L-jet wiring at coil Options

[bd1308]

its not on the FI harness but off of the dual relay...

it comes out of that split between where it goes left (toward the relay board) and right (toward where I have the dual relay).

b

[Aaron Cox]

pictures can help us help you...

help us....help you.....


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[r_towle]

ok, the entire wiring harness that enables your FI system is called the FI wiring harness.

On mine (a 74 ljet)
the place where the brown wire leaves the wiring covering...the black plastic tube.....it at the same place all the coil wires coe out and the oil pressure sender.

That brown wire is grounded to the main ground connector at the top of the case, on the passenger side rear of the motor, it is using a case bolt just like djet. That is a five spade connector.

The yellow wire that appears there, but does not leave the tubing is going back to the relay board (the one behind the driver)

Rich

[JeffBowlsby]

Does the yellow wire have a 1/4" wide long-blade male wire terminal? If so it should go to the TS2 (head temp sensor).

[bd1308]

here's a pic. I dont even have spark now, and I had it yesterday.

The spade connector is laying in the relay board now, so i doubt it wouls stretch to the other side of the engine. Everything is there, and it *SHOULD* work, but i get neither spark nor fuel and i have voltage in all the right places.

[r_towle]

start simple.
Do you have power to the coil, key on?

If so, with a test light, you need to test your points to make sure they are stil ok...


The way you said you were plugging things in and testing it live makes me scared you might have shorted something out...

Make sure the CHT is plugged in.
Make sure all your grounds are plugges in.

if you dont have power to the coil, you need to back up and deal with that first.

Rich

[bd1308]

i do have power to the coil, 12V at one end and the points on the other end. What blows my mind is that i dont get a spark, as verified by my timing light, although it could be a bad timing light. I definately dont get fuel....believe me, i have my multimeter sitting on the back trunk and ive been using it....


b

[r_towle]

get a test light.

I believe you may have power to the coil.

You cannot test the points with a multimeter.
they do not provide enough resistance.

I had this problem also and it was purely related to setting the points up correctly.

We also changed the coil to another one and it had spark.
Might be a bad coil, or you may have killed it by plugging in the leads to the wrong side or backwards...

Not sure...but the coil sounds bad.
You can make it fire
key on /power to coil with a jumper.
turn distributor to make point close and open...get it just close to opening...
I use an old plug and an old plug lead, plug the lead into the coil, plug the plug in to the other end...ground the body of the plug to the fan shroud...
use leather or rubber gloves to hold it...it will hurt.
turn dizzy back and forth opening and closing the points to get the coil to fire..

you could have shorted the coil, shorted the condensor, or burned the points so bad that they will not carry the juice.

If you have a test light, you can check you point coil and condensor with a test light...each have different tests...
These tests cannot be done with a multimeter...there is not enough resistance...

You can make a test light with a 12V single filament bulb, some wire and a soldering gun/tape...

Rich

[bd1308]

i have two sets of everything, two coils and two dizzy's...one of each was in the box of stuff i recieved....

i have *NO CLUE* what's going on...but those black wires have 12V on them.

i'll try the test light idea.

b

[r_towle]

pull a plug wire, connect it to an old plug, ground it out and check for a spark.

If no spark, you need to work backwards.

If you have power to the coil you are not getting it through to the spark plug.

There are aonly three things to check now.

Points
Condensor
Coil

Rich

[bd1308]

okay i pulled a plug and voila! i have spark....

so how do i get the FI to work now?

b

[r_towle]

so, with a test light.

mount one side of test light to positive side of coil
mount the other side to ground.
Key to on position.
if light works you have power to the coil.

I know you did this with the multi meter...just do it with a light to both test the light and double check your readings...you may read 12v, but if the light is dim, you dont have enough amps...

Points/condensor testing

now take the test light lead that is connected to the positive side of the coil and move it to the negative side of the coil
remove the HD coil wire to the dizzy cap
remove cap and turn motor by hand.
the light should light up every time the points open..

test all four dizzy cam lobes to make sure you have no short in the dizzy.

if that is not the case, if the light does not light , and the points are clean and there is no crap in them, you need a condensor.

you can confirm the condesor test by putting the test light inline.
Unplug the green wire going to the negative side of the coil.
put the test light in that circuit and turn the motor over by hand with the key on.
the light should light, if not, you have a bad condensor.

Coil testing.

Put everything back together,,, rotor and all. (please tell me that you have a rotor...I have forgotten that more than once...)
Pull the coil wire from the center of the distributor cap.

hold the coil wire 1/8 inch away from a good ground.
this is the leather glove part (it does hurt)
turn motor by hand

if spark is blue/blue white/white you have a good coil
If spark is yellow and strong, you will need a new coil, but it will work for now
If spark is weak, or no spark, you need a new coil.

Rich

[bd1308]

and does somebody have a relay board pic of a L-jet car so I can dismiss the yellow wire from causing the problem?

b

PS=I really appreciaTE you all helping me out. Thank you. Have a cold one on me.

[bd1308]

teh spark was real yellow....

but i have spark.

i'll do the other steps....

b

[r_towle]

ok, good, you have spark.

now key on.
open up the aircleaner box...or remove it from the throttle body (its easier that way)

slide your hand in there and feel the flapper valve...

with key on, and radio off....move flapper valve and listen for the fuel pump.

Do you here it? If not you are not getting power to the relays...they feed power to the fuel pump.

tell me those results.

Rich

[bd1308]

i had my fuel pump re-wired to the front trunk and its no longer connected to the original wiring....

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i hear it clicking when i connect that brown wire to the FI ground connections....could i hook a test light to the fuel pump connectors?

[John]

The relay boards are the same d-jet and l-jet.

I don't have my manuals at work so I can't scan the relay board in. There might be a pic of it on this site somewhere.

[bd1308]

there was, I looked at it yesterday.

anyway, with test-light/multimeter, i get nothing when i mess with the AFM.

this is bad isnt it?

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[r_towle]

you will need to have the correct fuel pump installed and the correct wiring I believe...

If not, you will at least need to make sure it runs while the car is running.

On DJET the pump runs and primes the system when you turn the key on.

On LJET the pump only runs when the flapper valve moves, therefore, you need to figure out a way to run the pump now before you start it for the first time to prime the lines...

You probably have no fuel in the lines.

run the pump and listen for the air bubbles in the gas tank, you will hear the pump change tone once you have pressurised the system.

I found that the timing had to be perfect...
I static timed it with new plugs and wires...primed the pump and it started right up...

You need to have the aircleaner hook up correctly, or the flapper valve will not be metering the airflow and the car will stall right away...

You could potentially do that by hand, but it works the way it is supposed to , so hook it all up.

Make sure you have your fule rails all tight and not leaks.
You need your Aux air regulator hooked up and all your vacuum lines hooked up...or she wont start.

Rich

[bd1308]

the pump is already primed. heard the bubbles and everything. so im good.

whats with the AAR needing to be hooked up...I dont have currently the coldstart valve, the thermotime switch hooked up and the AAR is electrically hooked up. the resulting holes in the system are plugged.