Order of operations: front suspension |
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Order of operations: front suspension |
rjames |
Feb 18 2024, 02:24 PM
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#41
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 3,920 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
@jhynesrockmtn Thanks! Others have said the same thing but it just didn’t seem possible as I was lying on my back staring up at the bottom of the car..
I’m planning on having 914Rubber rebuild the rack. Nice bumblebee and lift. Having a lift would sure make this job easier! |
jhynesrockmtn |
Feb 18 2024, 07:47 PM
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#42
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Member Group: Members Posts: 418 Joined: 13-June 16 From: spokane wa Member No.: 20,100 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
@jhynesrockmtn Thanks! Others have said the same thing but it just didn’t seem possible as I was lying on my back staring up at the bottom of the car.. I’m planning on having 914Rubber rebuild the rack. Nice bumble bee and lift. Have a lift would sure make this job easier! There is room to slide it past the MC with the console removed. Thanks. The BB has been a fair bit of work, and I have more ahead of me, but overall it is a solid car. The lift sure does make things like this easier! |
rjames |
Mar 15 2024, 03:46 PM
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#43
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 3,920 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Finally got some more work done.
Crossmember and rack removed without touching the MC! Based on the model# buried in grime, I have type a 'B' rack. It will be sent to 914 Rubber for a rebuild. The coupler actually looked very good, but it will get replaced anyway since I already bought the part. Per usual, a couple of questions: Steering shaft bearing: Can I just clean and regrease this, or should I just replace it? The replacements I see for sale don't look quite the same to my eyes. Suspension parts. I've removed all the rust and loose paint, cleaned and etched the metal for painting (powdercoating isn't in the budget). I'm thinking about using Rustoleum Professional enamel (brush on- not the spray paint) after applying coat of their pro metal primer. Anyone have experience using this stuff? Are there other products I should be considering? Cost is a factor and I'm not interested in anything that I have to mail order or remove all of the existing paint to apply. |
TargaToy |
Mar 16 2024, 07:47 PM
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#44
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-NONSOLIS RADIOS SEDIOUIS FULMINA MITTO- Group: Members Posts: 692 Joined: 26-March 10 From: DelMarVa Peninsula Member No.: 11,509 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Finally got some more work done. Crossmember and rack removed without touching the MC! Based on the model# buried in grime, I have type a 'B' rack. It will be sent to 914 Rubber for a rebuild. The coupler actually looked very good, but it will get replaced anyway since I already bought the part. Per usual, a couple of questions: Steering shaft bearing: Can I just clean and regrease this, or should I just replace it? The replacements I see for sale don't look quite the same to my eyes. Suspension parts. I've removed all the rust and loose paint, cleaned and etched the metal for painting (powdercoating isn't in the budget). I'm thinking about using Rustoleum Professional enamel (brush on- not the spray paint) after applying coat of their pro metal primer. Anyone have experience using this stuff? Are there other products I should be considering? Cost is a factor and I'm not interested in anything that I have to mail order or remove all of the existing paint to apply. I used this Rustoleum on my front and rear arms and I’m extremely happy with the results. In fact I did the front strut bodies, rear hubs, and probably some other parts I’ve forgotten with the same stuff. They cured hard and glossy and feel like they were powder coated. |
rjames |
Mar 18 2024, 10:05 PM
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#45
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 3,920 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
@TargaToy
Thanks for sharing your experience. The primer has been applied. Topcoat in black to follow. |
jhynesrockmtn |
Mar 19 2024, 07:19 PM
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#46
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Member Group: Members Posts: 418 Joined: 13-June 16 From: spokane wa Member No.: 20,100 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Looking good! I'd replace the bearing, they are cheap.
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rjames |
Mar 20 2024, 07:26 PM
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#47
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 3,920 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
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rjames |
Mar 25 2024, 02:22 PM
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#48
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 3,920 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
While waiting for my rebuilt rack to come back from 914Rubber, I did a thing.
I don’t know what the old lines were made of, but they probably would’ve lasted another 50 years. Better safe than sorry, though. Took a couple of hours just to get them out when you include removing the center console and cleaning up. I really hate dealing with the fuel lines! Amateur tip: plugging the lines at the gas tank ends with plumbers putty will keep them from leaking gasoline in the center tunnel when you pull them out from the rear firewall and won’t interfere with their removal. I’ll take a run at getting the SS lines installed later today. |
jhynesrockmtn |
Mar 26 2024, 08:35 AM
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#49
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Member Group: Members Posts: 418 Joined: 13-June 16 From: spokane wa Member No.: 20,100 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
While waiting for my rebuilt rack to come back from 914Rubber, I did a thing. I don’t know what the old lines were made of, but they probably would’ve lasted another 50 years. Better safe than sorry, though. Took a couple of hours just to get them out when you include removing the center console and cleaning up. I really hate dealing with the fuel lines! Amateur tip: plugging the lines at the gas tank ends with plumbers putty will keep them from leaking gasoline in the center tunnel when you pull them out from the rear firewall and won’t interfere with their removal. I’ll take a run at getting the SS lines installed later today. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) I've done this upgrade to all of my 914s. 3 so far. Well worth the peace of mind. |
rjames |
Mar 31 2024, 01:50 PM
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#50
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 3,920 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
In hindsight I wish I had left the original plastic fuel lines in tact. They showed no signs of failure, and removing them and installing the SS lines actually introduced additional failure points because after installing the SS lines, you have to add 2 rubber lines of decent length to connect the SS lines from the firewall up to the SS lines that go in the engine bay.
The original setup had the plastic lines going the way through the tunnel up into the engine bay. If anyone with a '75 or '76 model car is contemplating the SS lines, save yourself the time and $ and keep the original setup. |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 3rd May 2024 - 02:49 AM |
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