Glasurit 22 Line?, Looking for experience or availability Options

[Van B]

Seems like this would be the best hope of replicating the nuance of my L13M Saturn yellow that was badly missed with its previous paint job. But, I can’t seem to find anyone who can source it or much less has experience with it.

Anyone out there in 914 World have experience, advice, or sourcing tips they care to pass along? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/yellow914.JPG)

[Van B]

Here’s a link for folks that are curious:

https://refinish.basf.us/products/22-line-s...2-8-lbsgal-voc/
https://refinish.basf.us/products/22-line-s...3-5-lbsgal-voc/

[StarBear]

Here’s a link for folks that are curious:

https://refinish.basf.us/brands/catalog/

Maybe Paintscratch.com?
I think there was a thread a few weeks ago about PPG's paint match program.

[Van B]

I’m looking for enough to do a repaint… trying to assess feasibility while I have an opportunity with the car torn apart.

[wonkipop]

i take it you are only going so far as prep but not spraying it yourself.

you will be looking for a resto shop to paint it if things in USA are anything like here.

they are up for doing old school single stage paints.

mike does it here in our workshop but only for smaller area repairs on the owners collection. the couple of full resprays that have been done were sent out for the painting to an old guy (like older than me and he should be retired but he still works). he has a paint booth. he is set up with a J car restorer. these days he just does the final paint, other younger guys do the prep for him.

most painters now connected to panel shops only want to deal in base/clear.
bit of a problem.

environmental issues are part of the pressure.

good luck. bound to be someone nearby to you but you might have to search to find them.

[Van B]

All I do is search for things these days lol…. I really took Houston for granted I’ve come to realize. Everything was there, and I never took advantage.

Moaning aside, I might spray myself depending on how able I would be to source the paint system. That copper manifold I built is drying air like a champ. And I could build a murder room in the garage.

But if I can’t get the stuff or its a nightmare to work with, there’s little point. Honestly though, I don’t see how that would be possible. Single stage is a cake walk to paint as long as you know the reducers to use for your climate.

[Superhawk996]

Is the question about single stage Urethane or more about that brand specifically?

Depending on how long since the car was originally painted you’re going to find differences in both color (due to sun fade) and EPA mandated low VOC reformulation. I’ve run into both on my 914 project and on other projects as well.

On the whole, Urethane is no big deal to work with other than the need to be way more careful about PPE.

Other than that, it comes down to finding a distributor and following the tech sheet for mixing, underlying paint compatibility, etc.

BASF is major player in paint business - should be able to find someone supporting it.

Note: I’m trying to navigate their site and can’t seem to find the tech sheets other than SDS material safety so less than impressive on that account

Overall - I wouldn’t mess with it unless you spray the whole car. Blending - color matching a spot repair against aged paint is a black art. Once you are in for a whole car respray - honestly I would move to PPG for ease of acquisition, ease of finding tech sheets, ease of support.

[Aerostatwv]

I ordered a can of Zambezi Green from https://www.automotivetouchup.com/ and it was spot on. I used it in the engine compartment when I replaced the battery tray and engine seal holder. Both the color and clear coat laid down smooth. You can get it in a paint pen all the way up to a ready to spray gallon.

[wonkipop]

i think @Superhawk996 is right. if you know what you are doing urethane based paint is fine. i don't paint. but i get it all ready for mike to do. he paints when he has to at the end of the day and we clear the hell out. everything gets covered in plastic sheets. he gets all rigged up with resirators etc. we don't have a paint booth or room. we have thought about knocking one up. but mostly its individual panels get painted in the back corner so its not really worth the trouble yet.

i got a feeling the falcon ute might have been done with urethane. i can ask.
two coats with about 20 minutes between.

its only a misery if it starts going wrong for some reason on the first coat. contaminants or something affecting the paint. humidity whatever. even temp can mess you up down here if it gets too hot or too cold on the day when its planned to happen.

its toxic as hell which is why i think a lot of professional painters are not excited about doing it anymore. but the exposure from one job with the right gear on to protect isn't going to worry you. its the guys who have to do it day in and day out that really want to avoid it these days.

[Van B]

@Superhawk996 @wonkipop that brand specifically is really what I was after. But it does help confirming that the VOC regs do effect color presentation. The paint on my car was definitely a poor backyard spray job in a Georgia summer... Awful. And now that I've found some spots of adhesion failure in addition to the Bondo job on the rear bumper, this seems like the best opportunity I will have.

I bought the best full face respirator that 3M has (FF-800 series) and their VOC specific filters since I already planned on doing a full underbody treatment with the Dynatron stuff.

But back to the original question, I was hoping someone could tell me how well the 22 line matches up with OE color specs and where they bought from. As none of the local dealers from the BASF website actually carry the product.

[wonkipop]

an aside on base/clear coat cars with some of the work i have been picking away at over the last 2/3 years is that it seems to allow a lot more spider rust to start up under it.

i've been doing a bit of rust delay semi temporary work on the workshop owners 84 t-bird. its a heap of sh$t but still kind of interesting and charming in its own way.
still lhd. he picked it up for peanuts. kind of a turd gold colour and clear coat original paint. been working all around the back window and had the trunk lid off. back to bare metal on the trunk lid. where the pinstripe decals ran across the lid and where the badges were double sided taped on some pretty good spider rust was really beginning to take hold. as well as from the usual odd chip from stone damage etc. we reckon the decals and the badges were trapping moisture or preventing the paint from breathing some how. quite noticeable. i should have taken some pictures.

i noticed the same thing on the front hood of the my citroen xm. its a 99. clear coat paint.
resprayed the hood because the original clear coat was failing. took it back to bare metal. lots and lots of spider rust forming from stone chips. some were starting to take hold.

the falcon ute really had none of that. a hell of a lot less spider rust under its original factory paint. plain white, commercial vehicle paint job -pre clear coat days. even though its a 94 model.

just an interesting thing i have noticed. two stage modern paint is not i think anything like as durable or strong as the older stuff.

[wonkipop]

@Superhawk996 @wonkipop that brand specifically is really what I was after. But it does help confirming that the VOC regs do effect color presentation. The paint on my car was definitely a poor backyard spray job in a Georgia summer... Awful. And now that I've found some spots of adhesion failure in addition to the Bondo job on the rear bumper, this seems like the best opportunity I will have.

I bought the best full face respirator that 3M has (FF-800 series) and their VOC specific filters since I already planned on doing a full underbody treatment with the Dynatron stuff.

But back to the original question, I was hoping someone could tell me how well the 22 line matches up with OE color specs and where they bought from. As none of the local dealers from the BASF website actually carry the product.

i'll ask mike for you. i am at the workshop tomorrow to try and put the renault back together. all the timing belt parts should be there -- "hopefully". the old bloke dennis who does the full spray jobs has done lots of work on 911 restos over the last 20 - 30 years. for pretty fussy farkers. he is probably going to know what the best match for original factory paint is. i wouldn't mind betting it is glasurit.

you could try an email to porsche germany. they have a resto shop. ask them what paint they use. they will probably reply. whatever it is its bound to be "eco" given the way germany is these days on all that stuff. but maybe they have a skunk works with locked doors to keep the enviro inspectors out.

[Superhawk996]

I bought the best full face respirator that 3M has (FF-800 series) and their VOC specific filters since I already planned on doing a full underbody treatment with the Dynatron stuff.

Full face is great but be aware that isocyanate in urethane has no smell so you can’t tell when VOC filters have saturated with isocyanate. Best plan of action is brand new filters every time you spray urethane. Some of the new urethane claims to be isocyanate free or reduced. See tech sheets to know for sure.

I eventually went forced air full hood but that was because what originally was a “let’s try this stuff” turned into using for pretty much every paint job I’ve done lately. Urethane flows out wonderfully and has a really nice gloss even without clear coat.

[Superhawk996]

Comparison between two brands PPG (on left) vs Sikkens (remnant from original paint on right) and pre EPA (Sikkens) vs reformulation of VOC and pigments (the PPG)

Both are supposed to be same color code BMW #138 - model year 1991

I had better luck having PPG do a color match to a painted / faded headlamp cover which actually came back as Honda R90 (a motorcycle color I think). I had the R90 mixed and I think it actually was a better match when sprayed.

Just be aware that no matter what you have mixed it probably won’t match 100%.

[nivekdodge]

I don't know where to start. in it's Maryland stores BASF won't stock 22 line because of VOC levels. You'd probably have to get it from out of state. Tints go bad sitting on the shelf, so since not many shops paint everyday with SS, it doesn't move. Not many jobbers keep it on the shelf. Not to mention driving out of state to get it.

What are you trying to match? is it the right color? Rust spider webbing under something is bad primer. color doesn't keep rust away.

Find a color you like. Find a painter. Have him recommend what paint he wants to use.

Not trying to make anyone mad, just saving you time and money.

Kevin

[wonkipop]

I don't know where to start. in it's Maryland stores BASF won't stock 22 line because of VOC levels. You'd probably have to get it from out of state. Tints go bad sitting on the shelf, so since not many shops paint everyday with SS, it doesn't move. Not many jobbers keep it on the shelf. Not to mention driving out of state to get it.

What are you trying to match? is it the right color? Rust spider webbing under something is bad primer. color doesn't keep rust away.

Find a color you like. Find a painter. Have him recommend what paint he wants to use.

Not trying to make anyone mad, just saving you time and money.

Kevin

interesting about the primer for spider web.
ford t-bird is ungalv. like the ford falcon.
ford australia must have had a much better factory primer and application quality than ford USA.
both were areas of factory paint taken off.
i was really surprised by the t bird. we look at the rest of it now with "x-ray" vision and we are not seeing a pretty picture.

[Van B]

I don't know where to start. in it's Maryland stores BASF won't stock 22 line because of VOC levels. You'd probably have to get it from out of state. Tints go bad sitting on the shelf, so since not many shops paint everyday with SS, it doesn't move. Not many jobbers keep it on the shelf. Not to mention driving out of state to get it.

What are you trying to match? is it the right color? Rust spider webbing under something is bad primer. color doesn't keep rust away.

Find a color you like. Find a painter. Have him recommend what paint he wants to use.

Not trying to make anyone mad, just saving you time and money.

Kevin

PA will sell the good stuff right? I looked up state VOC laws and PA is on the bad boy list with the anti-cow fart crowd. I’d be willing to make the drive if there is a place that will sell it.

[Can-Am]

I think you'll have better luck approximating your original color by finding some part of the car that hasn't been resprayed. Like inside a headlight cover, bottom of the hood or rear lid. Clean it, polish it and bring it to a paint store for a match. Not computer match but, by eye. Finding someone to do this can be a job in itself.
If you can find a local to you Glasurit supplier and they have or can get the current formula then get them to mix you a pint or 1/2 pt to make sure you like it. Yellows and red toners are some of the most expensive. Start puckering now!
The toners Glasurit had in the 70s have been regulated out of use several times over by now which is why I think you should have some mixed to look at the current color formulation.
I'm not at all surprised by the two very different reds for the same code. I think that 138 is called Cinnabar red. I remember it being very translucent and hard to match. Looks great though.....

[Van B]

@Superhawk996 . I realized just how far off the current paint job is when I was removing all the 50yr old ziebart. The paint underneath was like new and such a cool color. That slight green tint makes a world of difference.

[nivekdodge]

Closest city on MD?