Building Porsche 914 in Europe with some mods, Modified engine, wiring, interior - new project Options

[Pyetookh]

Hello all,
I was on historic motorcycles for years but was waiting for the right moment to switch to classic car instead. I was also searching classifieds for several years choosing the right classic car to buy. The main contenders were BMW 2002 and Porsche 914.

Unfinished project Porsche 914 appeared for sale not far away from my place some half a year ago. So I went there to have a look. Due to the personality of the seller and obvious intention to sell cheaply we agreed on buying price. Project is 75% finished and there are plenty of spare parts (He had a donor car). But some parts are missing too.
1. The main issue here is absolutely no history! The car was restored by professional car mechanic who died and all his pictures, notes, paperwork, receipts, documents are lost, stolen and missing.
2. My other problem is that I´m Central Europe based and my German is poor. So my only source of information is this forum in US. There doesn´t seem to be such enthusiastic fan base of 914s in Germany and it´s not much economical to order work and parts in Northern America for me.
3. I´m brave enough to do any welding or assembly jobs on my car but I don´t have much experience and I´m not very handy.

Despite all this I would be REALLY thankful if I get any support from well experienced guys here because I have all the commitment to bring another Porsche 914 back to the road.

This build will be for modified Porsche 914 – I would like to upgrade certain parts but rules for historic cars are stupidly strict in my country

I will really appreciate your help with the following:
1. There is 2.0 refurbished T2 bus engine in the car. That will be removed and sold as it is. From all the spare parts I have I would like to build 2056cc engine using my 1.7 crankcase and 1.8 heads (will need to source 2.0 crankshaft and rods, the right camshaft, 40 Webbers, 96 cylinders and pistons).
2. Car electrics – One is in the car but seems to be a bit messy. I have a complete spare one but it´s far from being perfect. I would like to remove FI wiring and add central locking, electric windows, DLR, intermittent wipers, electric windscreen washer
3. Car body is sound and recently resprayed. But I don´t like the colour and the rear wheel arches. Therefore it will be converted to GT flares, will be lowered and go on 16” 205/225 wheels. I would like to weld some reinforcement into the tub.
4. Car interior will need to be done from scratch – All the door window and targa roof trim and seals is missing. I want more like Sheel sport seats. Dashboard to be assembled. Foot pedals to be assembled and connected. New carpets installed.
5. I search for reliable and cheap European parts suppliers

So this is my mission and this is my car

Thank you and have a great day everyone

[mepstein]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

[Shivers]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Congratulations. I can’t help with European parts suppliers, but we have members a lot closer to you than I am. Eventually they will jump in. We also have some fella’s here that are more international than I am and may have vacationed out your way and toured a facility that can help. I see what you mean about the rear flares, the world can always use another GT clone. A lot of 911 parts, as seen on the 914-6 will bolt up. The whole darn front suspension is one of these parts. Have fun with your build

[didenpx]

Greetings to Czechia!

[chmillman]

My other problem is that I´m Central Europe based and my German is poor. So my only source of information is this forum in US. There doesn´t seem to be such enthusiastic fan base of 914s in Germany and it´s not much economical to order work and parts in Northern America for me.

Despite all this I would be REALLY thankful if I get any support from well experienced guys here because I have all the commitment to bring another Porsche 914 back to the road.

I can't help you with the non-stock stuff much but...

Here you can find a list of 914 suppliers, there is a European section...



I have ordered from Partworks.de, 9xxTeile.com in Germany, RosePassion in France (they ship pretty much everywhere, they are not listed in the European section, but further up) and some others. You may also find some stuff will still be best ordered in the US, despite the expensive shipping involved.

Good luck!

[Cairo94507]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) Welcome to the World. It looks like you are starting off with a decent chassis from the pictures. Have you already checked the underside and the suspension pick-up points, hell-hole, etc., to be sure the chassis is solid? The parts are definitely out there but your location will be problematic and likely make shipping expensive. But patience is the key. Good luck and enjoy the journey. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Superhawk996]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

This one will be a fun one to watch it come back from its hacked up state. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[Pyetookh]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) Welcome to the World. It looks like you are starting off with a decent chassis from the pictures. Have you already checked the underside and the suspension pick-up points, hell-hole, etc., to be sure the chassis is solid? The parts are definitely out there but your location will be problematic and likely make shipping expensive. But patience is the key. Good luck and enjoy the journey. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Yep. I went around the whole car with electronic paint thickness measuring device. It´s below 1mm evewhere I looked apart from left rear flare. Surface to metal is around 1.5mm there so I expect some filler underneath.
Hell hole and all the other critical places are sound.
There was probably some frontal damage in the past because spare wheel well is not very smooth.
The only area of concern is targa roof. The gap between targa roof and windscreen is 10mm bigger on the right compared to the left. Not sure if the whole car is twisted or just the windscreen frame.

[Puebloswatcop]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

[Pyetookh]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/14.gif) Thank you for all the welcomes and support. Will check all the potential suppliers now.

[Pyetookh]

Gentlemen, can someone advise me how to get around 100 HP or a bit more from Type 4 engine without using crazy expensive 71mm crankshaft, please? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)
71mm Porsche crankshaft, rods and 2.0heads are crazy expensive in Europe.

I "inherrited" 1.7L and 1.8L crankcases, 66mm crankshaft with related rods, 1.7L and 1.8L heads, brand new Mahle (Brazil) 94mm barrels and dished pistons for T2 engine (78mm).
Can get my hands on 78mm crank and rods, ready to buy Webbers and big bore barrels.

Would the following work together, please?
1. 66mm crankshaft + 1.8L heads + 96mm barrels + IDF 40 Webbers
2. 78mm crankshaft + 1.8L heads + 94mm barrels (dished pistons) + IDF 40 (or 44) Webbers
3. Other options?

My goal is at least 100Hp, reasonable fuel consumption and reliability, obviously cost. Like to drive fast (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) without paying too much.

Any advice is very welcome. Thank you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/head_hurts_kr.gif)

[bkrantz]

Let me add my welcome. Your car looks like a great starting point. I endorse your strategy for a resto-mod with some new features that you want. You should build the car the way you like.

A couple of suggestions:

For the wiring harness you can certainly add to it for other features. And in the engine compartment, most of the fuel injection wiring is a separate harness and easy to leave out. I suggest you lay out the original main harness on a big table, label every connection (and check them). And then carefully plan all additional wires--but spend enough time planning so it comes out correct. Then wrap the revised harness so it looks like the original.

For 100 hp, I can't advise on a 1.7 or 1.8, but my intuition tells me it can be done. I have only owned 914s with 2.0 motors, either stock or enhanced. My current 2056 (96 mm pistons and cylinders, custom heads, camshaft, twin body FI and electronic ignition, higher compression ratio, etc.) makes 125 hp on a dynamometer.

By the way, I am a real fan of CZ firearms. Between my son and me we own 3 rifles and I just ordered another.

[Pyetookh]

Let me add my welcome. Your car looks like a great starting point. I endorse your strategy for a resto-mod with some new features that you want. You should build the car the way you like.

A couple of suggestions:

For the wiring harness you can certainly add to it for other features. And in the engine compartment, most of the fuel injection wiring is a separate harness and easy to leave out. I suggest you lay out the original main harness on a big table, label every connection (and check them). And then carefully plan all additional wires--but spend enough time planning so it comes out correct. Then wrap the revised harness so it looks like the original.

For 100 hp, I can't advise on a 1.7 or 1.8, but my intuition tells me it can be done. I have only owned 914s with 2.0 motors, either stock or enhanced. My current 2056 (96 mm pistons and cylinders, custom heads, camshaft, twin body FI and electronic ignition, higher compression ratio, etc.) makes 125 hp on a dynamometer.

By the way, I am a real fan of CZ firearms. Between my son and me we own 3 rifles and I just ordered another.

Greetings to Colorado and thank you for your support (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Yes. FI harness is seperate and easily removable.
I have a complete spare harness which I´m going to rework on the table as you suggested. Then it will replace the one inside my car. That will be some challenge.
Just wondering if someone has already tried to make his own modified wiring diagram to make it a bit easier for me. Are there any modern voltage regulators or other parts worth replacing to make the electrics more reliable?

Your engine is serious piece of kit. Must be fun to drive such car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
I spent some time reading a few forums last night to collect info on 1.8 big bore builds. Got only very vague information that it can be done but you need to take into account some extra heat, find the right cam, count compression ratio and shim cylinders etc. Someone recommended not to exceed 8.5:1 CR. And that was it. No more details.

I thinking to go for these:
original 66mm crank and rods
1.8L heads
1.7L crankcase (code W)
barrels https://www.design911.com/p/cylinder-kit--b...ource=doofinder
pistons https://www.design911.com/p/piston-set--fla...ource=doofinder
IDF 40 Webbers
Don´t know what cam to choose
What do you think, folks? Can such setup provide any good powerplant?

I like there is a little link between Colorado and Czech Republic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/gunner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I´ve never been to Colorado but visited Colorado River at least some 10 years ago (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[krazykonrad]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

[Shivers]

Don´t know what cam to choose
What do you think, folks? Can such setup provide any good powerplant?

You might want to look into having some work done to those heads. Lots of horse power can be had or lost with the head work. Once you know what you are going to do, for example open the exhaust port clean up the intake and larger valves. This will affect your flow numbers. This link will take you to a place that can hear what you are putting together and sell you the correct cam and lifters. You can get your valve springs and pretty much anything you’ll need for this build at this place.

https://lnengineering.com/type-4-store.html?limit=all

@Pyetookh

[bkrantz]

Let me add my welcome. Your car looks like a great starting point. I endorse your strategy for a resto-mod with some new features that you want. You should build the car the way you like.

A couple of suggestions:

For the wiring harness you can certainly add to it for other features. And in the engine compartment, most of the fuel injection wiring is a separate harness and easy to leave out. I suggest you lay out the original main harness on a big table, label every connection (and check them). And then carefully plan all additional wires--but spend enough time planning so it comes out correct. Then wrap the revised harness so it looks like the original.

For 100 hp, I can't advise on a 1.7 or 1.8, but my intuition tells me it can be done. I have only owned 914s with 2.0 motors, either stock or enhanced. My current 2056 (96 mm pistons and cylinders, custom heads, camshaft, twin body FI and electronic ignition, higher compression ratio, etc.) makes 125 hp on a dynamometer.

By the way, I am a real fan of CZ firearms. Between my son and me we own 3 rifles and I just ordered another.

Greetings to Colorado and thank you for your support (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Yes. FI harness is seperate and easily removable.
I have a complete spare harness which I´m going to rework on the table as you suggested. Then it will replace the one inside my car. That will be some challenge.
Just wondering if someone has already tried to make his own modified wiring diagram to make it a bit easier for me. Are there any modern voltage regulators or other parts worth replacing to make the electrics more reliable?

Your engine is serious piece of kit. Must be fun to drive such car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
I spent some time reading a few forums last night to collect info on 1.8 big bore builds. Got only very vague information that it can be done but you need to take into account some extra heat, find the right cam, count compression ratio and shim cylinders etc. Someone recommended not to exceed 8.5:1 CR. And that was it. No more details.

I thinking to go for these:
original 66mm crank and rods
1.8L heads
1.7L crankcase (code W)
barrels https://www.design911.com/p/cylinder-kit--b...ource=doofinder
pistons https://www.design911.com/p/piston-set--fla...ource=doofinder
IDF 40 Webbers
Don´t know what cam to choose
What do you think, folks? Can such setup provide any good powerplant?

I like there is a little link between Colorado and Czech Republic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/gunner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I´ve never been to Colorado but visited Colorado River at least some 10 years ago (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

You need to get the color version of the wiring schematic diagram for your year car. Somebody on 914 World has a link to a page with most of the schematics. You can consider a modern voltage regulator and some LED light bulbs.

Sorry I can't advise you on the 1.8 build, but others on the site can--right guys?

[chmillman]

You need to get the color version of the wiring schematic diagram for your year car. Somebody on 914 World has a link to a page with most of the schematics.

Anyone have a color diagram for a non-USA ‘73 or ‘74? All I have found are USA ones and the Euro model wiring is somewhat different.

[Pyetookh]

Gentlemen, can anyone give more information from my ID plate, please? I only know this is 1971 1.7L. There are no other plates or labels on my car and it´s repainted in black.
Thank you

[chmillman]

Gentlemen, can anyone give more information from my ID plate, please? I only know this is 1971 1.7L. There are no other plates or labels on my car and it´s repainted in black.
Thank you

It would be helpful to have the body number... Normally on a "Karmann" plate on the drivers side forward door jamb, which also has the original color number. If you say that plate is missing, you might also find the body number stamped into the sheet metal of the floor of the rear trunk under the carpet. It's not extremely visible, here's what mine looks like:



The body number can be decoded to find the date of maunfacture. Otherwise, with the complete VIN number (including the last numbers blacked out), maybe one of the historians can provide more info.

[Pyetookh]

Gentlemen, can anyone give more information from my ID plate, please? I only know this is 1971 1.7L. There are no other plates or labels on my car and it´s repainted in black.
Thank you

It would be helpful to have the body number... Normally on a "Karmann" plate on the drivers side forward door jamb, which also has the original color number. If you say that plate is missing, you might also find the body number stamped into the sheet metal of the floor of the rear trunk under the carpet. It's not extremely visible, here's what mine looks like:



The body number can be decoded to find the date of maunfacture. Otherwise, with the complete VIN number (including the last numbers blacked out), maybe one of the historians can provide more info.

Fantastic! Thank you for your reply.
Yes. Unfortunately "Karmann" plate is gone. But I´ll try to locate the stamped body number.
I´m very sorry, wasn´t sure if posting full VIN number is a good practice here.
Here´s my full VIN if "historians" can do their magic.