Oil Leaks, I am tired of them Options

[Front yard mechanic]

It’s called controled seepage

[porschetub]

The silicone valve cover gaskets Aircooled.Net used to sell work so much better than the cork ones. Not sure who sells those anymore, but take a look:

https://www.cbperformance.com/category-s/40...w=15&page=1

Thank you for that. I broke down and ordered a set of the CB bolt on valve covers. I have literally wanted a set since I built my first bus engine in college (in mid 80's). I couldn't afford them back then. Now even if they don't cure an oil leak, I'll have them in the shop.

914World Rocks!

Good they should be fine ,just be aware you really need to replace the rocker studs to heavy duty ones that have 8mm thread on the outside ,the puny 7mm stock ones are not up to holding rocker gear and the alloy cover .
Edit ....just had a look on CB listing ,keen sale price and they come with correct hardware so as mentioned you be happy with these .
When removing the old studs from the your heads it pays to head the stud bosses up to help them unscrew so you don't pull the threads ,I found them rather tight on my last build with these alloy covers, sorry but don't remember what torque I used but that should be in the instructions or call CB ,cheers.

[Literati914]

..Just looked closer at the above pushrod tubes. Those are for a type I VW, not a 914 head.

OK and there's multiple options for these on a VW 1600 apparently - so strange if nobody offered the same for a type 4.. I didn't take much time looking into it but I wonder if there are any options via the aircraft industry. If not, then here's a business opportunity for some industrious types.

.

[sdoolin]

DuPont Moly coat 55 O ring grease!

I have a brand new, fresh tube of it!

[sdoolin]

Spent all day cleaning. Have a pretty good contact cleaner & bourbon buzz. Waiting for new pushrod tubes and various gaskets. I have questions about phenolic spacers and exhaust bolts...

[sdoolin]

The silicone valve cover gaskets Aircooled.Net used to sell work so much better than the cork ones. Not sure who sells those anymore, but take a look:

https://www.cbperformance.com/category-s/40...w=15&page=1

Thank you for that. I broke down and ordered a set of the CB bolt on valve covers. I have literally wanted a set since I built my first bus engine in college (in mid 80's). I couldn't afford them back then. Now even if they don't cure an oil leak, I'll have them in the shop.

914World Rocks!

Good they should be fine ,just be aware you really need to replace the rocker studs to heavy duty ones that have 8mm thread on the outside ,the puny 7mm stock ones are not up to holding rocker gear and the alloy cover .
Edit ....just had a look on CB listing ,keen sale price and they come with correct hardware so as mentioned you be happy with these .
When removing the old studs from the your heads it pays to head the stud bosses up to help them unscrew so you don't pull the threads ,I found them rather tight on my last build with these alloy covers, sorry but don't remember what torque I used but that should be in the instructions or call CB ,cheers.

Thank you for this bit of info. CB is waiting on gaskets to ship my bolt on covers. I will revisit this when I get to this point in the assembly.

[Geezer914]

Did you install the engine with these covers? I had a set of cast aluminum covers and when I tried to install them with the engine in the car, I ran into clearance issues.

[ClayPerrine]

..Just looked closer at the above pushrod tubes. Those are for a type I VW, not a 914 head.

OK and there's multiple options for these on a VW 1600 apparently - so strange if nobody offered the same for a type 4.. I didn't take much time looking into it but I wonder if there are any options via the aircraft industry. If not, then here's a business opportunity for some industrious types.

.

I have a set of those fancy valve covers for a Type IV. Not worth the money. They don't prevent leaks any better than the stock covers, and the rubber gaskets are hard to find.

If I can find all the hardware for them, you can have them for free.

[sdoolin]

..Just looked closer at the above pushrod tubes. Those are for a type I VW, not a 914 head.

OK and there's multiple options for these on a VW 1600 apparently - so strange if nobody offered the same for a type 4.. I didn't take much time looking into it but I wonder if there are any options via the aircraft industry. If not, then here's a business opportunity for some industrious types.

.

I have a set of those fancy valve covers for a Type IV. Not worth the money. They don't prevent leaks any better than the stock covers, and the rubber gaskets are hard to find.

If I can find all the hardware for them, you can have them for free.

Very kind offer. I have a set on order from CB. But if you wanna send yours away, I'll store them safely in my barn for decades.

[sdoolin]

Thinking about phenolic spacers, the spacers between the cyl. head and the intake runners.

Do I need these if I am running carbs? I have been running them, along with a gasket on each side of them. I believe the rationale for running them is to provide some thermal barrier between the heads and the intake so as not to vaporize the gasoline in the float bowls. This has worked well, but the thickness of the two gaskets and the spacer gives the intake manifold nuts precious little bit on the studs?

Is there a sealant I can run in place of the gaskets and keep using the phenolic spacers?

[Superhawk996]

Or . . . wait for it . . . Longer studs?

[Geezer914]

If running carbs you should run phelonic spacers to keep the fuel from boiling in the float bowls.

[brant]

Longer studs for carbs is a standard thing

You will need them

[sdoolin]

Longer studs for carbs is a standard thing

You will need them

Longer studs it is then. Thank you. Longer is, after all, usually better. Strangely I'm not sure where to source longer studs, so help there would be appreciated. Studs on top of the intake runners could be longer too.

I really appreciate all the help from this site!

[sdoolin]

Or . . . wait for it . . . Longer studs?

OK, I deserved that. Funny.

[sdoolin]

More cleaning, inspection, and beginning of re-assembly. Fascinating the amount of grime accumulated in 6 yrs and 6K miles with what I kept telling myself were "minor oil leaks"....

[Superhawk996]

Longer studs for carbs is a standard thing

You will need them

Longer studs it is then. Thank you. Longer is, after all, usually better. Strangely I'm not sure where to source longer studs, so help there would be appreciated. Studs on top of the intake runners could be longer too.

I really appreciate all the help from this site!

Belmetric is always a good 1st choice
https://belmetric.com/studs-and-rods/

Local hardware stores may have them but selection of lengths, thread pitch, and plating is usually very limited.

[rhodyguy]

You are running the shorter version of intake manifolds. You’ll notice how the base is thicker for one stud. You can’t use phenolics without longer studs for the base thickness. Hassle….CB tall intakes have the same thickness for the whole base. Either switch to tall intakes or longer studs. Phenolic spacers really help with the heat soak issue.

[sdoolin]

[/quote]

Belmetric is always a good 1st choice
https://belmetric.com/studs-and-rods/

Local hardware stores may have them but selection of lengths, thread pitch, and plating is usually very limited.
[/quote]

Appreciate the link for Belmetric. I will be spending money tonight!

[sdoolin]

Attempts to remove existing intake studs have failed miserably. These are HAM heads, are 6 yrs old, and have about 6K miles on them. I have (of course) tried penetrating oil, and heat, all to no avail and I'm afraid I will pull the threads out of the heads. I am using the "double nut" method (pic below) and I get no movement on the stud.

Is there a special tool that I need to add to my collection of rarely used but significantly useful tools?