Sand blaster chassis then what ?, What would do next ? Options

[914GTSTI]

Going to have my chassis sand blasted. What next steps do you guy's do ?
Randy

[friethmiller]

Paint with epoxy primer as soon as possible.

[SirAndy]

Going to have my chassis sand blasted.

Don't ...

I had my chassis sandblasted and 15+ years later it's still seeping sand from the seams.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...st&p=711752
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Any other media would be better than sand.
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-179-1151215349.jpg)

[sechszylinder]

Going to have my chassis sand blasted. What next steps do you guy's do ?
Randy

I wouldn‘t do that again.
Sand blasted my GT tribute project car and 10 years later I‘m able to find sand in that car.
Blank metal should be painted with epoxy primer …

BR

Benno

[Cairo94507]

Do a soda blast- anything but sand. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[930cabman]

I have considered spot blasting my 914.

If/when sand gets into openings and crevice's it will add weight and hold moisture

[theer]

Never tried it myself, but dry-ice blasting sounds great. No sand, no nothing, just evaporates off.

[Luke M]

Going to have my chassis sand blasted. What next steps do you guy's do ?
Randy

I went through this last summer with my brothers 914-6 conv. I was going to do my factory 6 right after his. Once I saw the process I changed my mind. It's a mess and that's putting it kindly. My brothers car was wet blasted with light grit sand but it still warped the door skins and trunk lids. I watched the guy do the the whole car. Took his time and kept his distance from the panels. There was still warping. Not to mention the sand was everywhere and I mean everywhere. We taped up and capped a lot of the openings but that didn't help. We started blowing out sand right after it dried and still to this day you'll find sand spots. We blew out the longs and the whole car for days prior to sanding and epoxy primer. If you plan on doing the work get ready cause it's a time thing too. The chassis will start to flash rust and you'll be sanding away before you even spray any primer. Have a schedule set and stick with it. The guy that did our blast used a rust prevention chemical and it held for 4 to 5 days. After that the panels flashed and had to be sanded.

I've yet to find a better way to strip my chassis. I'm not dipping the chassis so that's out. Vapor blasting maybe but would have to research it more.

Whatever you decide on just give yourself enough time to blast , clean, and prime all within those 4 to 5 days. If not you'll be wishing you never blasted it.
That's my experience with having the blasting done. Maybe others had better luck.

[ssstikircr]

Spend a few bucks get a few different air blower nozzles and wands. Spend a day blowing every crevice and hole you can find. Then epoxy prime everything. Or depending if you have an absolute complete tear down have it dipped instead.

[Superhawk996]

Back in the day I did a combo.

Mostly chemically stripped and wire wheel for all the easy exterior panels. Not sure how well this will work now that the EPA has neutered most chemical strippers.

I did attempt to sand blast a few rust pitted areas. As the others have stated, sand gets in between panels and comes out at the least opportune times. First when painting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) and even years later I still had specks of sand coming out of absurd locations.

Curious to see if anyone has actually used the dry ice blasting with success and without warping panels.

[JmuRiz]

Never tried it myself, but dry-ice blasting sounds great. No sand, no nothing, just evaporates off.

It's great, but $$$

[friethmiller]

Yeah @914GTSTI ,

I had mine glass blasted but didn't use epoxy primer which forced me to re-sand and paint each panel later. What a PITA! Learned a valuable lesson there. The glass grains left in my frame came out over time while on my rotisserie. Unlike other restorations, I pulled about every panel that could come off the car doing rust repair so very little residue/grains remained. I may opt for a different method for my upcoming LE restoration. I'm interested in what others have to say.

[NARP74]

Most of the car shows I watch on TV are dipping them now.

[VaccaRabite]

Don't sand blast. The sand gets everywhere and you won't find all the compacted sand just waiting to collect moisture and rust you from the inside out. Several of the member here can tell you all about that.

Soda works. Dry ice is awesome.

When I did mine I just used stripper pads on a drill. These cars are not that big, and I was able to do it in about 2 days.

Zach

[friethmiller]

Don't sand blast. The sand gets everywhere and you won't find all the compacted sand just waiting to collect moisture and rust you from the inside out. Several of the member here can tell you all about that.

Soda works. Dry ice is awesome.

When I did mine I just used stripper pads on a drill. These cars are not that big, and I was able to do it in about 2 days.

Zach

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This might be what I do this time around.

[914GTSTI]

Ok.
No sand !
Soda ? Maybe.
Dip I will need to look into.

Thanks

[nathanxnathan]

I've been watching Wray Schelin's Proshaper Workshop Youtube channel and he's constantly talking about how sandblasting, even walnut blasting will warp panels and advocates chemical stripping.

I was thinking about pumping something like rust 911 through the longs at the back, but the paper heater tubes seem like they are a problem to do so up front.

I've been spot blasting with glass bead in various areas. It's not as aggressive as sand and I don't think it is going to warp any panels. It does make a mess though.

[bbrock]

Oh goodie! I get to be the contrarian again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I glass blasted my car myself. One of the least fun things a person can spend time doing, but it saved $. I had the car on a rotisserie which really helped rid the car of media. A few hours with shop vac, air hose, and spinning, spinning, spinning, the rotisserie as I worked. I haven't found a grain of media afterward. Not saying it was easy, but I'm not sorry I did it and don't know how I would have gotten the chassis to bare metal without blasting.

Once down to bare metal, treat with Ospho and then epoxy primer. The Ospho kills any rust that might still be lurking, creates a protective coating to prevent flash rust, and it improves adhesion of the epoxy. PPG recommends phosphoric acid treatment to promote adhesion of their DPLF epoxy.

[bkrantz]

Dipping is probably better, but remember that it will destroy the fiber heat tubes inside the longs. That will require some metal surgery to open the longs and replace the tubes.

[mepstein]

Dipping is only good if you e-coat after. Otherwise, all the spot welded seams and empty cavities (think rear suspension consoles) are bare. Theres no way to get regular primer in between spot welded panels. E-coat will get everywhere.