 goint to a SIX, a few questions |
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| SLITS |
 Dec 24 2005, 12:27 PM
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#41
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!"  Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None   |
Looks like Maddog removed his post in the Resources Section for his "copy" of the RJ bulkhead mount.
Quick Six mount has same problems as a 4 mount....it hangs down and you can whack crap with it. My reason for a bulkhead. |
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| grasshopper |
Dec 24 2005, 01:22 PM
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#42
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,613 Joined: 10-December 04 From: Valdosta, GA Member No.: 3,258 Region Association: None |
ok, one more question, this one is about wiring... what is the best way to wire the engine? can i make my own wiring?? can someone post a pic of the 914-6 engine wiring diagram?? the engine harness is all corroded, and need to be replaced with something... Thanks (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ph34r.gif)
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| Trekkor |
Dec 24 2005, 08:15 PM
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#43
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I do things... Group: Members Posts: 7,809 Joined: 2-December 03 From: Napa, Ca Member No.: 1,413 Region Association: Northern California |
I think the "Quick Six" mount is the one from Motor Miester.
The PMS bar is like a roll bar with tabs on it. Allows you to use the 911 sport motor mounts, too. My comment about going back to a FOUR was a joke...Mostly (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/dry.gif) If I do blow up my SIX, I do have options. BTW, the bar mount doesn't drag, headers and air disturbing flaps are the same height or lower. KT Attached image(s) 
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| SLITS |
Dec 24 2005, 11:09 PM
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#44
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
Well KT, the bar I'm talkin' about is an early 4 bar with the /6 engine mount welded on it. The flaps are flexible, the bar isn't and as low as I am the bar catches shit (speed bumps, etc), but the HE's don't hit.....this experience is on a 4 banger......
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| Trekkor |
Dec 24 2005, 11:42 PM
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#45
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I do things... Group: Members Posts: 7,809 Joined: 2-December 03 From: Napa, Ca Member No.: 1,413 Region Association: Northern California |
The only parts* of my car that ever scrape on a speed bump are the bolts for my sub-belt. My car is one of the lower ones as well.
If I pull off the side of the road and there is a low shoulder, I've nicked the headers. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/dry.gif) Just telling my story (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) KT * Sweeper Air Dam doesn't count (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) |
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| thesey914 |
Dec 25 2005, 03:51 AM
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#46
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Senior Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 1,155 Joined: 1-January 03 From: Staffordshire -England Member No.: 66 |
trek -like the orange heads.. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/cool.gif)
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| brant |
Dec 26 2005, 10:22 AM
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#47
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 11,623 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains 
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James, it even easier than that. to do a valve adjustment this is all I have to remove: 1x right rear air horn and air cleaner 1x shift linkage bar 1x clamp that I screwed into the chassis to hold the extra oil line up out of the way 4x 13mm nuts and bolts that hold the rear tranny mounts on. that is it! don't have to remove the exhaust. don't remove the clutch cable don't remove the throttle cable don't unhook any electrical connections don't unhook any oil lines. when we designed the lines and cables we routed them in such a way as to accomodate this. It is supper easy to tip the motor for valve adjustments. To be honest, this is the ONLY reason we went with this mount. It takes longer to drain the oil than it does to tip the motor for valves. I'll bet we adjusted the valves 7 - 10 times this last summer. (new motor) brant |
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| J P Stein |
Dec 26 2005, 11:05 AM
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#48
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Irrelevant old fart Group: Members Posts: 8,797 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Vancouver, WA Member No.: 45 Region Association: None |
I have a system. Actual working time is 4-6 hours. What tight quarters? A 90 deg bend in your feeler gauge and proper tools. I do it yearly when the car is up on blocks....may do it today, in fact. As Brant says, I remove nuthin' but the cam covers & engine lid. |
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| Mueller |
Dec 26 2005, 11:40 AM
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#49
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 17,146 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None
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the six engine wiring harness should be very simple: 2 wires for the coil (copy /4) oil temp (copy /4) oil pressure (copy /4) check out the blog from lapuwali, he has a excellent wiring diagram write-up with the pinouts you'll need or want. you might as well go with as much new wiring/connectors as you can to help eliminate electrical gremlins in the future |
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