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> Repairing Engine Tin, A newbie's lesson in welding - second side
Arno914
post Apr 20 2021, 08:37 AM
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Any "normal" 914 was long rusted to pieces before the cracks in the engine tin would start to develop. Therefore the "timing" of the factory was right. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)
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seanpaulmc
post Apr 21 2021, 05:07 PM
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QUOTE(930cabman @ Apr 20 2021, 09:00 AM) *

Great job, can I send a couple of mine in for repair?


@930cabman

At my current rate of progress it will take about 50 years. Can you wait? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

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930cabman
post Apr 21 2021, 05:12 PM
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QUOTE(seanpaulmc @ Apr 21 2021, 05:07 PM) *

QUOTE(930cabman @ Apr 20 2021, 09:00 AM) *

Great job, can I send a couple of mine in for repair?


@930cabman

At my current rate of progress it will take about 50 years. Can you wait? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


I was kidding. I am trying to make one good #3, #4 upper tin from two badly rusted pieces. Keep up the good work, do you have a build thread going here?
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seanpaulmc
post Apr 21 2021, 05:19 PM
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Moving onto the other side...

This is the main top tin for the 1-2 side.

Attached Image


Attached Image


Attached Image


It's in better shape than the 3-4 side however it's been customized to fit from the obvious deformations. It will also need some small weld repairs.
Now my questions:

1. Is this the correct tin for a 2.0L engine?
2. What is the tube coming off the side next to the #2 cylinder?
3. What is the bracket for at the back by the #1 cylinder?
4. In the side view, should it curve down like this or is this "customized"?

Just want to reiterate that I appreciate the feedback. It's been pivotal in getting the other side welded up and ready to be put back in service.

Thank you!
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seanpaulmc
post Apr 23 2021, 11:39 AM
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Bump for questions about the 1-2 tin.

How much do I need to worry about trying to straighten out this 1-2 side of the Tin?
Seems reasonable to do but I don't know if it should have any curve to it or not.

Thanks,
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dirk2056
post May 8 2021, 10:52 AM
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Can someone post pictures of what profile the tins are design to look? I assume they are not flat profile?
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930cabman
post May 8 2021, 03:33 PM
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QUOTE(seanpaulmc @ Apr 21 2021, 05:19 PM) *

Moving onto the other side...

This is the main top tin for the 1-2 side.

Attached Image


Attached Image


Attached Image


It's in better shape than the 3-4 side however it's been customized to fit from the obvious deformations. It will also need some small weld repairs.
Now my questions:

1. Is this the correct tin for a 2.0L engine?
2. What is the tube coming off the side next to the #2 cylinder?
3. What is the bracket for at the back by the #1 cylinder?
4. In the side view, should it curve down like this or is this "customized"?

Just want to reiterate that I appreciate the feedback. It's been pivotal in getting the other side welded up and ready to be put back in service.

Thank you!


Q #1: I would say yes this would be a 2.0 #1, #2 top tin. The spark plug holes appear to be in the correct locations. 1.7 and 1.8 liter motors have the spark plug holes higher up on the tin.
Q #2: I cannot help with this one
Q #3: Bracket is for mounting the pressure regulator
Q #4: From what I can tell the tin is bent, the correct plane should be apparent when you fit the rear (from side to side) tin.

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76-914
post May 8 2021, 04:26 PM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 24 2021, 07:56 AM) *

QUOTE(Archie @ Feb 23 2021, 08:21 PM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 23 2021, 06:26 AM) *

Take a section of copper sheet or copper pipe and beat it flat, then back up the weld area with the copper. You still have to spot weld, but the copper backer stops it from blowing through and doesn't stick to the weld.


Great advice!


Thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Thicker copper sheet holds up better but beating copper pipe flat is handy for backing up curved shapes and hàrd to get to areas. The copper has to be pressed against the weld area, if there's a gap it will blow through. The pipe is too thin of a material and will degrade quickly, but I just make another tool.

Mark, your probably using tube that is type M. That is a thin residential grade and is easily identified by the RED lettering. FWIW, type K is the thickest for industrial use and has Green lettering. Type DWV, used for drains, waste & vents, is the very thinnest and has Yellow lettering. Use either type L tube, which has Blue lettering, or use a copper fitting which will have the wall thickness of type L. Your will be able to more easily bend your copper backing plate if you anneal it. Copper stiffens over time and will need annealing occasionally. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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seanpaulmc
post May 8 2022, 05:18 PM
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I truly appreciate all the tips and support on welding that were provided. The suggestions and links helped me a lot and I'm happy with how the tins came out for a very first time welding effort.

To finished this one out, here are the Tins back from powder coating...

Attached Image

Attached Image


Thanks and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)
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Mark Henry
post May 8 2022, 05:48 PM
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QUOTE(seanpaulmc @ May 8 2022, 07:18 PM) *

I truly appreciate all the tips and support on welding that were provided. The suggestions and links helped me a lot and I'm happy with how the tins came out for a very first time welding effort.

To finished this one out, here are the Tins back from powder coating...

Attached Image

Attached Image


Thanks and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

Good job, I just did all that... X8 sets.
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