Hell hole, where do I start?, Hell hole from u no where. Options

[Jwjwjw]

I’m getting ready to start this project. What is the first few steps?

Build a jig? Any recommendations?
Remove the engine?
?
?
?

Need advice from the wealth of intelligence from this forum please.

Thanks Jeff

[sreyemj]

I’m getting ready to start this project. What is the first few steps?

Build a jig? Any recommendations?
Remove the engine?
?
?
?

Need advice from the wealth of intelligence from this forum please.

Thanks Jeff

Add door braces to the car, and then cut out everything that is too far gone. Then you can start fabricating or buying replacement pieces and welding them in. Your car looks like a real challenge, might be worth buying a more solid stripped tub to start with.

[Galen]

I would pull the engine step one. Get that thing out of the way. Next, I would clean everything up as best as you can to see what you are dealing with. Finally, I would start with a small, isolated rust spot...cut and weld in patch. Get your feet wet and build some confidence.

Here is my project, hope some of the pics help.

rust repair

Remember it is only metal...cut and weld. You can do it one patch at a time!

Galen

[Superhawk996]

Read the other threads on massive rust repairs.

Jeff Hail's is a classic
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=76791

Brent Brock's is a very recent succsss story that just got back on the road a couple weeks ago. Good example of a car that probably should have been scrapped but looks showroom fresh now.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=307290

There are literally dozens of these build threads on the forum

My personal advice would be to buy as much complete metal as you can. Floor pans, longs, rear bulkheads, etc. Don't lose track of the need for structural integrity for both performance as well as crash worthiness. It's not just about fixing "holes".

Rule #1 of work like this - you can't weld to rust.

[mepstein]

Read the other threads on massive rust repairs.

Jeff Hail's is a classic
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=76791

Brent Brock's is a very recent succsss story that just got back on the road a couple weeks ago. Good example of a car that probably should have been scrapped but looks showroom fresh now.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=307290

There are literally dozens of these build threads on the forum

My personal advice would be to buy as much complete metal as you can. Floor pans, longs, rear bulkheads, etc. Don't lose track of the need for structural integrity for both performance as well as crash worthiness. It's not just about fixing "holes".

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) read, read, read. There's an old but good thread, digging into hell.
Also, buy some some good PPE. Protect your face, eyes, lungs and hands. You will probably be using an angle grinder and the proper safety equipment is way cheaper than a trip to the ER. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[bbrock]

Maybe start by calling a priest? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

- I second reading Jeff Hail's thread. In fact, read all of the builds in the builds and restoration forum.

- Next, strip the car starting with getting that engine out of there. Take lots of pics as you disassemble and label them so you have good references when you reassemble later. Get plenty of zip lock backs and sharpies to bag and label parts as you take them off.

- Get the tub level and secure. A Celette bench is the gold standard but lots of examples of DIY dollies and fixtures in the threads.

- Print copies of these dimension specs and tape them to the car, whiteboard, or shop wall. Use them often. http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims.php
http://www.914world.com/specs/underdims.php Jeff Hail's thread also has useful dimensions.

- Brace the door openings with adjustable braces. IMO, the best ones allow doors installed while braces are on. That let's you dial in dimensions and gaps very well while replacing structural members.

- Start cutting and welding (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)

[Shivers]

Somewhere on here are the proper measurements you'll want to go by for bracing the car before dis-assembly of the tub. Like they said it's just metal...Like a big jig-saw puzzle that you weld together.

[Jwjwjw]

Thanks for all the excellent advise. I have worked on a few rusty British and an Alfa Romeo spider before so I do have some experience. I know it will be tested. That’s the part where we grow right? Haha. I am finishing up a friends Escalade rust now. Then I plan on starting this project. I am retired so hopefully that will help me have more time to dedicate to this project. I’ll post pictures as I go once I start.

I have been looking at some of the other threads of rebuilds.

Thanks for all your suggestions.

Jeff

[930cabman]

You might start drinking .... heavily

[BillJ]

what does the rest look like? If this is a very rusty chassis there are reasonably affordable starting points that may be better

[brant]

what does the rest look like? If this is a very rusty chassis there are reasonably affordable starting points that may be better

I agree

This is going to be a lot of work and 10k in parts
It might be worth finding a 10k driver that doesn’t need rust repair
The time saved could be used on maintenance

[Jonathan Livesay]

I’m getting ready to start this project. What is the first few steps?

Need advice from the wealth of intelligence from this forum please.

Thanks Jeff

[mbseto]

1) Grab the chassis measurements diagram from this site and make all those measurements. That itself could be a go/nogo moment. Take pictures of every part of the body - I wish I had taken many more pics.

nth-ing read up on all the classic build threads. Helps formulate an overall strategy. Start your own build thread!

2) Build a dolly and door braces. This is a good chance to polish up the welding skills.

3) Start buying metal and cutting and welding. Again, agree with the emphasis on safety gear. For a long haul project, long term effects of dust and vapor, loud noise, etc. can be just as bad as losing a chunk of you in one quick accident.

[jaredmcginness]

Fixable! Pull the motor. Gives you the extra room to work.

Hire a chiropractor for the few days following. Getting in and out is no fun.

[roblav1]

A rotisserie is massively helpful. And when the car is done, you can sell it at 2/3 the cost you paid.

[rjames]

A rotisserie is massively helpful. And when the car is done, you can sell it at 2/3 the cost you paid.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

Seriously though, always happy to see another car get saved. As others have said, more pictures please!

[bbrock]

Ignore the naysayers. We crazies understand the satisfaction of an "impossible" rustoration. I was advised to scrap my car when I stared. I put about $30K into it all total, including original purchase price. Did everything myself except machining on the engine, and now it is insured for an agreed value of $50K What's funny is that looking back, the rust repair was neither the most expensive, nor the hardest part of the restoration, but it was the most satisfying. But do be realistic. Sounds like this is not your first rodeo so you are ahead of the game. Looking forward to seeing the progress.

[Jonathan Livesay]

A rotisserie is massively helpful. And when the car is done, you can sell it at 2/3 the cost you paid.

Do you mean the car or the rotisserie?

[roblav1]

Ha hs! I meant the rotisserie!

[bkrantz]

A rotisserie is massively helpful. And when the car is done, you can sell it at 2/3 the cost you paid.

But never put a body on a rotisserie until it is fulling braced and all the dimensions have been confirmed.