit the pistons. I will only be posting the Fixes I encounter moving forward to keep the World Advised. IT is going to take a while as I am reluctant to shot gun more $$$ at this again.
I will install the original 2.0 and put her back on the road and have some fun...while I find out what went wrong? Thanks for the support and a big shout out for advice to @Jake Raby
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ddire333
post Mar 13 2022, 04:03 PM
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Well that sucks, sorry don't have any suggestions.
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BeatNavy
post Mar 13 2022, 04:23 PM
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I agree that sucks Robert. Are you sure it's something internal and not something intake or ignitiion related? When you tore it down last time you had evidence of valve interference. Were you getting the same symptoms last time? Those compression numbers look good, so....maybe NOT something internal.

Otherwise I have not clue but hope for the best.
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rfinegan
post Mar 13 2022, 04:33 PM
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I'm going to do another compression test and maybe a leak down but somethings is amiss (pun intended ) ;-)
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