Need help: noisy engine after over-rev Options

[emerygt350]

It's just that you can't mess up the crusty method. If you are trying to get the cylinder on the compression stroke you have a chance of not getting it right or not getting it where it is actually as loose as it can be. With the krusty method you know you have it each time.

[GregAmy]

Cap'n Krusty Method fan here, especially with a remote starter switch. I printed out his chart from this link and laminated it. I lay underneath (or work with it on the lift) and use the remote button to rotate the engine to the thereabouts right place and adjust accordingly. No reason to pop out from underneath, no thinking or worrying about the exact position of the engine.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=28758

Tangerine's no-lash chromoly pushrods makes it even easier. I can do a full readjust of all valves in 15 minutes with a screwdriver and a combo wrench.

[TheCabinetmaker]

Plus 1 on the chromolly pushrods and 911 adjusters.

[emerygt350]

I like rolling the wheels in 5th, just seems less hard on the starter. Only problem is holding the one wheel, but I have found a vice grip on the e brake on that side works great.

[DC_neun_vierzehn]

... I was able to pull the push rod out below the exhaust valve to have a look (looked fine, but I didn't know about the rolling on a flat table trick). I wasn't able to pull the push rod out for the intake because it was hitting the HE.

The pushrods should not hit the heat exchangers at all. Ever. Are you talking about the pushrod tubes? Those are not what we're talking about; the pushrods are the rods that actually push the valves open.

You have to remove the rocker arms for a cylinder to get the pushrods for that cylinder out. Remove them and roll them on a clean table top to see if any are bent. Installation can be a bit annoying, but it's easiest to put that cylinder at TDC so the valve springs aren't exerting any force on the rocker arms when you bolt the arms back onto the head. (Because 11 lb-ft isn't enough to seat the rocker arm shaft against the head when working against an open valve's spring!!) Convincing the inner end of the pushrod to stay in the lifter cup can also be annoying; I have been able to push an L-shaped Allen wrench down the pushrod tube and use the short end of the L as a fulcrum to move the inboard end of the rod up into the cup. It fell out, so I had to re-do it a few times, but eventually I got it to stay...

--DD

@Dave_Darling

Is 11 lb-ft the torque wrench setting for the nuts that hold on the rocker arms?

What about the nut on the adjuster screws?

I'm diving in on the push rods.

Hoping someone can share the torque LB for the rocker arm nuts nor the adjuster screw nuts. I cannot find anything in the Haynes manual.

@Dave_Darling
@emerygt350
@GregAmy
@TheCabinetmaker
@infraredcalvin
@mepstein
@GregAmy
@iankarr
@930cabman

[GregAmy]

Hoping someone can share the torque LB for the rocker arm nuts nor the adjuster screw nuts.

I'm not much help; mine are "just that much" tight... GA

[DC_neun_vierzehn]

So I wasn't crazy when I posted earlier that I cannot get the intake push rod out on cylinder 4. It's hitting the body/frame of the car. Should this not be happening? Any way to pull it out so I can roll it w/o without dropping the engine?

[DC_neun_vierzehn]

Hoping someone can share the torque LB for the rocker arm nuts nor the adjuster screw nuts.

I'm not much help; mine are "just that much" tight... GA

I kept digging and think I finally found the answer in the Shop Manuals online:

http://p914-6info.net/PDFs/Group%201%20Engine%20914-4.pdf

[emerygt350]

Yeah it's not much.

[Shivers]

So I wasn't crazy when I posted earlier that I cannot get the intake push rod out on cylinder 4. It's hitting the body/frame of the car. Should this not be happening? Any way to pull it out so I can roll it w/o without dropping the engine?

You don’t need much. Undo the two large bolts on the crossbar. And lower it a bit with a floor jack.

[Jack Standz]

Unseat the pushrod tube by a twisting force and pull the tube out away from the engine centerline.

The pushrod can then be removed by pushing it towards the case and out through the narrower end of the tube.

[Jack Standz]

These damage the pushrod tubes less:

https://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-adjusta...iers-70581.html

[930cabman]

Hoping someone can share the torque LB for the rocker arm nuts nor the adjuster screw nuts.

I'm not much help; mine are "just that much" tight... GA

Same with me, IFRC about 15 ft/lb.

I was once fired from a job for not using a torque wrench on a rod cap, guy was a jerk anyways

For me often times my sixth sense knows the correct amount

[emerygt350]

Hoping someone can share the torque LB for the rocker arm nuts nor the adjuster screw nuts.

I'm not much help; mine are "just that much" tight... GA

Same with me, IFRC about 15 ft/lb.

I was once fired from a job for not using a torque wrench on a rod cap, guy was a jerk anyways

For me often times my sixth sense knows the correct amount

I once tried to use a torque wrench on the dreaded strainer cap. After a few turns o was getting really nervous and realized the torque wrench was toast. I about died. Luckily I stopped in time.

I would just lower the engine a hair as mentioned above, easier than mucking with the high performance oil leak generators. I mean push rod tubes.

[Jack Standz]

Obviously, put new pushrods tube o-rings (they're like $1) in when you put the pushrod tube back in & use some sort of lubricant on the new o-ring too. Done right, they won't leak.

[DC_neun_vierzehn]

You don’t need much. Undo the two large bolts on the crossbar. And lower it a bit with a floor jack.

Ok. Never done this before. You're talking about the bolts at each end of the bar, correct? Also ... what's the torque on those when I reinstall them (the shop manuals online do not include that)?

[Shivers]

You don’t need much. Undo the two large bolts on the crossbar. And lower it a bit with a floor jack.

Ok. Never done this before. You're talking about the bolts at each end of the bar, correct? Also ... what's the torque on those when I reinstall them (the shop manuals online do not include that)?

Yes, Seems like it was 23 ft.lbs, but my memory has been suspect the past year.

[DC_neun_vierzehn]

Well boys … didn’t go as planned today.

I lowered the motor to gain access to that C4 intake pushrod, but it still would not come out - the rod was still hitting the body/frame. I took it as low as it would go after removing the 2 engine bolts/nuts (probably 3” lower). No dice.

So then I removed the S tube connected to the HE on the passenger side to gain better view of pushrod tubes … I contemplated removing that pushrod tube, but that’s a tough one to get a grip on with the exhaust header pipes and it’s sandwiched b/t other pushrod tubes pretty close. Never pulled a push rod tube before . I don’t have the tools for removal nor new seals needed for reinstall … and lacking confidence … so I held off.

Unsure of next move. Maybe it’s time to take it to a shop to assess?

[emerygt350]

Hmm, I thought it would go a hair lower without disconnecting the transmission mounts. Did you recheck the clearances?

[DC_neun_vierzehn]

Hmm, I thought it would go a hair lower without disconnecting the transmission mounts. Did you recheck the clearances?

It went down several hairs … probably 3” but still not enough. I went inch by inch lowering then checking, lowering and checking. The engine bar went down to where it wouldn’t any more (meaning I saw space between the jack pad and the engine bar after a while) and still not enough to get the rod out. It was so close but no dice.