Correcting the rear wheel to fender offset. |
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Correcting the rear wheel to fender offset. |
Jonny Retrofit |
Sep 16 2021, 12:11 AM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 23 Joined: 27-September 15 From: UK Member No.: 19,211 Region Association: None |
Hi Guys,
We are running 8 x 15 Fuchs on the back of our narrow body '14. With careful tyre choice and a mild fender pull this works great on the passenger side of the car. On the driver side, however, there is 5mm less clearance which appears to be a common issue. The wheels look great and I want to keep them so have been thinking about how to correct this offset. One option would be to modify the trailing arm front pivot tube. E.g. shorten on the inboard side and lengthen outboard, bringing the arm in by 5mm. Any thoughts on this approach with respect to the suspension geometry? The only thing I can think of is that the damper would be at a slightly different angle but I can't see 5mm across the length of the damper making that much difference. We don't have a rear ARB. Pretty sure the driveshaft has enough slack to cope with the 5mm reduced distance. Thoughts welcome! |
Jonny Retrofit |
Sep 16 2021, 10:45 AM
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#2
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 23 Joined: 27-September 15 From: UK Member No.: 19,211 Region Association: None |
Just to be clear, I don’t want to narrow the arms - agree that is a big job. My plan was to cut and shut the front tube part of the arm where the spindle goes through, thereby offsetting the arm inboard by 5mm. This would not be that hard to do and would have the same effect as moving the mounting point (which I can’t do because of already welded in strengthening)
The car is a 300HP EV conversion with a Tesla drive unit. Has some power but it is also heavy for a 914 at 1250kg. I need the car to squat to get the power down. Have already got a fair amount of camber. |
mrholland2 |
Sep 16 2021, 11:12 AM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 750 Joined: 7-September 11 From: Santa Maria,CA Member No.: 13,531 Region Association: Central California |
Just to be clear, I don’t want to narrow the arms - agree that is a big job. My plan was to cut and shut the front tube part of the arm where the spindle goes through, thereby offsetting the arm inboard by 5mm. This would not be that hard to do and would have the same effect as moving the mounting point (which I can’t do because of already welded in strengthening) The car is a 300HP EV conversion with a Tesla drive unit. Has some power but it is also heavy for a 914 at 1250kg. I need the car to squat to get the power down. Have already got a fair amount of camber. Is this the one from the TV show?? |
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