2056 rebuild part THREE, GOT Data? Log works 3 Options

[rfinegan]

Here is a link to part one:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...117&hl=2056



I decide my t1 oil pump in my 2056 was doing me no favors with a smaller than ideal OD.
I still had the T4 oil pump from the 2.0 that was doing its job when I had a cam thrust bearing fail /knock, so I decided to pull it a part for inspection.
I will perform some measurements and get it cleaned up, if it turns out to be in good shape.
The pics look like a great core.

[Superhawk996]

Agree - looks like a pretty good core.

Pin the idler shaft.

Mandatory reading:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=699156

[rfinegan]

Great link, this should be a sticky if its not there already

Agree - looks like a pretty good core.

Pin the idler shaft.

Mandatory reading:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=699156

[rfinegan]

Here are come pics of case split and inspections

[rfinegan]

another of the saddle and low pin locator

[rfinegan]

rear thrust again

[rfinegan]

and a video :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJ_iKZHldNk

[DRPHIL914]

so what are your impressions of your observations pictured here? how many miles since it had been rebuilt, it seems like just recently you completed that rebuild?


Phil

[rfinegan]

Phil,
This build and the last build had a total of less that 100 miles the Failure again was the top end intake valves and guides. Ill post pic of the worn out valve guides
The bottom end seemed OK. but erratic oil pressure problems I am sure added to the guides issue

Also The Crank end play had .0045 when assembled and CHECKED
I added the rear main and the play went to zero . Sound like a familiar thread others have seen.... I continued any way thinking the seal was adding the buffer to the clearance. I had howling bear noises and the wear pic on the side of the thrust confirmed it was tight. Looks like new bearings and pump for bottom end I will check the saddles for possible line bore

[rfinegan]

Here is the worst of the intake guide #1. The exhaust guilds are fine at .001 t o .0015
This intake is at .006 to .007. This was only less that 100 miles and were NEW

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7KPNeAiRig

[rfinegan]

I have a new local shop add new intake guides and intake valves if needed

[rfinegan]

My summary of this build:
1) OIL pressure problems
2) Oil type problem ZR1 20w50
3) Temperature problems
4) Bad intake guides

or all the above

When she ran it ran VERY well power, speed no spark knock. FUN
Valvses would stick and dead cylinders till next run

[DRPHIL914]

Phil,
This build and the last build had a total of less that 100 miles the Failure again was the top end intake valves and guides. Ill post pic of the worn out valve guides
The bottom end seemed OK. but erratic oil pressure problems I am sure added to the guides issue

Also The Crank end play had .0045 when assembled and CHECKED
I added the rear main and the play went to zero . Sound like a familiar thread others have seen.... I continued any way thinking the seal was adding the buffer to the clearance. I had howling bear noises and the wear pic on the side of the thrust confirmed it was tight. Looks like new bearings and pump for bottom end I will check the saddles for possible line bore

interesting about the guide wear, and the crank end play. I now have 2500 miles and recently had developed what i think is a RMS leak - again, after replacing it when i did the transmission seals about 10 months ago. So last night i pullted the motor and today will pull of the trans to look at that and im going to check the cranksaft endplay , i have heard that too much play will cause the leak, but maybe itd just a bad VR seal so i got new Ehrling.
am i correct that the crank endplay should be tested with no seal? i might as well check it before i even pull the flywheel, it its in spec i can recheck without new seal,
re-install seal and flywheel and the double check again , correct? lets hope its all still good i am hoping for just a seal replacment. Like you my motor running good. these are new AA head casings with brand new br seats, sterlite valves and new porsche guides with solid spacers etc. 2056 all new KB pistons hastings rings new cylinders etc. - anyway iver been watching and reading your postings . and re-reading since i will also be putting back together the original motor for a stock numbers matching correct build , thats for later. Oh the guy that assembled my short block said wht i have the other OEM heads done by another machine shop the guidse were off some wer too tight and some were too loose and that shjop(eagle machine in atlanta) said they were sourced from Porsche. My new guy made sure the new guides were perfect before installing them both on my old original rebuilt heads and these new AA casting heads on the 2056.

PHil- what is hte proper end play i am looking for for the crankshaft end play?

[Jack Standz]

Crankshaft float s/b .004" plus or minus .001".

One thing to do, to reduce the RMS potential for a leak, is to use the proper installation tool. Got away without using one before for years, but am now convinced of the value now (don't you hate having to drop an engine and transmission to fix a leak?).

Hear's why:

https://gowesty.com/blogs/article-library/f...main-seal-story

Here's the tool:

https://gowesty.com/products/rear-main-seal...a61af&_ss=r

Best wishes for getting her fixed!

[rfinegan]

check in without seal and again once the seal is installed. should be the same.
0.0027 to 0.0051. most shoot for 0.004”
Place the thinnest shim in the center of the three shim pack.

[914sgofast2]

Here is the worst of the intake guide #1. The exhaust guilds are fine at .001 t o .0015
This intake is at .006 to .007. This was only less that 100 miles and were NEW

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7KPNeAiRig

Did the shop that installed the new valves and valve guides fail to ream the guides after the guides were pressed into the heads? Did they mix up the intake and exhaust valve guides? I think the guides are different diameters, like 8 mmm and 9 mm, so they are difficult to tell apart.

[Geezer914]

Rear main seal tool, use a block of wood. Go easy and make sure it's not cocked, flush with the case. End play, shoot for .003.

[porschetub]

Rear main seal tool, use a block of wood. Go easy and make sure it's not cocked, flush with the case. End play, shoot for .003.

Yep that works,I use a small amount of engine oil on the outside of the seal then start it in by hand level then use my soft "dead blow " mallet to tap it in flush with the case,done this for years and never had an issue.
I don't know about the fit of the VR orange seal in a T4 cause I don't use them anymore after experiencing a very poor fit in my 911 engine ,it was so loose I pushed it in by hand (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) the Elring replacement got the mallet treatment and not leaking a I'am sure the VR one would have leaked .
Also make sure the flywheel seal running surface is nice and smooth and lubed up and the o ring area is clean before fitting and lightly oiled.
Front seals don't really give issues unless they are just plain worn out ,if so you end up with a shitty mess in the fan housing ,fan ,cooler and across the barrels,certainly worth cleaning up right,cheers.

[rfinegan]

GREAT info on the rear main seal. ..with mods


https://www.facebook.com/1160006259/videos/5098274283572774/

[rfinegan]

Happy day for a change in the garage

A world member set me up with a 4 post yoke for the engine stand (Thanks Nick)