Going to have my chassis sand blasted. What next steps do you guy's do ?
Randy

Paint with epoxy primer as soon as possible.

Don't ...

I had my chassis sandblasted and 15+ years later it's still seeping sand from the seams.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...st&p=711752



Any other media would be better than sand.

I wouldn‘t do that again.
Sand blasted my GT tribute project car and 10 years later I‘m able to find sand in that car.
Blank metal should be painted with epoxy primer …

BR

Benno

Do a soda blast- anything but sand.

I have considered spot blasting my 914.

If/when sand gets into openings and crevice's it will add weight and hold moisture

Never tried it myself, but dry-ice blasting sounds great. No sand, no nothing, just evaporates off.

I went through this last summer with my brothers 914-6 conv. I was going to do my factory 6 right after his. Once I saw the process I changed my mind. It's a mess and that's putting it kindly. My brothers car was wet blasted with light grit sand but it still warped the door skins and trunk lids. I watched the guy do the the whole car. Took his time and kept his distance from the panels. There was still warping. Not to mention the sand was everywhere and I mean everywhere. We taped up and capped a lot of the openings but that didn't help. We started blowing out sand right after it dried and still to this day you'll find sand spots. We blew out the longs and the whole car for days prior to sanding and epoxy primer. If you plan on doing the work get ready cause it's a time thing too. The chassis will start to flash rust and you'll be sanding away before you even spray any primer. Have a schedule set and stick with it. The guy that did our blast used a rust prevention chemical and it held for 4 to 5 days. After that the panels flashed and had to be sanded.

I've yet to find a better way to strip my chassis. I'm not dipping the chassis so that's out. Vapor blasting maybe but would have to research it more.

Whatever you decide on just give yourself enough time to blast , clean, and prime all within those 4 to 5 days. If not you'll be wishing you never blasted it.
That's my experience with having the blasting done. Maybe others had better luck.

Spend a few bucks get a few different air blower nozzles and wands. Spend a day blowing every crevice and hole you can find. Then epoxy prime everything. Or depending if you have an absolute complete tear down have it dipped instead.

Back in the day I did a combo.

Mostly chemically stripped and wire wheel for all the easy exterior panels. Not sure how well this will work now that the EPA has neutered most chemical strippers.

I did attempt to sand blast a few rust pitted areas. As the others have stated, sand gets in between panels and comes out at the least opportune times. First when painting and even years later I still had specks of sand coming out of absurd locations.

Curious to see if anyone has actually used the dry ice blasting with success and without warping panels.

It's great, but $$$

Yeah @914GTSTI ,

I had mine glass blasted but didn't use epoxy primer which forced me to re-sand and paint each panel later. What a PITA! Learned a valuable lesson there. The glass grains left in my frame came out over time while on my rotisserie. Unlike other restorations, I pulled about every panel that could come off the car doing rust repair so very little residue/grains remained. I may opt for a different method for my upcoming LE restoration. I'm interested in what others have to say.

Most of the car shows I watch on TV are dipping them now.

Don't sand blast. The sand gets everywhere and you won't find all the compacted sand just waiting to collect moisture and rust you from the inside out. Several of the member here can tell you all about that.

Soda works. Dry ice is awesome.

When I did mine I just used stripper pads on a drill. These cars are not that big, and I was able to do it in about 2 days.

Zach

This might be what I do this time around.

Ok.
No sand !
Soda ? Maybe.
Dip I will need to look into.

Thanks

I've been watching Wray Schelin's Proshaper Workshop Youtube channel and he's constantly talking about how sandblasting, even walnut blasting will warp panels and advocates chemical stripping.

I was thinking about pumping something like rust 911 through the longs at the back, but the paper heater tubes seem like they are a problem to do so up front.

I've been spot blasting with glass bead in various areas. It's not as aggressive as sand and I don't think it is going to warp any panels. It does make a mess though.

Oh goodie! I get to be the contrarian again.

I glass blasted my car myself. One of the least fun things a person can spend time doing, but it saved $. I had the car on a rotisserie which really helped rid the car of media. A few hours with shop vac, air hose, and spinning, spinning, spinning, the rotisserie as I worked. I haven't found a grain of media afterward. Not saying it was easy, but I'm not sorry I did it and don't know how I would have gotten the chassis to bare metal without blasting.

Once down to bare metal, treat with Ospho and then epoxy primer. The Ospho kills any rust that might still be lurking, creates a protective coating to prevent flash rust, and it improves adhesion of the epoxy. PPG recommends phosphoric acid treatment to promote adhesion of their DPLF epoxy.

Dipping is probably better, but remember that it will destroy the fiber heat tubes inside the longs. That will require some metal surgery to open the longs and replace the tubes.

Dipping is only good if you e-coat after. Otherwise, all the spot welded seams and empty cavities (think rear suspension consoles) are bare. Theres no way to get regular primer in between spot welded panels. E-coat will get everywhere.

I think it helps that you can turn the car upside down. Repeated compressed air and vacuuming help to be sure. Certain areas though... I'll be pounding on the car and look, say in the fuel tank area, and see that glass bead is coming out of a support/closed off area that I didn't think was open. There are so many places for it to get stuck in.

I will say that the plusses of spot glass bead blasting keep me going back to it despite the havoc it brings. I think if the car is stripped and you are going deep there's a place for it.

This is a super important point. This was probably one advantage to spending 3 years repairing EXTENSIVE rust. By the time I got to blasting, I knew ever hole and crevice in the car and knew all the places that needed to be blown and sucked out. Every structural member is hollow inside and designed to allow condensation and water to drain out. That means there is a way for blasting media to get in, and a way to get it out with the right tools.

I should also add that I live any a very low humidity area so the media didn't cake up. I doubt I would have had the same success in a high humidity place.

Gotta love the east coast

No joke, the outside of my windows are foggy today...crazy

And the inside of your car is rusty!

I had the bottom of my project done with a water/glass bead blast. It was very economical and the result was better than expected. Click to view attachment

20 years as a painter and then 20 as the local paint guy.

1.Rust gets almost everywhere, sand gets almost everywhere, acid almost gets everywhere.

2.The only people who had a chance at this not rusting back were the Germans 50 years ago when the metal was still pristine. If you have a 10 year old pickup truck you know about rust between two pieces of metal.

3. I stripped my outer panels with liquid and mechanical. Don't sandblast outer panels. You will warp them. The inner panels I did a combo of liquid, wire brush and mechanical.then sand blasting.

4. The Eastwood thing works great on truck frame rails. Not these body panels.

5. it either time or dollars,

6. blowing the sand out takes time. less with two airlines.Less with a spit. I spun mine every night and still got sand. I did a drag car years ago and everytime the wheels come back down, sand falls.

How much is dipping? you MUST get the primer dipped also.

Kevin

Kevin,

Sounds as the voice of experience, there is no easy answer. I can recall blasting a pre-A speedster in the early 1970's with silica (without a mask) and there was sand everywhere, probably still is