Problems with second gear..., it suddenly crunches Options

[jari-jodokus]

Hello , this is my first appearance here...so i hope i have done it properly.

I have a '75 914 , 'sideshifter' .Pretty sudden my second gear (coming down from 5,4,3) crunches and i have to wait a few seconds...and then it goes well.
So normally it is the synchro....? Or is it really posible that some clutch problems can cause this?(Why not the other gears?) , and coming out of the first gear there are no problems at all.
I think the synchro is worn , please confirm...i am not that experienced and there is no 914-forum anymore in Holland snif snif.
Thanks and greetings from the Netherlands!
Kees Blom , Apeldoorn , Holland

By the way this fellow called 'Brad' is the reason i am now really driving it in stead of selling it in an early restoration-stage.....i will allways be gratefull...and my FI works perfectly , for 100 dollar only , thanks to his site and advice!

[redshift]

Yes, sounds like it.

Double clutch, and fix it very soon.

2nd is the most 'shifted into' gear, and usually has problems first, with normal wear.


M

[jari-jodokus]

Oke , thanks a lot for the quick answer ... i just use the third gear now when slowing down.
Is it an expensive repair?

(by the way , his name is Paul Brad Anders)

[airsix]

You could also need a clutch cable adjustement. If it has started doing this "suddenly" it would be a good idea to inspect the condition of the clutch tube where it comes out of the firewall (engine compartment) and where it is attached inside the tunnel next to the shifter.

Even baddly worn synchros won't cause excessive grinding if the clutch is fully releasing.

-Ben M.

[mightyohm]

Also make sure you're not nicking reverse. I had one of the set screws in my shift linkage back out and for a while I started nicking reverse badly until finally the screw fell out...

[URY914]

Yes, I agree-check the set screw where the rod and the trany connect. If that screw is loose it will grind everytime. It is a set screw with a long tapered end on it. It holds it all together.

Paul

[Brad Roberts]

The "other" Brad....

Welcome to the board...

Second gear slider/syncros requires some major surgery on the tranny. The gear stack has to come off of the intermediate plate to replace second gear slider and synchro's.

The lower two arrows point to the slider and the dog teeth. You can some times find good used slider (the tranny uses the same one for 4th/5th gear) Please replace everything when you go in. New slider/synchro rings/dog teeth.


B

[jari-jodokus]

Great answers! Thanks a lot...i will try all suggestions and use the tips.

[Bleyseng]

I'd first adjust the clutch and check the tranny fluid level. If its running low or empty the gears are harder to downshift without noise.

IF that doesn't fix it, take it apart as Brad R says. I just did it a few months ago and its not too hard.

Geoff

[jari-jodokus]

I tried everything here suggested......all is oke so it is in the transmission .... new synchro's etc.

OR : is it easy job to change the whole transmission after dismounting the engine , i can get one (tranny?)with very low milage for 500 euro (=500 dollar)?

[Bleyseng]

Actually Redbeard has an article for just removing the gear stack (what you see in the pic posted by Brad) while it is in the car.
This is the easy way to fix the gears, as you leave the diff and the CV joints and the tranny case still in the car!
Then you just need some syncho's ($50 ea US) and a gasket set. A new dogteeth for second gear is a good bet too.
So for:
2 syncho's for 1st and 2nd gear- $100
2 new dogteeth for 1st and 2nd- $200
Gasket set-$40
Shift bushing-$40
That would be a decent rebuilt tranny with no drips or leaks! This can be done it a day if you have all the parts already.

Geoff

[Brad Roberts]

DONT leave it in the car. You stand a 80% chance that your going to screw the input shaft seal up while you try and balance 40 lbs of gears and line up the input shaft.

Ask me how I know.... its NO fun putting one back together this way to only to find out the input shaft broke the seal and PUKES gear lube after you start it up. Its not worth it. Pull the tranny and support the engine.

B

[Bleyseng]

Hey Brad, some of us don't have a complete shop to do work on our cars. Hell yes, pull the tranny if you have the room and the space. The pulling of the gear stack is a easy way if you are a on the driveway mechanic.
Definately watch how you put the stack back in as you can toast the seal.

Geoff

[Brad Roberts]

Oh.. Dont give me that crap (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif) I have laid on my back in 3 inches of snow at Mid Ohio Sports car course to pull tranny's. The next year it was raining instead of snowing. It taught me to NEVER attend the Runoffs with a open trailer.


LOL


B

[Bleyseng]

Some people haave to do it the hard way! lol

If you saw my garage where I work on the 914 you would laugh soo hard..
Karl saw it, it isn't even close to a distant cousin of Brad Ander's beautiful shop.
If you can walk by on one side of the car when its in there is good.

Alright, if you have the time and the place pull the effin tranny, replace ALL of the seals and gaskets, CV gaskets, repack the CV's, new CV bolts, replace the tranny mounts, ALL new shift bushings, new sliders for 1st and second gear, replace the bearings in the intermediate plate, on and on it goes.

Geoff

[Demick]

I second Brads mandate not to try and pull the gear stack with the transmission in the car. I would say there is a 99% chance you will screw up the input shaft seal. It is next to impossible to insert the input shaft exactly through the seal. If you miss by a little bit, one or both of the following will happen: If your input shaft seal is old and dry, you will crack it and end up with a leak. If your input shaft seal is fairly new and soft, you will pop the spring which is inside of the seal out of place and it will end up floating around in your transmission.

With the transmission out of the car, inserting the gear stack into the housing is easier, but you still stand a 75% chance of having the same problem with the input shaft. But at least with the transmission out of the car, you can (and should) replace the input shaft seal. Remove the old seal with the gear stack out. Dont insert the new one until the gear stack is in. If you replace the seal before the gear stack is in, you will almost certainly knock the spring out of place upon gear stack insertion.

Demick
'74 2.0

[jari-jodokus]

Oke oke.....ha ha , nice conversation but is it easy to change a whole transmission(housing) , and if you allready told me , excuse but i do not understand all the technical terms....
Can the engine stay in? I have a garage with just enough space , so anything can be done....but Haynes is not clear enough for me.
But i am learing a lot and know what to do when i revise my own transmission (you call it tranny?) , thanks a lot!!

[Brad Roberts]

You can leave the engine in the car. You must support the engine with a single stand.

I personally remove the 4 M6 bolts that hold the rubber transmission mounts to the body instead of removing the larger M10 bolts that hold the transmission to the mounts (when I remove only the tranny from the engine)

I also find it easier to remove the 4 bolts from the mounts and drop the rear of the tranny about 2 inches. The front rubber mounts can handle this NO problem. Then remove the tranny. This will make it easier going back in with the tranny (I use the word tranny because I'm lazy and its easier to type than transmission.


B

[Bleyseng]

Leave the engine in (supported) and pull the tranny (transmisson) then set it on a table to work on.

[JWest]

I personally remove the 4 M6 bolts that hold the rubber transmission mounts to the body

Uhh, you meant to say M8.