Fitting Carpet at the Hand Brake.., any methods for getting a formed fit there? |
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Fitting Carpet at the Hand Brake.., any methods for getting a formed fit there? |
Literati914 |
Jan 21 2024, 10:57 AM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,461 Joined: 16-November 06 From: Dallas, TX Member No.: 7,222 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I'll be installing carpet soon - specifically it's wool German square weave, if that makes a difference. I know that the longs piece(s) typically get glued down but this is not really a stretch-able carpet from my initial impressions. I'm feeling like the hand brake area is gonna look like crap in general because the rows/lines will be distorted there, but I guess that's beside the point. Anyone have experience with (this type of) carpet in this area .. or just a good technique for getting that area to fit in the hand brake recess nicely?
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tygaboy |
Jan 21 2024, 12:33 PM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,292 Joined: 6-October 15 From: Petaluma, CA Member No.: 19,241 Region Association: Northern California |
Here's what I did. Check post # 59
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...arpet&st=40 |
Literati914 |
Jan 21 2024, 01:03 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,461 Joined: 16-November 06 From: Dallas, TX Member No.: 7,222 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Oh Ok, that doesn't look bad at all, good job! Do you remember the process/order you used specifically? - Did you spray the entire carpet length with glue, as well as the entire length of the long prior to glueing (set up period)?, Or did you glue in sections then only set the rear part first, followed by the indent without letting the front and top touch? Sorry, just trying to formulate a plan here. ps - Sorry for the word salad, I'm getting really proficient with run-on sentences (IMG:style_emoticons/default/type.gif) . |
iankarr |
Jan 21 2024, 01:09 PM
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#4
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The wrencher formerly known as Cuddy_K Group: Members Posts: 2,473 Joined: 22-May 15 From: Heber City, UT Member No.: 18,749 Region Association: Intermountain Region |
The trick is a good and strong spray adhesive. Here's what I did, much like Chris's method:
– Glue and the carpet from the backpad to the point of the indentation. Allow the glue to set up. – Spray the carpet and the indentation part on the body. – Pull firmly to the left as you smooth down the carpet a little bit at a time along the indentation. The first time I carpeted a 914 I made relief cuts at the deepest points of the e-brake indentation. Then I discovered this wasn't necessary. Good glue and a stong pull is all that's needed. |
burton73 |
Jan 21 2024, 01:13 PM
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#5
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burton73 Group: Members Posts: 3,524 Joined: 2-January 07 From: Los Angeles Member No.: 7,414 Region Association: Southern California |
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wonkipop |
Jan 21 2024, 01:22 PM
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#6
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,297 Joined: 6-May 20 From: north antarctica Member No.: 24,231 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille |
The trick is a good and strong spray adhesive. Here's what I did, much like Chris's method: – Glue and the carpet from the backpad to the point of the indentation. Allow the glue to set up. – Spray the carpet and the indentation part on the body. – Pull firmly to the left as you smooth down the carpet a little bit at a time along the indentation. The first time I carpeted a 914 I made relief cuts at the deepest points of the e-brake indentation. Then I discovered this wasn't necessary. Good glue and a stong pull is all that's needed. pretty much how i did it on my rhd car. don't try and do the whole length in one hit. i double hit the recess too. carpet and metal. i used brushed on contact adhesive. not spray. which made it easier to apply glue in sections. the original factory carpet in that section had a plastic backing that was heat formed into the shape. centre tunnel section and one of the pieces behind the seats also had same kind of backing. you won't get that these days. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) the centre tunnel section with a modern carpet kit also deserves a bit of attention when you put it in so that it takes shape nicely. i only glued that one along the sides. so i could get it up easily again it i needed to access the tunnel for shift lever adjustment etc. the factory original was not glued down. it took the form of the tunnel and just sat there. |
tygaboy |
Jan 21 2024, 01:39 PM
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#7
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,292 Joined: 6-October 15 From: Petaluma, CA Member No.: 19,241 Region Association: Northern California |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with what others have mentioned: I glued each section separately.
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Literati914 |
Jan 21 2024, 04:38 PM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,461 Joined: 16-November 06 From: Dallas, TX Member No.: 7,222 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Thanks for the tips !!
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mepstein |
Jan 21 2024, 04:43 PM
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#9
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914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,272 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Heat it with a heat gun. Beat it into shape with a rubber mallet. Non maring mallet if you aren’t using black carpet.
Love the square weave. That’s what I’m using in my ‘67. |
rgalla9146 |
Jan 21 2024, 10:17 PM
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#10
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,554 Joined: 23-November 05 From: Paramus NJ Member No.: 5,176 Region Association: None |
I had the same concerns as the OP.
I was afraid the square weave would end up wrinkled and would not conform to the recess. I took a different approach. I fabricated a fiberglass piece that conforms to the shape of the longitudinal. I'm happy with the results. I do intend to change the screws to black countersunk ones Attached thumbnail(s) |
Literati914 |
Jan 21 2024, 11:27 PM
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#11
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,461 Joined: 16-November 06 From: Dallas, TX Member No.: 7,222 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Heat it with a heat gun. Beat it into shape with a rubber mallet. Non maring mallet if you aren’t using black carpet. Love the square weave. That’s what I’m using in my ‘67. I was thinking someone might have a tip along these lines, I'll give it a try, thanks! I had the same concerns as the OP. I was afraid the square weave would end up wrinkled and would not conform to the recess. I took a different approach. I fabricated a fiberglass piece that conforms to the shape of the longitudinal. I'm happy with the results. I do intend to change the screws to black countersunk ones Wow, I like that.. If I had the same, I might cover it in my seat vinyl. You didn't happen to make a spare did ya? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) . |
Bucci |
Jan 22 2024, 02:51 AM
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#12
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Bucci Group: Members Posts: 106 Joined: 11-August 08 From: Carlsbad,Ca Member No.: 9,407 Region Association: Southern California |
I visited Autos International years ago and I noted they would install burlap cloth material first and then glue the carpet afterwards. I’m sure the burlap smooths the contoured surface and holds the glue better. A heat gun and steamer helps immensely. There work is beautiful..!
I had my 914 seats/ interor covered in green leather by them. |
Bucci |
Jan 22 2024, 02:56 AM
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#13
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Bucci Group: Members Posts: 106 Joined: 11-August 08 From: Carlsbad,Ca Member No.: 9,407 Region Association: Southern California |
I'll be installing carpet soon - specifically it's wool German square weave, if that makes a difference. I know that the longs piece(s) typically get glued down but this is not really a stretch-able carpet from my initial impressions. I'm feeling like the hand brake area is gonna look like crap in general because the rows/lines will be distorted there, but I guess that's beside the point. Anyone have experience with (this type of) carpet in this area .. or just a good technique for getting that area to fit in the hand brake recess nicely? . Pull the E- brake handle first, it will be much easier and that’s how the factory carpets were installed. (Literati914) |
bkrantz |
Jan 22 2024, 08:21 PM
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#14
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,766 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
You do have to decide where you want the rows distorted. You can have straight rows on top of the long and curved across the hand brake level recess (and below). Or the rows can be straight near the floor but curved on top of the long.
I decided to keep the rows straight on top. Attached thumbnail(s) |
Literati914 |
Jan 22 2024, 09:14 PM
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#15
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,461 Joined: 16-November 06 From: Dallas, TX Member No.: 7,222 Region Association: Southwest Region |
You do have to decide where you want the rows distorted. You can have straight rows on top of the long and curved across the hand brake level recess (and below). Or the rows can be straight near the floor but curved on top of the long. I decided to keep the rows straight on top. Good to know, 'cause I probably would have started at the bottom and worked my way to the pinch weld seam, thanks. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
rgalla9146 |
Jan 22 2024, 10:17 PM
Post
#16
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,554 Joined: 23-November 05 From: Paramus NJ Member No.: 5,176 Region Association: None |
Heat it with a heat gun. Beat it into shape with a rubber mallet. Non maring mallet if you aren’t using black carpet. Love the square weave. That’s what I’m using in my ‘67. I was thinking someone might have a tip along these lines, I'll give it a try, thanks! I had the same concerns as the OP. I was afraid the square weave would end up wrinkled and would not conform to the recess. I took a different approach. I fabricated a fiberglass piece that conforms to the shape of the longitudinal. I'm happy with the results. I do intend to change the screws to black countersunk ones Wow, I like that.. If I had the same, I might cover it in my seat vinyl. You didn't happen to make a spare did ya? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) . No, did not make a spare...but with my current schedule might happen by spring. |
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