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> aluminum intermediate plate......
degreeoff
post Jan 17 2006, 09:12 PM
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well I bought one on evilbay to aid in my high hp 6 conversion....it has a hole tapped in the side...it is a weltmeister...is that for the 6 bellcrank....please please please tell me it is...but the truth...lol

thanks

Josh
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North Bay 914
post Jan 17 2006, 09:14 PM
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Yes, and good luck gathering up all the correct parts for it. I just bought one of the last original bellcranks at the gearbox from PORSCHE, $160.00 for one. Not the same as 911.
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degreeoff
post Jan 17 2006, 09:19 PM
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cool beans...I already have the bellcrank AND the rod so I am good...just no bracket and then WAM!! $356 for a new interplate on evilbay...schweet!!.

Just need a nice LSD and I am good to go.

Thanks
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North Bay 914
post Jan 17 2006, 09:24 PM
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Bolt for reverse lever, 914.301.307.00

Reverse lever, 914.423.025.01

BUshings, 2 ea required, 914.423.211.00

Throttle linkage, (same as 911) 901.423.026.03

Cotter pin.

2 each washers.
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North Bay 914
post Jan 17 2006, 09:25 PM
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You need the bolt. It is still available from PORSCHE as well I believe.
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North Bay 914
post Jan 17 2006, 09:27 PM
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I am trying to find out a rumor I heard a couple of days ago, that the 901 LSD needs a specific type of outdrive, so I checked out the part number using the book, and it does show a different part number for the LSD outdrives. Just more money. No big deal....Right. I think they are slightly longer.
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brp914
post Jan 17 2006, 09:33 PM
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dont know if its true but another member here came up nla on intermediate plate bearings. If so, it wouldn't be the first time. about 10 yrs ago I had the same problem and when they came back I got an extra set. I'm not anxious to sell, btw. I'm tempted to think that cv's will come back. Who or how can we pressure mfr's to crank out more? can we organize a group buy? just wondering.
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sixnotfour
post Jan 17 2006, 09:37 PM
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You may want to compare pricing, I think by time you rebuild the ZF if its the old style with male splines and buy the out flanges you could buy a new 914 Gaurd LSD that uses easy to get 914 out stubs.
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rick 918-S
post Jan 17 2006, 09:45 PM
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QUOTE (North Bay 914 @ Jan 17 2006, 07:27 PM)
I am trying to find out a rumor I heard a couple of days ago, that the 901 LSD needs a specific type of outdrive, so I checked out the part number using the book, and it does show a different part number for the LSD outdrives. Just more money. No big deal....Right. I think they are slightly longer.

I think I read that too. Expand on your post. What LSD do you have? I think I'll start a post....
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Aaron Cox
post Jan 17 2006, 10:13 PM
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i got the pivot bolt if ya need it....

i have a few 911 pivots also... seen them unwelded and rewelded up like a 6
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brant
post Jan 17 2006, 11:18 PM
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Aaron, how much you want for a 911 pivot (bellcrank)
I need an extra for a different long term project.

Isn't installation, bearings, and shimming the differential going to cost an absolute fortune. (I'm guessing 2k with diff)

Wouldn't it be cheaper to bolt on a different type of bellcrank and avoid all of the diff labor? (assuming you can be satisfied with an open diff for anything but full race)

brant
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kdfoust
post Jan 18 2006, 12:05 AM
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My p-car mechanic quoted "right at $1000" to properly install an LSD in my 944S2. I understood that to mean: remove tranny, open, inspect, replace stuff as needed (I doubt if there's anything to replace on this particular tranny), install LSD, shimming and check clearance on R&P, put everything back in car. I seem to remember two to three days in his shop as the time window needed.

I guess I'm going to find out directly for sure because I've got a ZF to install now and it going into that car in FEB.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beer.gif) Heh, it's only money...

Later,
Kevin
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r_towle
post Jan 18 2006, 08:55 AM
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I am not sure if there is a stock price for this work.

BUT, I would assume the better part of a day to do the job correctly.

You have to install the shims and measure, then open it all back up again...install more shims etc...It is very time consuming, and the person must have the correct porsche tool to measure the R&P movement (I am sure someone else makes a tool, still gotta have a tool)

If shop rate for a good mechanic that knows how to do this is 100/hr, its close to 1k...and that is if you have all the parts right there, gaskets and all.

There is a guy here on the East Coast (I wanna say Gary Fairbanks, but I may be wrong with that name)
Anyways, you ship it to him, he does the work, and ships it back pretty quick..you get it back in a day or two, all set up. The local porsche shop even uses him, cause its his specialty, and his price seems to be what you would pay anywhere, but he does porsche trannies more than anyone else..

Rich
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bondo
post Jan 18 2006, 09:53 AM
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QUOTE (r_towle @ Jan 18 2006, 07:55 AM)
I am not sure if there is a stock price for this work.

BUT, I would assume the better part of a day to do the job correctly.

You have to install the shims and measure, then open it all back up again...install more shims etc...It is very time consuming, and the person must have the correct porsche tool to measure the R&P movement (I am sure someone else makes a tool, still gotta have a tool)

If shop rate for a good mechanic that knows how to do this is 100/hr, its close to 1k...and that is if you have all the parts right there, gaskets and all.

There is a guy here on the East Coast (I wanna say Gary Fairbanks, but I may be wrong with that name)
Anyways, you ship it to him, he does the work, and ships it back pretty quick..you get it back in a day or two, all set up. The local porsche shop even uses him, cause its his specialty, and his price seems to be what you would pay anywhere, but he does porsche trannies more than anyone else..

Rich

It's not QUITE that complicated, the number etched on the pinion and the info in the factory manual gives you the shim thickness, and ideally that gets it into the range where you use the tool to find the correct thickness of gaskets to use to fine tune. In a perfect world you'll only have to assemble the gear stack once. You probably will have to re-shim the diff carrier a few times though.
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Dr Evil
post Jan 18 2006, 10:07 AM
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Here are some bell crank shots to help you out.


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Dr Evil
post Jan 18 2006, 10:09 AM
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The parts are cheap and available from some of the vendors in the resources section, too. I just used a regular stud with a drilled hole.
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db9146
post Jan 18 2006, 10:56 AM
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Anybody know of another source for an intermediate plate? Ole Josh here was willing to pay a little more than me on this one.

Thanks
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degreeoff
post Jan 18 2006, 08:58 PM
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That was too much??....The cheapest I have seen new ( which this was/is ) is at performance products and its high $400's there.

Thanks for the pict's evil, I have seen so many rigs its tough to know.

Josh
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xitspd
post Jan 18 2006, 09:59 PM
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Heres a shot of my Performance Products unit after I had it anodized..... If I could do it again, I would have used some kind of coating on the end cap.... Corroded magnesium is butt ugly (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/bootyshake.gif)


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r_towle
post Jan 18 2006, 10:52 PM
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thats just mean showing a motor that clean...
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