Main Targa seal, Not having any success |
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Main Targa seal, Not having any success |
Morph914 |
Apr 3 2021, 09:43 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 435 Joined: 22-August 16 From: St Augustine, FL Member No.: 20,326 Region Association: South East States |
I would take installing the air box 5 times, over putting this seal in. I cannot get it to conform at the top where it makes the bend. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
I have tried heating the rubber in this area to get it to conform to the bend without any luck. The 914 rubber piece is reinforced in the exact location that it needs to make the bend. Not sure what to do at this point. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) You can see where the original piece is bent. |
AFyrigos |
Apr 3 2021, 10:17 AM
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#2
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 3 Joined: 26-December 17 From: Laval, QC, Canada Member No.: 21,725 Region Association: Canada |
I just received a new rubber as well. Haven’t started yet but here’s some videos that they suggested me
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/753oghdf1qg4h03/...oKSQOzj_qa?dl=0 |
mgphoto |
Apr 3 2021, 11:39 AM
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#3
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"If there is a mistake it will find me" Group: Members Posts: 1,330 Joined: 1-April 09 From: Los Angeles, CA Member No.: 10,225 Region Association: Southern California |
I did this about a year ago, work from the top down, fit the curve in first and don’t stretch it, eventually there should be extra that you will trim at the bottom. Take your time, tape the edges.
Your photo shows that the top corner is not installed correctly, the edge of the rubber should be perpendicular to the ground so the roof weatherstripping butts up against it. |
Morph914 |
Apr 3 2021, 12:28 PM
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#4
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Member Group: Members Posts: 435 Joined: 22-August 16 From: St Augustine, FL Member No.: 20,326 Region Association: South East States |
I just received a new rubber as well. Haven’t started yet but here’s some videos that they suggested me https://www.dropbox.com/sh/753oghdf1qg4h03/...oKSQOzj_qa?dl=0 Thank you, I have watched this several times before and after my attempts to install. |
Morph914 |
Apr 3 2021, 12:30 PM
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#5
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Member Group: Members Posts: 435 Joined: 22-August 16 From: St Augustine, FL Member No.: 20,326 Region Association: South East States |
I did this about a year ago, work from the top down, fit the curve in first and don’t stretch it, eventually there should be extra that you will trim at the bottom. Take your time, tape the edges. Your photo shows that the top corner is not installed correctly, the edge of the rubber should be perpendicular to the ground so the roof weatherstripping butts up against it. Exactly, if the piece fit up into the curved area it would pull that piece down into the proper location. |
Garland |
Apr 3 2021, 02:30 PM
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#6
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Restoration Fanatic Group: Members Posts: 1,325 Joined: 8-January 04 From: ......Michigan...... Member No.: 1,535 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I think when I did mine I left the center part off the windshield frame, fitted the verticals first, then stretched the horizontal across. It was a tight fit. Also made sure the channels in the chrome trim of the A pillars we’re the correct width.
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forrestkhaag |
Apr 3 2021, 05:36 PM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 935 Joined: 21-April 14 From: Scottsdale, Arizona Member No.: 17,273 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I did this fix very recently and found that there is a small tab or blade of metal on the body at the two channel tops that became my starting point for installation. I pushed the 914 Rubber piece onto that tab, (and there may be a screw involved on some cars) and then proceeded to manhandle the corners into their correct fit.
The middle top of the seal was dangling as were the two channel pieces at that point but the two corners were tight and felt and looked rightish. I used a mixture of fruity soap, hand lotion, green liquid dish soap (color matters) and beer to lube the vertical channels and me and then pushed the interior side into the channel inch by inch with a well rounded 9" long plastic tool (used in the Tiffany method of stained glass/ copper foil artwork). Then with the careful application of more and more beer, and a careful dousing of the lube recipe noted herein, i pushed the exterior side of the channel-rubber into the aluminum channel. From the factory the aluminum channel is crimped to trap the factory seal so gently pry open that part of the channel or you will not get the vertical all in. Lastly, dont have any more beer and get out your new sharp 4" long blade and clamp it in vice grips, dip it in your lube solution and gently saw off the extra seal at the bottom AND NOTE HOW THE DOOR CLOSES TO FIND THE PERFECT ANGLE FOR THE BOTTOM CUT. Sidebar: If you screw it up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif) , 914 Rubber has more for sale............ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
windforfun |
Apr 3 2021, 08:11 PM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,766 Joined: 17-December 07 From: Blackhawk, CA Member No.: 8,476 Region Association: None |
Be patient & take another look at the problem.
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Morph914 |
Apr 3 2021, 08:45 PM
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#9
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Member Group: Members Posts: 435 Joined: 22-August 16 From: St Augustine, FL Member No.: 20,326 Region Association: South East States |
I did this fix very recently and found that there is a small tab or blade of metal on the body at the two channel tops that became my starting point for installation. I pushed the 914 Rubber piece onto that tab, (and there may be a screw involved on some cars) and then proceeded to manhandle the corners into their correct fit. The middle top of the seal was dangling as were the two channel pieces at that point but the two corners were tight and felt and looked rightish. I used a mixture of fruity soap, hand lotion, green liquid dish soap (color matters) and beer to lube the vertical channels and me and then pushed the interior side into the channel inch by inch with a well rounded 9" long plastic tool (used in the Tiffany method of stained glass/ copper foil artwork). Then with the careful application of more and more beer, and a careful dousing of the lube recipe noted herein, i pushed the exterior side of the channel-rubber into the aluminum channel. From the factory the aluminum channel is crimped to trap the factory seal so gently pry open that part of the channel or you will not get the vertical all in. Lastly, dont have any more beer and get out your new sharp 4" long blade and clamp it in vice grips, dip it in your lube solution and gently saw off the extra seal at the bottom AND NOTE HOW THE DOOR CLOSES TO FIND THE PERFECT ANGLE FOR THE BOTTOM CUT. Sidebar: If you screw it up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif) , 914 Rubber has more for sale............ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Beer! This is what was missing. I’ll try this method before my next attempt. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) Honestly though, I have done all the things that have been mentioned. I had the top started and the interior lip in all the way down and started on the exterior side and the top opens up or pushes out like in the picture. I think I might train the part to make the bend at the top by fastening to a pipe and heating. And beer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
Mikey914 |
Apr 4 2021, 04:24 AM
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#10
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The rubber man Group: Members Posts: 12,622 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None |
The rubber can only be molded when it's in it's raw form. The heat may make it slightly more pliable, but it's effect is minimal.
The key is doing the sides 1st starting at the top block. Using liquid hand soap Get the back side in 1st by rotating it and pushing in. Slide the block onto the metal "tab". Then push the front rubber lip in by compressing it with a large flat tool You can use a large screw driver if you are careful. This will allow you to put pressure on it. Make sure the next inch or so is engaged in the back and repeat. Also there is a small screw on the inside block of all cars (or at least there should be). You may still have it there if you didn't unscrew as it will break away easily on old brittle seals. Remove this screw and reuse it to install the new seal as it holds the blocks in the corners. For the top start in the center and push on. Soapy water will help here too. Don't pull to one side or the other as you can stretch it while installing and can wind up with too much material if you push hard enough. If you do no problem as you can pull off and start again. It's just best to get it right the 1st time as there is a metal clip internally that holds it on. You will be loosening the clip if you remove and reinstall. Hope this helps Our Wiki page got screwed up and we are having to rebuild it now. Otherwise all this information for install would be on it and I could just point you to it. Mark |
Morph914 |
Apr 4 2021, 11:33 AM
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#11
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Member Group: Members Posts: 435 Joined: 22-August 16 From: St Augustine, FL Member No.: 20,326 Region Association: South East States |
The rubber can only be molded when it's in it's raw form. The heat may make it slightly more pliable, but it's effect is minimal. The key is doing the sides 1st starting at the top block. Using liquid hand soap Get the back side in 1st by rotating it and pushing in. Slide the block onto the metal "tab". Then push the front rubber lip in by compressing it with a large flat tool You can use a large screw driver if you are careful. This will allow you to put pressure on it. Make sure the next inch or so is engaged in the back and repeat. Also there is a small screw on the inside block of all cars (or at least there should be). You may still have it there if you didn't unscrew as it will break away easily on old brittle seals. Remove this screw and reuse it to install the new seal as it holds the blocks in the corners. For the top start in the center and push on. Soapy water will help here too. Don't pull to one side or the other as you can stretch it while installing and can wind up with too much material if you push hard enough. If you do no problem as you can pull off and start again. It's just best to get it right the 1st time as there is a metal clip internally that holds it on. You will be loosening the clip if you remove and reinstall. Hope this helps Our Wiki page got screwed up and we are having to rebuild it now. Otherwise all this information for install would be on it and I could just point you to it. Mark I have had success in getting the backside interior lip into the grove using soft soap but it will not stay in at the bend even after getting the exterior lip started. Once I release pressure it simply pops out of the track at the bend. My seal has a hard piece inside that is about 2” long on the left side and smaller on the right side at the exact spot where the bend is supposed to happen. It looks like this is where the top blocks was molded to the vertical part of the seal. This is not allowing it to have flexibility to stay put. I am sorry to be a PITA but out of this entire build this piece has so far given me the most grief. I am not a dumbass hack, this should not be this difficult. In the picture, I have marked where the hard piece is inside the rubber. Is this normal? Thanks for taking the time. John |
sb914 |
Apr 4 2021, 11:44 AM
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#12
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Surf Guru Group: Members Posts: 4,292 Joined: 25-November 12 From: Brookings,Oregon Member No.: 15,191 Region Association: Southern California |
I have never been able to put my targa top on since I put in the new seal ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
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zfisher6164 |
Apr 4 2021, 11:53 AM
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#13
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 41 Joined: 19-January 19 From: California Member No.: 22,809 Region Association: None |
See if this helps, the seal went on easier then I had expected
zac http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=339429&hl= |
Mikey914 |
Apr 4 2021, 04:04 PM
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#14
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The rubber man Group: Members Posts: 12,622 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None |
This is not an easy seal to replace. The key is to do it in short sections. Once the back is seated in, push the front in. That holds it. This took me about 2 hours.
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windforfun |
Apr 4 2021, 06:06 PM
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#15
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,766 Joined: 17-December 07 From: Blackhawk, CA Member No.: 8,476 Region Association: None |
I admire your tenacity. My seals are still kosher - old, but still in one piece. I wouldn't touch what you're doing with a ten foot pole. Be patient with the challenge. Can you tell I used to be a coach?
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Literati914 |
Apr 4 2021, 07:48 PM
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#16
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,396 Joined: 16-November 06 From: Dallas, TX Member No.: 7,222 Region Association: Southwest Region |
@Mikey914 - can you please address whether the hard internal structure is normal where Morph's picture indicates it to be? . |
Midway |
Apr 5 2021, 06:16 AM
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#17
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Member Group: Members Posts: 75 Joined: 3-October 16 From: Albany Western Australia Member No.: 20,461 Region Association: None |
I have never been able to put my targa top on since I put in the new seal ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Mine was difficult also. I checked carefully to see if I had installed it correctly. To my mind, I had, so I used some silicon spray and that helped. |
windforfun |
Apr 5 2021, 07:09 PM
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#18
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,766 Joined: 17-December 07 From: Blackhawk, CA Member No.: 8,476 Region Association: None |
Let sleeping dogs sleep. Some things are best left alone. Perfectionism can be a curse.
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Mikey914 |
Apr 5 2021, 10:49 PM
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#19
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The rubber man Group: Members Posts: 12,622 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None |
@Mikey914 - can you please address whether the hard internal structure is normal where Morph's picture indicates it to be? . The hard internal structure is the top section. No metal or internal structure there. |
Morph914 |
Apr 6 2021, 10:09 AM
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#20
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Member Group: Members Posts: 435 Joined: 22-August 16 From: St Augustine, FL Member No.: 20,326 Region Association: South East States |
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