decreasing 914 weight Options

[Mueller]

QUOTE (ModPR3 @ Feb 28 2006, 02:39 PM)

guesstimate time: starting point: 1975 914 1.8 all stock weight reductions: complete fiberglass 916 kit (flares, front and rear bumpers) fiberglass hood and trunk heating system and controls taken out stock exhust replaced with headers spare tire taken out and replaced with tire flat seal and disposable air canister what do you think i will weigh in at:

• flares, not much a reduction, possibly a pound per corner??
  
• bumpers, 55 per end?
  
• front hood, 15 pound savings
  
• rear lid, 15 pound savings
  
• heating delete, 35 pounds?
  
• header instead of heatexhangers, 35 pounds?
  

[Andyrew]

QUOTE (ModPR3 @ Feb 28 2006, 02:31 PM)

QUOTE (Andyrew @ Feb 28 2006, 01:28 PM) Riviera's. pretty heavy, there mag wheels.. They can be used for autox, Its the vw offset wheels you shouldnt use (actually, the one's pictured are vw offset) because it limits your tire size to 165 on stock fenders.. The 914 offset rivs are perfectly fine, never seen em break... You can find em for low prices.. People give em away.. lol Andrew how much more do the rivieras weigh then the cookie cutters.

Two different ball games..
Riviera's... 4 lug. (which Im assuming your going with 4 lug)

Cookie cutters... 5 lug..
5 lug will add weight, and stopping power, and wheel options.


You want light 4 lugs? Centerlines, Mahles, fuchs, whatever grants running, and Revolutions.. Im sure I spelled everything in there wrong.

Andrew

[lapuwali]

Probably 2050lbs or thereabouts, tank empty.

If you're serious about a lightweight car, you'd sell the '75 and buy a '70-'71, and you'd be starting with a car that's already under 2000lbs to start with. By the time you made your proposed mods, you'd be between 1800-1900lbs. If you did everything mentioned here, you can get down to 1750lbs or so. If you're looking to do an engine swap, too, you could find an inexpensive roller and save yourself the trouble of getting rid of an engine you won't need.

[ModPR3]

QUOTE (lapuwali @ Feb 28 2006, 02:18 PM)

Probably 2050lbs or thereabouts, tank empty. If you're serious about a lightweight car, you'd sell the '75 and buy a '70-'71, and you'd be starting with a car that's already under 2000lbs to start with. By the time you made your proposed mods, you'd be between 1800-1900lbs. If you did everything mentioned here, you can get down to 1750lbs or so. If you're looking to do an engine swap, too, you could find an inexpensive roller and save yourself the trouble of getting rid of an engine you won't need.

first of thanks for the info guys youre helping me out tons. as far as racing rules, i am building this car as a street car that will have some fun on the track days or on an auto x course and if im auto xing it doesnt matter what my class is to me cause im not looking to have the best time only to be out and having a good time and keeping the racing off the street. all this weight reduction started when i decided to stay with an aircooled engine probably a big four. (wish i could do a proper six but just dont have those funds for my engine budget.) and i saw a replica spyder and researched it. those cars all laying down fast time on 120 hp. i realize they weigh between 1300-1500lbs and i willnever get my 914 that light but hey i can cut some weight where i can. less weight more speed.

[ModPR3]

why are the 70-72 cars so much lighter. i heard about the doors and window crank systems being different. i know they run an tail shift trans, they dont have adjustable passenger seat. no catalytic converter but what else.

[Mueller]

QUOTE (ModPR3 @ Feb 28 2006, 03:37 PM)

why are the 70-72 cars so much lighter. i heard about the doors and window crank systems being different. i know they run an tail shift trans, they dont have adjustable passenger seat. no catalytic converter but what else.

don't you read the posts to your own thread??? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif)

the bumpers and doors make a huge differance........

[ModPR3]

QUOTE (Mueller @ Feb 28 2006, 02:51 PM)

QUOTE (ModPR3 @ Feb 28 2006, 03:37 PM) why are the 70-72 cars so much lighter. i heard about the doors and window crank systems being different. i know they run an tail shift trans, they dont have adjustable passenger seat. no catalytic converter but what else. don't you read the posts to your own thread??? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) the bumpers and doors make a huge differance........

yes i do read them..... i knew the doors thats why i mentioned thim in my quote you posted. two the bumpers were my mistake i did not mention them. what i dont understand is if im using a 916 fiberglass kit why the bumpers would matter on either car.

[rhodyguy]

the rust on your car (as mentioned in your post 3 pages back) is taking care of the weight loss as you type.

k

[ModPR3]

QUOTE (rhodyguy @ Feb 28 2006, 03:07 PM)

the rust on your car (as mentioned in your post 3 pages back) is taking care of the weight loss as you type. k

lol.....so sad....but so true

[Mueller]

QUOTE (ModPR3 @ Feb 28 2006, 04:00 PM)

QUOTE (Mueller @ Feb 28 2006, 02:51 PM) QUOTE (ModPR3 @ Feb 28 2006, 03:37 PM) why are the 70-72 cars so much lighter. i heard about the doors and window crank systems being different. i know they run an tail shift trans, they dont have adjustable passenger seat. no catalytic converter but what else. don't you read the posts to your own thread??? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) the bumpers and doors make a huge differance........ yes i do read them..... i knew the doors thats why i mentioned thim in my quote you posted. two the bumpers were my mistake i did not mention them. what i dont understand is if im using a 916 fiberglass kit why the bumpers would matter on either car.

the later cars have some extra structual material added that the early cars do not have...cutting and removing sheetmetal would have to be done to get the late chassis perfectly in line weight wise as the early chassis....


unless you are racing for money, don't sweat it.....even if it was 50lbs, you wouldn't notice it.....


adding those GT flares is going to add weight since they'll require more rubber to fill them up since it'll look kinda goofy with only 205 wide tires on 5.5" rims ....then depending on the rim, you'll need longer spacers and longer studs

[ModPR3]

thanks the more info i get the more im learning. maybe someday i will actually know something...lol.....but yeah i think if i stay with the four lug setup im going to go with the four lug fuchs or new centerlines. if i put on standard 916 flares that will give me added two inches so i was thinking 8's in back and 7's up front... hows that sound also does anyone know off hand if not ill go measure but are our 4 bolt patters 100mm, 4.25 or 4.50. my guess is 100mm since our cars are metric

[McMark]

I don't understand if you want a light car to be competitive or just because it's "cool/fun/bragging". If you want a light car to be competitive, you would better spend your money making sure the suspension is rebuild (ball joints, tie rods, konis), making sure the engine is running strong and reliably, and making sure the brakes are rebuilt and working 100%. After that spend money on driving school. One of the members here (Britain) was very competitive in his 100% stock 1.7 car with no lightening. Any good driver can make a "heavy" car go fast.

But I get the feeling that this is more of a cool/fun/bragging type situation. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/dry.gif) In which case, do whatever you want.

[McMark]

You won't find wheels in any store. You need 914 or super beetle wheels. They're the only two cars with the 4 x 130mm pattern.

[ModPR3]

definitely cool/fun/bragging.

[ModPR3]

QUOTE (McMark @ Feb 28 2006, 03:22 PM)

You won't find wheels in any store. You need 914 or super beetle wheels. They're the only two cars with the 4 x 130mm pattern.

i learn something new everyday. now to google i go searching for wheels.

[Andyrew]

8's and 7's will fit fine on gt flares. You can fit 9's and (well heck, 10's for that matter on the front) and 8's, or 7's with ease on gt flares.

But good luck trying to find a 4 lug rim in an 8in that you want to run...

And with all that tire, your gona run the stock brake system? What about stock suspension? Engine?

See, I wanted a light car... then I got fed up with my engine... then I wanted a light v8...

Then I got fed up with everything and said screw it!!!

[Mueller]

QUOTE (ModPR3 @ Feb 28 2006, 04:20 PM)

my guess is 100mm since our cars are metric

hahahha...you and just about everyone else that owns a 914 wishes that was true......(you can convert to 4x100, do a search and yes, I've done it with mixed results)

4x130...total odd ball bolt pattern....you will not find new Centerline rims in this config....in fact you might not find any rim wider than 6" with this bolt pattern unless you go with mega-buck 3 piece wheels....

7's up front, no flares needed......

8's on the rear, just mild tweaking of the fender needed (you will need a new paint job however)

[ModPR3]

as with each post i make i find that alot of my ideas are stupid and not going to work....those of you who have stayed with me helping me in my threads thank you. you have much patience... the only wheels i can find in the 4 lug pattern are at a max 5.5 inches, so like said this would look very goofy inside 916 flares. so it looks like my options are stick with the four bolt patern and 5.5 wheels or go 5 lug and if im going to do that i might as well upgrade the front suspension and brakes to a 911 sc setup.

question for light track use and emergency stop situation on the street. will i notice a big difference between the 911 sc front brakes with 914 rears with 5 lug conversion and 7 inch wheels and my stock brakes rebuilt and with 5.5 inch wheels.

[brant]

your going to struggle to find wheels.

the cost effective solution is to have diamond steel wheels made in a 4 bolt x8inch.

they are light for steel wheels.
but they are steel and I seriously think they weigh more than stock.


seriously..
if you want brag factor, then think minimization.
don't add flares, because they will end up weighing more.

your car can be dang fast with 5.5mahle wheels and 205victorace tires.

the actual path to fruition is that you rebuild the car stock.
enjoy it.
-improve your skills
-don't get classified into a fiberglass GT type class.
-don't degrade the performance of your car with big brakes and heavy wheels that your chassis, motor, and brakes do not need and then


then...

then...
when you have accomplished that you will have a clear map about which path or direction you want to go next

thats how track stuff work.
but most people don't figure it out (I didn't) until after they have already made the actual mistakes themselves and are using hind sight to see it.

brant

[grantsfo]

The 1975 you have is fine. The extra weight in your car truely is centered in the bumpers youre replacing and the doors which you could cut the bars from. We have a local guy here in Northern Califonia that has a very lightweight 1975 car. He cut out the door bars and replaced his bumpers with fiberglass as well. Any other differences are not material. You would be amazed at how heavy those 75 bumpers are once you get them off the car and compare them to fiberglass.

For AX and light track use going with stainless steel brake lines, good brake fluid, Porterfield pads on your stock 4 lug hubs and brakes should be fine. Do some searches using porterfield. The stock brakes are actually quite good. If you start doing a lot of track events I hear you may want to upgrade to vented brake rotors - Do a search for billet hubs. However I know Trekkor has the stock 4 brakes on his heavier six and has been able to enjoy the track.

Good luck with your car. Sounds like a great combo between lightweight body panels and the big 4 the car will be impressive.