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> Taped or cone shaped tubing for exhaust?, any tips on making this from flat stock?
Mueller
post Nov 10 2005, 06:16 PM
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For the turbo, I need to go from a 2.125" ID to a 1.5" ID from the header collector to the turbocharger.

I cannot find anything off the shelf with these odd sizes so I looks like I'll be making something.....think a sheetmetal roller will make this?


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Aaron Cox
post Nov 10 2005, 06:18 PM
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post a pic of your turbo. plz

it doesnt have a flat base that BOLTS on to a flange?

seems losing an inch in ID would kill some performance.... turbo too small?
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jd74914
post Nov 10 2005, 06:24 PM
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QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Nov 10 2005, 07:18 PM)
post a pic of your turbo. plz

it doesnt have a flat base that BOLTS on to a flange?

seems losing an inch in ID would kill some performance.... turbo too small?

You could weld the flange onto that piece (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)



wouldn't loosing an inch actually force the gases into the turbo at a higher pressure so it would spool better?
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Andyrew
post Nov 10 2005, 06:25 PM
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Spooling.... Please wait
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he wants spool up...

Looks doable to me...

as long as the sheetmetal can hold the pressure and heat without warping to bad.
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Aaron Cox
post Nov 10 2005, 06:27 PM
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sorry, im a turBONEHEAD


also.... wouldnt that create excess backpressure?
and as raby said, the exhaust is the limiting factor of power....

just thinking aloud.
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Mueller
post Nov 10 2005, 06:31 PM
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turbo next to 1"x2"x3" block for comparison

according to the data I have, it's good for close to 170hp (while still being efficient)...since it's going on a bone stock 1.8, I'll be well under that limit


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Mueller
post Nov 10 2005, 06:33 PM
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QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Nov 10 2005, 05:27 PM)
sorry, im a turBONEHEAD


also.... wouldnt that create excess backpressure?
and as raby said, the exhaust is the limiting factor of power....

just thinking aloud.

I think most of Jakes turbo applications are also pushing the limits....I'm looking just for a few more bolt-on ponies, not trying to break any records...I'm sure they'll be flaws in the design and execution, but hey, thats part of the fun....
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Andyrew
post Nov 10 2005, 06:37 PM
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It would put more pressure through the turbo spooling it up much quicker...

btw for refference, the stock 944 turbo's inlet for the turbo is just under 2in. and it spools up at 2.5k-3k depending on gear and load.

Im guessing this turbo would be efficient from 2.5k to 5.5k... due to the smaller motor.

Im sure mike ran the numbers..
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TimT
post Nov 10 2005, 07:17 PM
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ummm Burns use one of these, then get a stainless pipe reducer or bushing from somewhere like McMaster cut the Burns transition where it matches the dimension you need...
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TimT
post Nov 10 2005, 07:19 PM
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double oops, just get the burns RD150 its 1.5" on one end and 2.5 on the other cut off where it is 2.125" and make up the rest of the length with straight tube
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Trekkor
post Nov 10 2005, 07:55 PM
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I just came from the plumbing isle, I wish I saw this first. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/chairfall.gif)




sorry... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/unsure.gif)
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McMark
post Nov 10 2005, 08:17 PM
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QUOTE (Mueller @ Nov 10 2005, 04:31 PM)
according to the data I have, it's good for close to 170hp (while still being efficient)...since it's going on a bone stock 1.8, I'll be well under that limit

One word...... BOOOOOST!!! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/av-943.gif)

Just kidding you Mike.

Hey, wait a second, just cast something. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) Or CNC mill it. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

I think I'm done joking..... sooooo, how thick of sheet metal are you thinking? I know you can get adapter exhaust tubing, but it's more of a step down than a taper.
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McMark
post Nov 10 2005, 08:18 PM
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What you really need are some sort of heads with extra cooling to handle your tubo induced heat.. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/idea.gif)
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Mueller
post Nov 10 2005, 09:25 PM
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QUOTE (TimT @ Nov 10 2005, 06:19 PM)
double oops, just get the burns RD150 its 1.5" on one end and 2.5 on the other cut off where it is 2.125" and make up the rest of the length with straight tube

didn't want to spend 21 bucks, but it'll save me the time and hassle of trying make my own...thanks
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ChrisFoley
post Nov 10 2005, 11:48 PM
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QUOTE (Mueller @ Nov 10 2005, 10:25 PM)
didn't want to spend 21 bucks, but it'll save me the time and hassle of trying make my own...thanks

Buying one from Burns will be about the cheapest way to get one of those. I don't think you can roll something like that in a slip roller - the id is too small.
I have a taper mandrel for my stub pipes but it only goes from 1 1/2" up to 1 3/4". It takes a lot of pressure to push the mandrel into a piece of .065" wall SS tubing.
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bhfast
post Nov 11 2005, 11:02 AM
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mike, what turbo are you using
B
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fiid
post Nov 11 2005, 11:14 AM
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I think your approach is viable apart from the shaping side. I bet you can buy something that will save you the effort though.

One place where you will need to do this is on the output of the turbo. Ideally you are going to want quite a large pipe on the turbo output and then taper down to your output pipe size. This helps create turbulent flow - which is good (according to the turbo book I have (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif) ).


BTW - if anyone wants to do a turbo project I have 3 turbos at home that would be suitable for a 914 motor.

Fiid.
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Hydra
post Nov 11 2005, 11:25 AM
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QUOTE (jd74914 @ Nov 11 2005, 03:24 AM)

You could weld the flange onto that piece (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)



wouldn't loosing an inch actually force the gases into the turbo at a higher pressure so it would spool better?

Turbodynamics laws say that if you taper it, it would actually have a HIGHER velocity but a LOWER pressure, bernoully's law IIRC. but i hink a turbo needs higher gas velocity and not pressure... right?
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Mueller
post Nov 11 2005, 11:36 AM
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QUOTE (bhfast @ Nov 11 2005, 10:02 AM)
mike, what turbo are you using
B

It is a stock replacement turbo from a Mitsubishi GT3000/Dodge Stealth Twin Turbo V6

Since I have 2 turbos, I am making 2 of everything with hopes this works pretty well and some other sucker, err I mean 914 person* would want to purchase the other one as a Mickey Mouse Engineering kit (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/screwy.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif)


*it'll offered to a members son here 1st since his dad is helping with the laser cutting of some of the parts.....
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bhfast
post Nov 11 2005, 11:44 AM
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are you just plugging the water cooled veins to the bearing section, using oil only? or using some kind of water cooling for the turbos also. I working on a twin turbo six set-up, and have not figured out if I will run extra cooling yet. I'm looking at those stealth turbos, as well as garrett gt15 and kkk ko3's. money will probably be the determining factor.
B
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