need some help with floor plan fix, peeling the coating, POR15, etc Options

[914 RZ-1]

The M/C leaked all over the floor plan. There's some rust as well. Before I put back everything I thought I would clean it all up.

1. What is the best way to get all the coating off the floor pan? It looks like some sort of asphalt/tar paper. It seems to be peeling off okay with a putty knife. I'm guessing I use some sort of solvent to get the remaining gunk off? Heat gun?

2. I have a kit that has cleaner/degreaser, metal prep and POR15. I also want to reseal around whatever that is (plug?) in the middle with some seam sealer. What order is this all applied?
-cleaner
-prep
-POR15
-seam sealer

OR
-cleaner
-prep
-seam sealer
-POR15

Or some other order?

3. I was going to leave the POR15 as the final coat, but do I need to paint over it? The car is silver/gray, the POR15 is gloss black. It's under the carpet and under the floor mat, so it will not show. I'm more concerned with keeping the rust at bay.

4. Where should I stop the painting? At a seal? At one of the changes in contour of the floor pan? Please note that the car was in an accident many years ago (before my ownership) and was repaired, but the floor pan is still a little uneven. My concern is that the paint will wick under the tar paper, but is that even an issue?

Here's a photo, since I know we all like pictures. There is a pile of tar paper on the left:


Thanks!
-Jeff
------------

[technicalninja]

The tie-coat primer that POR15 sells is grey.

At least it was grey...

I just checked and the "tie coat" is gone and has been replaced by their "High Build" primer that the description reads "Tie coat" and this stuff can be sprayed on CURED! POR 15.

If this works, it is an improvement.

I could not determine what color it is now...

Like all of the POR15 products it's on the more expensive side of paint supplies.
Today a qt is $42 before shipping.

POR15 is a messy job. I put on clothing and shoes that I don't car about. A hair net can save your ass. All of the items that touch the paint should be considered single use ONLY!
Lots of cardboard under what you are doing. This crap will get everywhere and if you get it off your skin in 15 seconds you can emerge un-stained but that seldom happens when I have used it.

Be super careful about not getting any paint at all in the grooves at the top of the can where the lids fit. A tiny dot will make the lids impossible to remove the next time you want to use it. Buying it in the little 4 oz cans will reduce lost paint but it's expensive this way.
I buy it in quarts and after it has been opened the first time I transfer it into glass jars that I snag from my wife. Prego sauce jars work great.
Once again DO NOT get any on the edges where the lid fits on the jar.
I use a super tiny amount of silicone grease around the glass edge to help removal down the road.

Store it in a cool/dry/dark place. The inside of a refrigerator is an excellent choice.

If you cannot get the lid off down the road just poke a couple of holes in it and pour it into a new glass jar. I always have a replacement jar ready if I'm going to open an old one.

The instructions say you can double coat it...

For me, the second coat goes on like shit and looks like shit when it dries.
I do one heavy coat. You will be able to see brush strokes in it but this stuff "flows" for quite a while and the cured product does not show the brush strokes.

A little goes a long way. I'm commonly just using 1-2 ounces on small projects.

I use cheap ass "chip" brushes from Harbor freight and am not trying to clean them at all.

I'd really like to try this stuff through an air brush, but my current air brush is far to expensive to throw away after a single use and I've been hesitant to try.

POR15 solvent works great on the paint component but doesn't seem to clear the isocyanate component. I've never been able to save any tool that touched POR15.

Do NOT put paint back in the can after it's come out. It will set the entire can off.

I have successfully stored POR15 in my shop refrigerator for 6 years plus doing the above-mentioned tips.

If you screw up and get some in your hair DO NOT try to clean it out. Let it dry and cut it out. I know this from personal experience.

When fresh out of the can it's runny and will get everywhere, it will seep under everything and will seal crap you might not want it to. Fine line masking tape (the expensive stuff you buy and an Automotive paint store) can be used to mask areas you do not want it but expect some bleed through.

Dried on your skin it will last 4 weeks until the skin come off. Dried on a concrete garage floor it will last 2 years.
On cloth it's permanent.

It's nearly impossible to get off but the one thing I haven't tried is fire itself...

I think a torch would take this stuff off, but I wouldn't want to be anywhere near the resultant smoke.

Hope this helps!
POR15 is a good product but it has many application drawbacks.

[914 RZ-1]

The tie-coat primer that POR15 sells is grey.

At least it was grey...

I just checked and the "tie coat" is gone and has been replaced by their "High Build" primer that the description reads "Tie coat" and this stuff can be sprayed on CURED! POR 15.

If this works, it is an improvement.

I could not determine what color it is now...

Like all of the POR15 products it's on the more expensive side of paint supplies.
Today a qt is $42 before shipping.

POR15 is a messy job. I put on clothing and shoes that I don't car about. A hair net can save your ass. All of the items that touch the paint should be considered single use ONLY!
Lots of cardboard under what you are doing. This crap will get everywhere and if you get it off your skin in 15 seconds you can emerge un-stained but that seldom happens when I have used it.

Be super careful about not getting any paint at all in the grooves at the top of the can where the lids fit. A tiny dot will make the lids impossible to remove the next time you want to use it. Buying it in the little 4 oz cans will reduce lost paint but it's expensive this way.
I buy it in quarts and after it has been opened the first time I transfer it into glass jars that I snag from my wife. Prego sauce jars work great.
Once again DO NOT get any on the edges where the lid fits on the jar.
I use a super tiny amount of silicone grease around the glass edge to help removal down the road.

Store it in a cool/dry/dark place. The inside of a refrigerator is an excellent choice.

If you cannot get the lid off down the road just poke a couple of holes in it and pour it into a new glass jar. I always have a replacement jar ready if I'm going to open an old one.

The instructions say you can double coat it...

For me, the second coat goes on like shit and looks like shit when it dries.
I do one heavy coat. You will be able to see brush strokes in it but this stuff "flows" for quite a while and the cured product does not show the brush strokes.

A little goes a long way. I'm commonly just using 1-2 ounces on small projects.

I use cheap ass "chip" brushes from Harbor freight and am not trying to clean them at all.

I'd really like to try this stuff through an air brush, but my current air brush is far to expensive to throw away after a single use and I've been hesitant to try.

POR15 solvent works great on the paint component but doesn't seem to clear the isocyanate component. I've never been able to save any tool that touched POR15.

Do NOT put paint back in the can after it's come out. It will set the entire can off.

I have successfully stored POR15 in my shop refrigerator for 6 years plus doing the above-mentioned tips.

If you screw up and get some in your hair DO NOT try to clean it out. Let it dry and cut it out. I know this from personal experience.

When fresh out of the can it's runny and will get everywhere, it will seep under everything and will seal crap you might not want it to. Fine line masking tape (the expensive stuff you buy and an Automotive paint store) can be used to mask areas you do not want it but expect some bleed through.

Dried on your skin it will last 4 weeks until the skin come off. Dried on a concrete garage floor it will last 2 years.
On cloth it's permanent.

It's nearly impossible to get off but the one thing I haven't tried is fire itself...

I think a torch would take this stuff off, but I wouldn't want to be anywhere near the resultant smoke.

Hope this helps!
POR15 is a good product but it has many application drawbacks.

It does, thanks. I painted my car myself, so I'm familiar with using catalyzed paint and what a PITA it can be to clean up.

I'm wearing throw-away clothes (hair tied back, safety glasses, etc) and using throw-away brushes and rags. The paint will be chucked as well, since I've never had good luck storing anything like this. I bought a small, 4 oz can for this very reason.

I still have some good tape left over, so I will be using that. Thanks for the heads-up about bleeding and getting paint in the rim, clean up, etc. This is the kind of useful info I needed.