Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> Removing 1970 914 Gas Tank
ojai914
post Jan 8 2006, 03:24 PM
Post #1


Newbie
*

Group: Members
Posts: 8
Joined: 8-January 06
From: Ojai, CA, 93023
Member No.: 5,388



Hello. I just purchased a 1970 914-4 and it isn't running right now. I'm going to run a compression test but first I'm draining the gas and oil. I already drained the oil, but now I need to get the gas tank out of the car and disconnect all of the fuel lines. Does anyone have experience with this? Also, I've heard that 914s often suck valves when they go. Is this true? What are some other things I should check for to make it run? Thanks a lot, and by the way, this looks like a great resource as I try to restore my first Porsche.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
McMark
post Jan 8 2006, 03:31 PM
Post #2


914 Freak!
***************

Group: Retired Admin
Posts: 20,179
Joined: 13-March 03
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Member No.: 419
Region Association: None



1. If your paint is nice, think about taking off the front hood.
2. Undo the center strap with a large flat screwdriver.
3. Remove the expansion tank. There is one 6x1 (10mm) bolt near the washer bottle, and one 6x1 (10mm) bolt right where the center strap was. Pull the tank towards the front of the car.
4. If your charcoal canister is connected (drivers side) undo the hoses.
5. Have a friend help you lift the tank out. This is where you might scratch the inside of the front hood. If you leave the hood on have some towels ready to cushion where it might hit, specifically the filler surround.
6. Usually there is enough hose to set the drivers side end of the tank into the front trunk while the passengers side end of the tank sticks up in the air.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
lapuwali
post Jan 8 2006, 03:32 PM
Post #3


Not another one!
****

Group: Benefactors
Posts: 4,526
Joined: 1-March 04
From: San Mateo, CA
Member No.: 1,743



To remove the gas tank, jack up the front of the car and remove the pan that fits between the front suspension pieces. Above that, you'll find a large round hole on the passenger side, and through that you'll find the tank outlet and return. Undo those to drain the tank completely.

Let the front of the car down, open the front trunk, and disconnect the canister on the driver's side, the hoses from the expansion tank (around the filler neck), remove the expansion tank, and disconnect the fuel level sender connector you'll find underneath.

Disconnect the hold down strap.

Standing in the trunk, grasp the tank at each end and pull up. The tank isn't heavy, just big and awkward. It will resist some, as it's wedged in with soft pads.

There's no need to remove the front trunk lid.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Eric_Shea
post Jan 8 2006, 03:36 PM
Post #4


PMB Performance
***************

Group: Admin
Posts: 19,275
Joined: 3-September 03
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Member No.: 1,110
Region Association: Rocky Mountains



Welcome.

To yank the tank you'll need to:

*Take the suspension shield off (if it's still there). Two 13mm and 2 17mm's
*Take off the lines and drain them (fun)
*Remove the evap tank and hoses
*Disconnect the fuel gauge wiring
*Take a big screwdriver and undo the strap.
*Comes up and out.

Pay attention to where the plastic/rubber side mounts are and to where the carpet strips are.

Some suck vale seats but sucking vales only comes from a while of neglect or an improper rebuild. T4's are pretty tough.

Good luck.

E.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Eric_Shea
post Jan 8 2006, 03:37 PM
Post #5


PMB Performance
***************

Group: Admin
Posts: 19,275
Joined: 3-September 03
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Member No.: 1,110
Region Association: Rocky Mountains



(guess I'm a slow typer) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
McMark
post Jan 8 2006, 04:00 PM
Post #6


914 Freak!
***************

Group: Retired Admin
Posts: 20,179
Joined: 13-March 03
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Member No.: 419
Region Association: None



You have to remove the center strap before you can remove the expansion tank on the early cars. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) And I find draining first to be a waste of time. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/tongue.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
r_towle
post Jan 8 2006, 04:28 PM
Post #7


Custom Member
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 24,574
Joined: 9-January 03
From: Taxachusetts
Member No.: 124
Region Association: North East States



and then there is the "Oh shit" method.

I was drilling a hole in the passenger side floorpan/firewall to mount a stereo amp.

Well, I drilled right into the gas tank (ok it was quite a few years ago...first 914 and all)

Anyways, as you may have guessed, I drilled into the tank, and gas started to pour into the passenger side footwell.

Now, it is really amazing , once you decide, how fast you can take out a tank under alot of time pressure.

Well, remove the strap, grab the tank and pull it up really hard, the old rubber lines wont hold up to a really good yank.

And vualla your tank is out.
All of 30-45 seconds.

It was not a good day, got a new tank all boiled out and pretty now.

Rich
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
swl
post Jan 8 2006, 05:24 PM
Post #8


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,409
Joined: 7-August 05
From: Kingston,On,Canada
Member No.: 4,550
Region Association: Canada



all of the above

Based on my pull on a 73 tank the stock hose is not long enough to get it into the trunk. We had to hold up the passenger side keeping the drivers side low so the fuel didn't spill then cut the fuel lines. The clamps were siezed and even once it was out the rubber was so hard that it had to be cut off. So be prepared to replace those hoses. Depending on how long the car has been sitting you may have to either clean out or replace the lines back to the rear. BTW - Eric and James' method of removing the suspension shield avoids all the problems with trying to lift the tank with the hoses in place. If you don't have a helper that is the only way of getting it out without lots of cursing.

If you don't already have one get a Haynes manual. The folks here are great but the manual will give you something you can take out to the garage with you.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
goose2
post Jan 8 2006, 05:54 PM
Post #9


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 976
Joined: 30-March 05
From: Eugene, Oregon
Member No.: 3,847
Region Association: Pacific Northwest



Whether or not you drain the tank MIGHT depend on how much gas is in it (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
70Sixter
post Jan 9 2006, 04:25 PM
Post #10


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 422
Joined: 3-August 04
From: Surf City, NC
Member No.: 2,444
Region Association: South East States



And I'd disconnect the battery to avoid any sparks. Empty tank more explosive than a full one. But empty is lighter. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 11th May 2024 - 09:50 PM