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> Order of operations: front suspension
rjames
post Feb 18 2024, 02:24 PM
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@jhynesrockmtn Thanks! Others have said the same thing but it just didn’t seem possible as I was lying on my back staring up at the bottom of the car..

I’m planning on having 914Rubber rebuild the rack. Nice bumblebee and lift. Having a lift would sure make this job easier!
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jhynesrockmtn
post Feb 18 2024, 07:47 PM
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QUOTE(rjames @ Feb 18 2024, 12:24 PM) *

@jhynesrockmtn Thanks! Others have said the same thing but it just didn’t seem possible as I was lying on my back staring up at the bottom of the car..

I’m planning on having 914Rubber rebuild the rack. Nice bumble bee and lift. Have a lift would sure make this job easier!


There is room to slide it past the MC with the console removed. Thanks. The BB has been a fair bit of work, and I have more ahead of me, but overall it is a solid car. The lift sure does make things like this easier!
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rjames
post Mar 15 2024, 03:46 PM
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Finally got some more work done.
Crossmember and rack removed without touching the MC! Based on the model# buried in grime, I have type a 'B' rack. It will be sent to 914 Rubber for a rebuild.
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The coupler actually looked very good, but it will get replaced anyway since I already bought the part.
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Per usual, a couple of questions:

Steering shaft bearing: Can I just clean and regrease this, or should I just replace it? The replacements I see for sale don't look quite the same to my eyes.
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Suspension parts. I've removed all the rust and loose paint, cleaned and etched the metal for painting (powdercoating isn't in the budget).
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I'm thinking about using Rustoleum Professional enamel (brush on- not the spray paint) after applying coat of their pro metal primer. Anyone have experience using this stuff? Are there other products I should be considering? Cost is a factor and I'm not interested in anything that I have to mail order or remove all of the existing paint to apply.
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TargaToy
post Mar 16 2024, 07:47 PM
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-NONSOLIS RADIOS SEDIOUIS FULMINA MITTO-
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QUOTE(rjames @ Mar 15 2024, 04:46 PM) *

Finally got some more work done.
Crossmember and rack removed without touching the MC! Based on the model# buried in grime, I have type a 'B' rack. It will be sent to 914 Rubber for a rebuild.
Attached Image

The coupler actually looked very good, but it will get replaced anyway since I already bought the part.
Attached Image

Per usual, a couple of questions:

Steering shaft bearing: Can I just clean and regrease this, or should I just replace it? The replacements I see for sale don't look quite the same to my eyes.
Attached Image

Suspension parts. I've removed all the rust and loose paint, cleaned and etched the metal for painting (powdercoating isn't in the budget).
Attached Image

I'm thinking about using Rustoleum Professional enamel (brush on- not the spray paint) after applying coat of their pro metal primer. Anyone have experience using this stuff? Are there other products I should be considering? Cost is a factor and I'm not interested in anything that I have to mail order or remove all of the existing paint to apply.
Attached Image


I used this Rustoleum on my front and rear arms and I’m extremely happy with the results. In fact I did the front strut bodies, rear hubs, and probably some other parts I’ve forgotten with the same stuff. They cured hard and glossy and feel like they were powder coated.
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rjames
post Mar 18 2024, 10:05 PM
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@TargaToy

Thanks for sharing your experience.
The primer has been applied. Topcoat in black to follow.
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jhynesrockmtn
post Mar 19 2024, 07:19 PM
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Looking good! I'd replace the bearing, they are cheap.
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rjames
post Mar 20 2024, 07:26 PM
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Parts ready to go back on the car when the rack rebuild is done.
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rjames
post Mar 25 2024, 02:22 PM
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While waiting for my rebuilt rack to come back from 914Rubber, I did a thing.
Attached Image

I don’t know what the old lines were made of, but they probably would’ve lasted another 50 years. Better safe than sorry, though.
Attached Image

Took a couple of hours just to get them out when you include removing the center console and cleaning up. I really hate dealing with the fuel lines!

Amateur tip: plugging the lines at the gas tank ends with plumbers putty will keep them from leaking gasoline in the center tunnel when you pull them out from the rear firewall and won’t interfere with their removal.
I’ll take a run at getting the SS lines installed later today.
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jhynesrockmtn
post Mar 26 2024, 08:35 AM
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QUOTE(rjames @ Mar 25 2024, 01:22 PM) *

While waiting for my rebuilt rack to come back from 914Rubber, I did a thing.
Attached Image

I don’t know what the old lines were made of, but they probably would’ve lasted another 50 years. Better safe than sorry, though.
Attached Image

Took a couple of hours just to get them out when you include removing the center console and cleaning up. I really hate dealing with the fuel lines!

Amateur tip: plugging the lines at the gas tank ends with plumbers putty will keep them from leaking gasoline in the center tunnel when you pull them out from the rear firewall and won’t interfere with their removal.
I’ll take a run at getting the SS lines installed later today.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) I've done this upgrade to all of my 914s. 3 so far. Well worth the peace of mind.
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rjames
post Mar 31 2024, 01:50 PM
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In hindsight I wish I had left the original plastic fuel lines in tact. They showed no signs of failure, and removing them and installing the SS lines actually introduced additional failure points because after installing the SS lines, you have to add 2 rubber lines of decent length to connect the SS lines from the firewall up to the SS lines that go in the engine bay.
The original setup had the plastic lines going the way through the tunnel up into the engine bay.

If anyone with a '75 or '76 model car is contemplating the SS lines, save yourself the time and $ and keep the original setup.
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