2056 rebuild part THREE, GOT Data? Log works 3 Options

[NARP74]

What were your thoughts on the wrong oil? Why did you mention that?

[914sgofast2]

From your picture of the engine case mounted in the new stand, you might want to do a little research to find a cure for the RMS leak problem.

Take a look at the posts in the Facebook "4th Dimension Type 4 Porsche/VW Performance Group" or do a YouTube search for Jake Raby's video about how to fix leaking rear main seals on Type 4 engines. I recently saw that video and was surprised by Jake's comments.

Raby files two very small relief passages above and below the rear main bearing saddle area on one side the engine case to allow oil a path to drain out of the cavity between the main bearing and the seal/crank spacers so the rear main seal stays oil tight. Raby says the factory oil drain hole is too high in this area, as well as lacking any way for air to enter the cavity so the oil can drain back into the sump, thereby creating an air lock which prevents the oil in that area from escaping unless it forces its way past the rear main seal lip. Raby also said that while the factory started using a drain hole in the 2 liter cases, it never put a drain hole in the earlier 1.7 & 1.8 liter cases. Raby further claims the factory's drain hole in the 2 liter cases was too small in diameter and located too high in the bearing saddle area to properly drain the oil back into the sump.

He also said it really doesn't matter what brand of seal you use (Victor Reinz or Elring) these days if you don't make the new oil drain passages he described in his video. However, Raby does mention that the black SABO brand seals are no longer any good and should now be completely avoided because the SABO factory's seal mold has worn out. Another thing he mentioned is that the width of the rear main seals is different because the VW Type 4 engine cases and the Porsche engine cases take different width seals because of the different sizes of the flywheel & pilot bearings in the two types of engines.

Raby said he now uses a proprietary rear main seal he gets from one of his customers who sells all types of industrial seals. Raby uses that "mystery special" seal on all the Type 4 engines he builds these days. Raby won't sell it to the public (nor does the Type 4 Store) and Raby said it comes from an unnamed military helicopter's drive unit.

[rfinegan]

I was thinking the VR1 20W50 was not the best oil for break in. Also may bypass the oil pressure controls to the cooler when cold and possibly longer with the 30mm pump.
Some-thing wore out all my NEW intake guides in less than 100 mile...

Total worn out!

What were your thoughts on the wrong oil? Why did you mention that?

[NARP74]

I was thinking the ZR 20W50 was not the best oil for break in. Also may bypass the oil pressure controls to the cooler when cold and possibly longer with the 30mm pump.
Some-thing wore out all my NEW intake guides in less than 100 mile...

Total worn out!

What were your thoughts on the wrong oil? Why did you mention that?

OK, thanks

[rfinegan]

I linked to the Raby live stream in post 19
Now that I'm on the stand I will cut the drains on the one case 1/2 but I did not have issues with my rear leaking. Thanks for descriptive tips...

From your picture of the engine case mounted in the new stand, you might want to do a little research to find a cure for the RMS leak problem.

Take a look at the posts in the Facebook "4th Dimension Type 4 Porsche/VW Performance Group" or do a YouTube search for Jake Raby's video about how to fix leaking rear main seals on Type 4 engines. I recently saw that video and was surprised by Jake's comments.

Raby files two very small relief passages above and below the rear main bearing saddle area on one side the engine case to allow oil a path to drain out of the cavity between the main bearing and the seal/crank spacers so the rear main seal stays oil tight. Raby says the factory oil drain hole is too high in this area, as well as lacking any way for air to enter the cavity so the oil can drain back into the sump, thereby creating an air lock which prevents the oil in that area from escaping unless it forces its way past the rear main seal lip. Raby also said that while the factory started using a drain hole in the 2 liter cases, it never put a drain hole in the earlier 1.7 & 1.8 liter cases. Raby further claims the factory's drain hole in the 2 liter cases was too small in diameter and located too high in the bearing saddle area to properly drain the oil back into the sump.

He also said it really doesn't matter what brand of seal you use (Victor Reinz or Elring) these days if you don't make the new oil drain passages he described in his video. However, Raby does mention that the black SABO brand seals are no longer any good and should now be completely avoided because the SABO factory's seal mold has worn out. Another thing he mentioned is that the width of the rear main seals is different because the VW Type 4 engine cases and the Porsche engine cases take different width seals because of the different sizes of the flywheel & pilot bearings in the two types of engines.

Raby said he now uses a proprietary rear main seal he gets from one of his customers who sells all types of industrial seals. Raby uses that "mystery special" seal on all the Type 4 engines he builds these days. Raby won't sell it to the public (nor does the Type 4 Store) and Raby said it comes from an unnamed military helicopter's drive unit.

[rfinegan]

Trying to keep the motivation up on this holiday week end....

[rfinegan]

[barefoot]

You keep your tools in the dark ??

[rfinegan]

Old trick of the trade...no one asks to borrow any tools!

[r_towle]

This will be the third build?

Curious about breakin methods for the cam/lifters.

Rich

[rfinegan]

Rich,

Yep this is # 3 and the $1000 dollar question:
Do I reuse the Cam?
Do I reuse the Lifters?
Do I get new Lifters?
All new?
or all new and another cam profile?


first start:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2939711

I will for sure show the inspection and be asking for advice as we get to this very soon...

The first run was with the supplied cam lube and 20 min burn in @ 2500 rpm with variation to speed slightly to keep the oil flying in all directions .Followed by tuning and re torque of the heads prior to installation in car... video in part one
Second time was the above cam and lifters ( matched to lobes and lifter bores in SAME locations) with assembly lube and 15 burn in @ 2500 rpm

This will be the third build?

Curious about breakin methods for the cam/lifters.

Rich

[rfinegan]

Heads are repaired with new intake guides and 3 angle valve job (300.00):-)

NOT A CLEAN ROOM but good for measuring and inspection...

[Cairo94507]

I have my fingers and toes crossed this motor purrs perfectly for you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[rfinegan]

I will be having a sale on engine parts it it doesn’t... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) Thanks for the Positive motivation

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)

I have my fingers and toes crossed this motor purrs perfectly for you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[rfinegan]

I did some detailed measuring on the con rod journals, but instead or re writing, Ill post a link

https://www.facebook.com/groups/type4ever/p...93206420997827/

[914rrr]

Lots of great info on this thread! Good luck!

[rfinegan]

It took a while but I finally got a set of NOS KS/KW 0.010 main bearings on the way....
I did have to pay more than I should have....but I think I am worth it! ;-)

[rfinegan]

Thanks to the generosity of a Kerry, world member here (White1975) and the loan of a T4 timing gear puller. I have the old bearings off and will be ready for the new bearings when they arrive
WooHoo

[rfinegan]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[rfinegan]

Add a VDO HEAD TEMP thermocouple under the #3 spark plug. Milled a small hole for the wires and crimp.