 alternatives to POR?, any other favorites? |
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| brer |
 Dec 12 2005, 09:56 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member  Group: Members Posts: 2,555 Joined: 10-March 05 From: san diego Member No.: 3,736 Region Association: None  |
just considering my options.
i'd like to strip and paint the underside, gray or black. also the engine compartment. Gray maybe. any other good products? save some $$>? spend some more $$? |
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| Jeroen |
Dec 12 2005, 10:50 PM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,887 Joined: 24-December 02 From: The Netherlands Member No.: 3 Region Association: Europe |
no experience with it, but this may be an option
http://www.rustbullet.com/ |
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| Lou W |
Dec 12 2005, 11:23 PM
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#3
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"Here Kitty Kitty" my ass...... Group: Members Posts: 4,109 Joined: 9-May 04 From: Roseburg, OR. Member No.: 2,039 Region Association: Spain |
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif) Thats what I used, very happy with the results. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif) |
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| Rand |
Dec 13 2005, 11:49 AM
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#4
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Cross Member Group: Members Posts: 7,409 Joined: 8-February 05 From: OR Member No.: 3,573 Region Association: None |
Hammerite Rust Cap rocks. By the gallon or spray can.
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| dmenche914 |
Dec 13 2005, 02:36 PM
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#5
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,212 Joined: 27-February 03 From: California Member No.: 366 |
Uhm, Rust Bullet is a new one too me, saw the website, Not much technical stuff on how this works. I still don't know if it actually stops and nuetralizes the rust under it or not. You can paint over rust with about any paint, and if thick enough it will last a while, I am not imp[ressed with before and after photos of rust, then new paint. I really like to see that surface (and a control surface) after accelerated exposure. from what I saw, the accelerated tests were done on non-rusted panels. It looks like it might be a good barrier, but too me the jury is still out on it stopping existing rust over time.
To really "fix" rust I think removal and nuetralization, followed by a good primer / paint is the best bet. remove rust with blasting, sanding, wire brush, or chemicals, then nuetralize, and convert any remaining rust to prevent reoccurance. Nothing beats complete bare metal rust removal, then a good coating. Rust Bullett claims it is different than the other rust paints, and has two patents, why praytell does the website not explain how it works (ie what chemicals or reactiosn are taking place)? Born a skeptic I guess, So it was devoloped from paint for jet fighter wing tips???? What's that have to do with rusty automotive steel? I have seen plenty of repairs on rust that are re-rusting cause the rust under was not removed or nuetralized, even under POR-15. Smoke and mirrors, so get out that bead blaster and clean up the rust before using any magic rust stoppers. My humble opinion. |
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| Lou W |
Dec 13 2005, 02:50 PM
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#6
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"Here Kitty Kitty" my ass...... Group: Members Posts: 4,109 Joined: 9-May 04 From: Roseburg, OR. Member No.: 2,039 Region Association: Spain |
I applied "Metal Prep" first, (to nutralize the rust) then applied Rust Bullet over it after the Metal Prep dried. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)
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| Eric_Shea |
Dec 13 2005, 02:57 PM
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#7
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,275 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains  |
I like Zero-Rust when it comes to spray applications.
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