Need help removing nut that holds shock in place, I've tried heat, a hammer and chisel... Options

[mepstein]

I'm listening. That ball joint tool was the main thing steering me to DIY, but $45 vs $120 is enough to make me change my mind about using Argon for that project.

@mepstein do you know if he has a listing anywhere? or do I just need to find him and send a PM?

I would send him a pm.

[914 RZ-1]

I bought both the tool from JimmyT and the wrench from Bilstein.

Bilstein tool is #E4-MS08/6. It's 47mm between the tabs, about 54.5mm ID (just fit around the shock tube) and 86.5mm OD. It's 4mm thick.

I ended up using a pipe wrench and a friend to get the nut off. It was really tight. I held the strut in the vise to keep it from twisting while he leaned on it with a pipe wrench. I could not get enough torque on the nut by myself, as the strut is awkward to hold and twists, even in a vise. I also bent the Bilstein tool a little. It didn't help that the recesses on the nut were f'd up from me hitting them with a chisel.

The ball joint tool for Jimmy is awesome. I paid $55.36 shipped. I used an air impact and it came right off.
His contact info: jim@tidwell.org

[Van B]

Thank you for posting that up! You just saved me time and money!

[76-914]

Got this adjustable gland nut wrench for $10.50 free shipping.

[mepstein]

Got this adjustable gland nut wrench for $10.50 free shipping.

That looks like a good tool.
I’ve removed dozens of the gland nuts from old struts. Clamp the caliper mounting plate in a vise and twist the nut off with a large pipe wrench. Add some heat with a torch if it’s really stuck on there. Works ever time.

[76-914]

Got this adjustable gland nut wrench for $10.50 free shipping.

That looks like a good tool.
I’ve removed dozens of the gland nuts from old struts. Clamp the caliper mounting plate in a vise and twist the nut off with a large pipe wrench. Add some heat with a torch if it’s really stuck on there. Works ever time.

Being a plumbing contractor, I too have always done this but at this price I couldn't pass it up. Besides the fact that I'm a certified tool whore. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[VaccaRabite]

Things change of course over time, but the school of thought on this was that you used a pipe wrench to take it off, and the special tool to reinstall.

The issue being that the special tool was not hardened enough and and a really stuck on nut would wipe it out. The pipe wrench will put marks in the nut, but it will get the damned thing off.

I just have a big assed pipe wrench from when I needed to do it.

Zach

[76-914]

Things change of course over time, but the school of thought on this was that you used a pipe wrench to take it off, and the special tool to reinstall.

The issue being that the special tool was not hardened enough and and a really stuck on nut would wipe it out. The pipe wrench will put marks in the nut, but it will get the damned thing off.

I just have a big assed pipe wrench from when I needed to do it.

Zach

If it is the big steel one used on Boge's I wouldn't hesitate to use a big pipe wrench. I have them going up to 48" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) . But if it is the aluminum one on the Bilstein insert it would only be a last resort action on my part. A pipe wrench offers incredible grip & torque but impact is more effective and inflicts less damage when loosening corroded bolts and nuts. I would try a blunt cold chisel and large hammer before going to the pipe wrench approach. In order for impact to be effective the part (s) need to be rigidly help in place with no way for them to move when impacted. This is where most people get it wrong. A good example of this is when someone is holding the part in their hand rather than in a vice when striking. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)