Oil Leaks, I am tired of them Options

[Jack Standz]

That doesn't look like a bus case. It makes sense to run a windage tray & you can place an add here because someone probably has one they're willing to part with.

[sdoolin]

Finally getting around to re-assembly, springtime and early summer has been busy and I haven't had time to work on this. Anywho, I dropped the case halves off with my engine builder for cleaning and inspection. Picked them up today and they are surely clean and nearly ready to go. But - and I hate to say this - I am missing a single one of the small dowel pins that locate the crank bearings. I have 4 of them, but it appears I need five.

Anyone have one of these laying around that might be contributable? Not sure where I'd buy one of these?

Pic - because we all love pics!

[914sgofast2]

Dowel pins can be purchased from Pelican Parts; AutohausAZ; or FCP Euro. Many VW parts houses sell them as well.

[Nogoodwithusernames]

Most of the VW suppliers will have them too, since it is the same for the late bus motors. I think that pin may be the same in the T1 engine as well.
I have a little bag of extras from building my 1.7 for that very reason, they like to go missing!

[914sgofast2]

In going over this thread, it looks like you are running twin carbs. On the engine parts table, the oil filler box shows that you still have a PCV valve screwed into the oil filler box. The PCV valve needs to be removed if you are running carbs. The PCV must be replaced with a hose barb and hose to an oil breather catch can above the engine. Without a functioning PCV, the engine's internal air pressure cannot escape is pushing motor oil out through the seals and any available places the internal air pressure finds to escape. That might be why you are having so many oil leak issues.
As to the windage tray issue, you don't need one. The early 1.7 liter engines didn't even have an internal ledge in the case for the windage tray to sit upon. Buses didn't have windage trays either. If you do a lot of spirited driving, then you might consider a windage tray, but you will need to buy both a used windage tray, as well as a used windage tray style of oil pump pickup (the shape of the pipe on the two types of pickups are slightly different).

[sdoolin]

Thanks for the tips on dowel pins, an order has been placed.

[sdoolin]

@914sgofast - good eyes on the PCV. Yes I am running dual carbs. I believe I drilled out that PCV so that it is basically a pass through, but I am going to double check it. I am running with a period correct BugPack catch can mounted above the engine on the firewall. Tks for the advice.

[sdoolin]

Some questions I have come up with over the weekend:
1 - Can the "spiral-in" wrist pin keepers be re-used? I think I know the answer but thought I'd ask.
2 - If no above, is it unwise to use a C-Clip type wrist pin keeper on one side of the wrist pin whilst the spiral-in type is on the other side? I also think I know the answer to this...
3 - Is it unwise to install front and rear main seals as part of case build-up? In other words install both seals in one case half, then bolt things together? Generally I install the main seals after the cases are bolted up, but find myself wondering about that method as it involves a hammer (usually).

[Geezer914]

I have a few minor oil leaks. When I start the engine the oil pressure gauge reads 79 lbs. I think the high pressure is causing oil to seep out of the oil cooler seals. Once the oil warms I am 40 lbs. at 3400 rpm.

[930cabman]

I have a few minor oil leaks. When I start the engine the oil pressure gauge reads 79 lbs. I think the high pressure is causing oil to seep out of the oil cooler seals. Once the oil warms I am 40 lbs. at 3400 rpm.

IIRC there is/should be a pressure relief valve to bleed off high pressure. My gut tells me 79 psi is too high. My fresh 2056 is just a touch over 60 psi when cold and around 45 -50 psi at 3400 when at operating temp

[Geezer914]

I have the Tangerine Racing oil pressure relief valve installed.

[sdoolin]

Some questions I have come up with over the weekend:
1 - Can the "spiral-in" wrist pin keepers be re-used? I think I know the answer but thought I'd ask.
2 - If no above, is it unwise to use a C-Clip type wrist pin keeper on one side of the wrist pin whilst the spiral-in type is on the other side? I also think I know the answer to this...
3 - Is it unwise to install front and rear main seals as part of case build-up? In other words install both seals in one case half, then bolt things together? Generally I install the main seals after the cases are bolted up, but find myself wondering about that method as it involves a hammer (usually).

So, back to these questions, I'm interested in folks' thoughts. I am very close to assembly.

[emerygt350]

I have the Tangerine Racing oil pressure relief valve installed.

I wonder if it isn't jammed or something?

[Superhawk996]

I have a few minor oil leaks. When I start the engine the oil pressure gauge reads 79 lbs. I think the high pressure is causing oil to seep out of the oil cooler seals. Once the oil warms I am 40 lbs. at 3400 rpm.

Talk to Chris. As I understand it, his relief valve setup eliminates the oil cooler bypass completely but was supposed to regulate pressure to about 60 psi max.

If you have 80 psi cold oil pressure at the oil cooler I wouldn’t be surprised that seals weep.

[technicalninja]

Some questions I have come up with over the weekend:
1 - Can the "spiral-in" wrist pin keepers be re-used? I think I know the answer but thought I'd ask.
2 - If no above, is it unwise to use a C-Clip type wrist pin keeper on one side of the wrist pin whilst the spiral-in type is on the other side? I also think I know the answer to this...
3 - Is it unwise to install front and rear main seals as part of case build-up? In other words install both seals in one case half, then bolt things together? Generally I install the main seals after the cases are bolted up, but find myself wondering about that method as it involves a hammer (usually).

So, back to these questions, I'm interested in folks' thoughts. I am very close to assembly.

No to all...
Usually, the groove in the pin bore is specific to the type of lock. You might check with the manufacture. Spiro-locks are a PIA!
I've always bled during the install of those.

I've ALWAYS pinched the seal when trying to install it that way and on a split case unit I'm using some type of sealant between the case halves that needs to be cleaned from the seal recess before the seal goes in.

Sorry!
I do it "the old fashion" way.

Make sure to do the Raby mod to the rear seal. Involves machining (with a file) a serious drain back "slot" for the rear seal.

[sdoolin]

Thank you ninja. I am unaware of the "Raby mod" for the RMS? Can you or anyone share any info on that? I am a believer in Raby's work, and I have his assembly CD (actually have lost it), so if there's some Raby advice about the RMS, I'm completely on-board doing it.

[sdoolin]

Those spiral lock wrist pin keepers sure do look re-usable.

[sdoolin]

LN Engineering (where I purchased the full 2056 "kit") confirms that the spiraloc wrist pin retainers are reusable. So I am good to go on that.

I think the Raby assembly video recommends a sealer behind the case through bolts, or the washers therein more specifically? I have forgetton what sealer to use there, and I cannot locate that CD any longer.

Trying very hard for an oil tight(ish) engine this time around.

[Jake Raby]

Curil T or K2 works best under these washers. My video was shot in the prior millennium and lots has changed.
That said, the key to having less oil leaks is the following:
- Proper cylinder/ Ring seal! If this is botched crankcase pressure becomes too high and "blow by" will force oil from orifices that would otherwise never leak. "Better" crankcase ventilation isn't a band aid- stop the issue at the source.

-Adequate clearance between pushrod tubes and exhaust components. If these sit too close together, or contact at all the heat transfers into the PR tube and scorches to O rings.

There's about 500 other tricks, but these are two huge essentials.

[Geezer914]

I remember gooping up the case thru bolts with ARP thread sealer under the washers and threads , then attaching the nuts. no leaks.