Oil Leaks, I am tired of them Options

[sdoolin]

what is the current group-think regarding bolt on valve covers from LE (Type IV Store)? It sure seems like bolting these covers on would resist oil leakage better than the bales? Plus I think they look cool.

Im in agreement but cant get past the $$ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

I'm with you, I hadn't noticed the price. Sheesh that is a LOT.

[technicalninja]

Jake Raby did a video about his frustration in finding a RMS that won’t leak. The video used to be on his Facebook page but he deleted it. In a nutshell, he concluded that no one sells a RMS that is any good. He found a seal he liked that doesn’t leak by using one from a military helicopter, but he is not revealing the source or identifying the seal info. There is another fix he discussed by adding third hole to the rear of the engine case so the oil trapped in the void at the rear of the main bearing can quickly drain back into the case. He said an upper hole has to be made as an air vent to prevent a vacuum forming between the bearing and the seal. If you look at your engine case you will see 2 drain back holes, but they are at the same level, so air can’t get in to that area and allow the oil to drain out.

I'm betting he found a reverse style seal.

All the manufactures are moving in this direction.

The rear seal for Gen 3 GM small blocks and Mazda/Ford 2.0-2.5l engines are reverse lip style. I've NEVER seen one leak...

As crankcase pressure goes up these seal even better.

When I need one for my T4, I'm going to research this...

I've got a 98 M3. The original seal ($20) has been replaced by one of this style seal.
The "new" seal is over $80...

I've been drilling extra holes in seal bores for decades (just like Raby) I've never done a RMS like this but cam seals all can be helped by adding and increasing drain back and vent passages.

[Jack Standz]

The silicone valve cover gaskets Aircooled.Net used to sell work so much better than the cork ones. Not sure who sells those anymore, but take a look:

https://www.cbperformance.com/category-s/40...w=15&page=1

[sdoolin]

The silicone valve cover gaskets Aircooled.Net used to sell work so much better than the cork ones. Not sure who sells those anymore, but take a look:

https://www.cbperformance.com/category-s/40...w=15&page=1

Thank you for that. I broke down and ordered a set of the CB bolt on valve covers. I have literally wanted a set since I built my first bus engine in college (in mid 80's). I couldn't afford them back then. Now even if they don't cure an oil leak, I'll have them in the shop.

914World Rocks!

[VaccaRabite]

Regular valve covers work fine. You don't need a special bolt on deal.

For valve cover gaskets, I have always had a lot of success using a standard cork gasket. I use a THIN smear of RTV on the side of the gasket that goes into the valve cover to hold it in place. I do not use ANY RTV on the side of the gasket that goes on the head.

Using this method, a standard cork valve cover gasket will last years and several on off cycles.

Zach

[ctc911ctc]

'74 2.0, 28k miles

I tried to tighten the leaks with the engine in the car, 4-5 tries and then I took the engine out, tore near everything off (cylinders stayed on) and cleaned and cleaned and cleaned until all of the oil marks were removed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)

all rubber/synthetic(?) seals were replaced: front/rear, the most important oil cooler seals, and all of the push-rod seals. I bought a few new push rod tubes, a couple were bent and well, did not look very good. I did not use any LTV for anything because of the high operating temperature. (this is an opinion only). I used Permatex 80017 to secure the push-rod tubes seals and the others so when placed into position they stay in that position, and it may provide that little bit extra sealant. Though the odor is not very good I have had good results with Permatex - I think sealants, after I have had a few years of experience with them, is a matter of learning how to use the one of choice, all are a bit nuanced (again, opinion) and one persons perfect sealant is another persons evil sealant. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

The engine has been in for 2 years, not a leak. I did have one or two of the push-rod tubes start seeping in the beginning, I removed them with the engine in the car and then re-sealed with great success. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Not a drop on my garage floor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

CTC911CTC

[Geezer914]

Second that, Permatex Hi Tac gasket cement on the valve cover side and a light coat of grease on the side towards the head. 914 Rubber sells a thicker cork gasket if your bails are week.

[FlacaProductions]

The VW logo on the cover goes UPSIDE DOWN when the cover is installed correctly. I use Gasgacinch 440-A between
the gasket and valve cover. Dry between the gasket and head.

I use standard cork Victor Reinz gaskets - I tried the extra thick ones and they were too thick for me.

Permatex Aviation Gasket sealant on gaskets like taco plate and tuna can.

Been working for me - not a drip other than from the oil pressure extension hose threads - which was eliminated with some (wait for it) Permatex Aviation Gasket sealant.

[bkrantz]

The truly leak-free type 4 engine might be a fantasy. I chased that grail for a year, which involved multiple engine drops. In the end I think (knock on wooden head) got all the significant leaks, but I know a couple of places, including push-rod tubes) still weep a bit. Good luck.

[brant]

pushrod seals are an o ring...
they are designed to spin or be free to turn
any type of RTV on those seals is not correct.

[wonkipop]

pushrod seals are an o ring...
they are designed to spin or be free to turn
any type of RTV on those seals is not correct.

yeo (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[sdoolin]

Still working on teardown, finding pretty much what I thought I would. I was expecting evidence of pushrod tube seal leakage, RMS leakage, and even oil pump gasket leakage, all fixable. In the pic below, I'm curious about the amount of oil on the base of the jugs where they get very friendly with the case. Also the amount of oil on the studs. This is above the inner pushrod tube seals, but it seems (to me) like I may be leaking at the base of the jugs? Which I would hate? Interestingly, and just to jinx myself, the oil cooler seals are nice and dry. There about 6K miles on this engine since complete rebuild.

[Porschef]

Really despise oil leaks. I suppose owning an air cooled vehicle doesn’t make much sense but I digress... My engine leaves a series of oil markings that keep me from parking in certain places without a diaper (sheet of cardboard). Seems to be coming primarily from the front; I suspect the oil pump or front seal, that leak then blows back along the bottom of the engine making it difficult to find any possible additional leaks.

Anyway, I hope to pull the engine over the winter to address this, hope being the operative word... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[burton73]

what about the spring loaded tubes, effective or not?


.

On a type one, they would function. Don’t know if they would leak. But the type 4 push rod tube doesn’t work like that.

I think he is talking about the "Leak Proof Pushrod Tubes" you can get from PMB Performance.

I recently installed them on my car and so far, so good but it has been less than 1000 miles.
I've got an oil leak but it is not in the pushrod tubes.

Picture of the PMB Tubes

Bob B

Try this

[Olympic 914]

Wow those tubes look nice. don't think I want to pull the engine just to install them though.

But one more thing to think about....

[Literati914]

what about the spring loaded tubes, effective or not?


.

On a type one, they would function. Don’t know if they would leak. But the type 4 push rod tube doesn’t work like that.

I think he is talking about the "Leak Proof Pushrod Tubes" you can get from PMB Performance.

I recently installed them on my car and so far, so good but it has been less than 1000 miles.
I've got an oil leak but it is not in the pushrod tubes.

Picture of the PMB Tubes

Bob B

That's them, knew I'd seen them somewhere.. think I'll pick up a set at some point (but hey they are currently on sale (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) ).

[Jack Standz]

Wow those tubes look nice. don't think I want to pull the engine just to install them though.

But one more thing to think about....

You don't need to pull the engine to install the pushrod tubes. But, yes it is easier to install them on an engine stand.

Just looked closer at the above pushrod tubes. Those are for a type I VW, not a 914 head.

[sdoolin]

I have ordered new pushrod tubes from TIVStore, have the fancy McMaster-Carr X-ring pushrod tube seals, and various other new gaskets. Much cleaning required before re-assembly.

Question:

What is current group-think on phenolic spacers and gaskets? I am running carbs (love them), and I use a gasket on each side of the phenolic spacer, which gives the intake manifold nuts precious little grip on the studs. Can I lose the paper gaskets?

[sdoolin]

pushrod seals are an o ring...
they are designed to spin or be free to turn
any type of RTV on those seals is not correct.

Agree, and there is zero RTV on this engine. When I was younger I "may have" used a pound of RTV on a bus engine.

[Geezer914]

DuPont Moly coat 55 O ring grease!