Oil Leaks, I am tired of them Options

[Superhawk996]

Collet style stud install and removal tools specific to size and thread pitch are the best tool that will not damage threads.

I’ve never had intake studs break when being removed. My guess is they used some Loctite - need more heat! Aluminum is a great
Thermal conductor and moves heat away quickly. Plus the head and fins are helping to radiate the heat away and out of the head. You’ll need a lot of heat - like Oxy-Acetylene or the propane / MAPP gas for a while.

Heat the head around the stud - avoiding the stud or wrap stud with wet cloth to keep it cool. You want the aluminum to expand - not the stud.

These appear to be knockoff of Snap-on / Matco set I’ve used for about 1/3 the price

[Dave_Darling]

OK and there's multiple options for these on a VW 1600 apparently - so strange if nobody offered the same for a type 4..

Not needed for a Type IV. On a Type I (or 911) engine you have to remove the cylinder heads to install new pushrod (oil drain) tubes, because they are sandwiched between the case and the head. The two-piece spring-loaded tubes allow you to compress the length of the tube, put the new one in place, and then release to let the tube expand into position. (You would crush the old tube to pull it out.)

On the Type IV engine, the tubes just slide straight out of the head and case. The new tube just slides in. The more complex, more expensive tubes (that have an extra seal to leak!) are not needed. That said, there do seem to be some sold for the Type IV, or at least advertised for them.

--DD

[sdoolin]

Thank you Superhawk996 - which reminds of two different motorcycles. Stud installer & remover kit on order.

I was using MAPP gas, but likely for not long enough. I will try again when the tool arrives.

[burton73]

pushrod seals are an o ring...
they are designed to spin or be free to turn
any type of RTV on those seals is not correct.

Agree, and there is zero RTV on this engine. When I was younger I "may have" used a pound of RTV on a bus engine.

RTV is 25 cubic inches per lb. How did I know that?

[sdoolin]

More re-assembly today. The special "X-Ring" O-rings are a PITA, but I feel good about them. They were difficult to install, but I am hopeful that between these O-Rings and the Dow Molykote 55 grease I'll have less leakage at the pushrod tubes. Patience is key here (and bourbon). These X-Rings seem ever so slightly too big on the case-side, so "fenagling" was required.

I am terrible with my new expensive camera, so never mind the out of focus image.

CB Perf cast Al valve covers came with the wrong size adapters so I have to drill and tap one side of them to 8X1.25. That is for another day.

[porschetub]

Thank you Superhawk996 - which reminds of two different motorcycles. Stud installer & remover kit on order.

I was using MAPP gas, but likely for not long enough. I will try again when the tool arrives.

More heat and cycle it several times around the head , (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[Dave_Darling]

I do not like the bolt-on valve covers for our engines. The rocker studs are not the strongest, and the covers put even more stress on them. Plus a lot of people say that they "always leak". The stock stamped-steel covers work well if you put them on correctly.

--DD

[rjames]

I do not like the bolt-on valve covers for our engines. The rocker studs are not the strongest, and the covers put even more stress on them. Plus a lot of people say that they "always leak". The stock stamped-steel covers work well if you put them on correctly.

--DD

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
The only time mine leaked is when I didn't get the cover on all the way. I've even reused the same cork gaskets before without an issue.

[porschetub]

I do not like the bolt-on valve covers for our engines. The rocker studs are not the strongest, and the covers put even more stress on them. Plus a lot of people say that they "always leak". The stock stamped-steel covers work well if you put them on correctly.

--DD

Thats why i asked if he had the heavier 8mm studs and appears they are in the CB kit (see my reply ) that sorts the stud weakness , when I got my alloy covers these studs were missing and got the correct ones on the Samba .
A lot of people say this and that its a matter of doing it right ,cheers.

[sdoolin]

I finally received the CB Performance bolt on valve covers, but the adapters (that clamp the rocker shaft on one side and the valve cover on the other) or 6mm on one side and 8mm on the other. The studs supplied with the kit are 8mm, and the rocker shaft studs are also 8mm. So I'll have to call CB and try to sort that out. Which sounds demoralizing.

New question: How to hold the crankshaft whilst removing (or installing) the flywheel? I can just zip the flywheel bolts out with an impact driver to remove them, but not sure how to hold the crank whilst installing them to correct torques spec? It's been 6 yrs since I built this engine last and I can't seem to remember what I did?

All help appreciated...

[Jack Standz]

Available for approximately $20 to $25 from your favorite vendors:

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/UN1201100

BTW a stock valve cover does work well if it's not too banged-up. But, if you have non-stock rocker arms/adjusters, the cast one from CB Performance clears rockers that won't fit in a stock valve cover and with the silicone rubber gaskets, they don't leak.

[ericoneal]

I'm up the road from you in Crestwood and have one of these if you want to borrow it.

Available for approximately $20 to $25 from your favorite vendors:

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/UN1201100

BTW a stock valve cover does work well if it's not too banged-up. But, if you have non-stock rocker arms/adjusters, the cast one from CB Performance clears rockers that won't fit in a stock valve cover and with the silicone rubber gaskets, they don't leak.

[sdoolin]

I'm up the road from you in Crestwood and have one of these if you want to borrow it.

Available for approximately $20 to $25 from your favorite vendors:

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/UN1201100

BTW a stock valve cover does work well if it's not too banged-up. But, if you have non-stock rocker arms/adjusters, the cast one from CB Performance clears rockers that won't fit in a stock valve cover and with the silicone rubber gaskets, they don't leak.

Thank you Eric. I will take you up on that. Will message you when I am that far along.

[technicalninja]

I have one of those flywheel locks.
I've had it since the mid 80s.
You can make that work on pretty much EVERYTHING!
I didn't use mine on a VW based engine until this year.
You should buy your own!

I've probably locked over 100 different engines with that tool...

[sdoolin]

I have one of those flywheel locks.
I've had it since the mid 80s.
You can make that work on pretty much EVERYTHING!
I didn't use mine on a VW based engine until this year.
You should buy your own!

I've probably locked over 100 different engines with that tool...

Good to know, and sage advice.

[Dave_Darling]

I've used a wrench over one of the clutch mounting bolts and over one of the transmission mounting studs. For some reason, the "universal" flywheel lock didn't work that well for me, but it's been long enough ago that I don't remember the reason. (Very possibly user error.)

--DD

[sdoolin]

Just about ready to go back into the car. I know that many in the garage deride the bolt on cast CB Perf valve covers, but I am going to try them out. Imagine if I had installed my hexbar linkage (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) for the photos! I am hopeful that the "X-ring" pushrod tube seals help. I also replaced gaskets at the oil pump, and still need to replace the RMS. But I am lowering expectations from a "dry Type IV engine" to a "less wet Type IV engine".

I just really dig these little powerplants, and this one has come out great (again).

[sdoolin]

Progress has been slow. Many excuses. But very close to engine installation now. In the pic below, there are 4 wires. This is the "over engine" wiring harness that connects to the relay board with the large(ish) multiplug. Two of them go to the coil (and I even know which side of the coil each goes on), but I am not sure about the other two. One is green and red striped, the other is white. One of them is surely for the oil pressure switch. But, I am not sure which one?

[technicalninja]

Nicely done!

Really like your "shop"!

Looks cozy and clean.

That top shelf against the wall looks "Damn Interesting". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ninja.gif)

Lots of "trophies" there...


Have you thought about a "tuna can"?

https://914werke.com/shop/ols/products/mini...p/v/OIL-SMP-ASM

Puppy MIGHT save the engine in high G environment.

As it's super easy to install I consider it a MUST HAVE for these engines in a 914.

I like an AccuSump more but those are 10 times the work and cost of a Tuna Can.

I'd run a tuna can on everything, even if I also had an accusump...

[FlacaProductions]

Green/red is oil pressure sender idiot light.