Engine OUT! Rust fix soon!, See pics inside... Options

[snflupigus]

http://www.snflupigus.com/914issues/914issues.htm

Go above....

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[SirAndy]

that's dirty!

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) Andy

[Bleyseng]

You need a case of Berryman's brake cleaner! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ar15.gif)

[MoveQik]

ferchrisakes Nick.....clean it before you post pics.

Now hurry up and get that thing back onthe road before it gets too hot outside to drive it! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/driving.gif)

[mharrison]

I was looking through your posts and the "damn cart" broken dolly picture is not a problem. It's an opportunity. Modify the dolly so that that piece of wood is on a pivot hinge on one end. Put a latch on the other and you can swing it back to move the jack in and out. Then swing it back in and latch it to store the engine.

The only other thing might be to reinforce the fixed piece of wood on the other end to prevent spreading.


I have plans to do this on mine when I get the engine off of it!

[dmenche914]

The rust photos are bad, but seen much worse! Just keep cutting / poking the metal until all rust is dsicovered. be sure to look ont he floor boards, under teh seats, looks like the fire wall was leaking, that measn there might be rust under the tar matts on the floor pan.
At jack points check up in the drain holes, try to cleant them out and peer inside.

can't tell from the photos, but is the top of the longitudual in the well behind passenger seat fire wall, rusted thru? if not then youa re not so bad off.

did your car come with the factory sound padding matt inside the engine bay? If so that is the casue of the rust on both drivers and passenger side fire walls.

Battery trays and engien shelvesa re easyt o get and weld up. The fire wall might be best cut out and hand fabricate some new metal to wels in.

be sure to use plenty of rust converting / worker proofing under and in panels and such once it is together. So often good metla work rust repairs are made only to re-rust again faster thant eh original cause water proofing, seam sealing and such is not done, (soemtime the (factory fails to do it right) Now days with new chemicals we can do better than the factory did on re-rust proofing.

good luck.

[snflupigus]

floors are solid.

i will be preping a bit further before i give it to my body guy... i will also be helping him from time to time.

I will be removing all engine shelves and prepping the engine bay to look new again. it will be painted white. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)

I've decided to go subaru for the engine. essentially all internal parts have no been removed. no seats etc... nothing left up in the front trunk. I'll probably remove the dash etc.. to prep that for some changes too.

I'll be poking around the engine bay tonight probably to see where the rust stops.

My only real fear would be needing to remove the rear fiberglass fenders. That would SUCK.

[TROJANMAN]

why don't you remove that body kit while you're at it (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

j/k - that's actually a really clean looking car.

[MoveQik]

QUOTE (TROJANMAN @ Jan 10 2006, 01:27 PM)

why don't you remove that body kit while you're at it (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

You're just pissed that someone actually has bigger bumpers than you! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/poke.gif)