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> Insanely tight rear hub nut.. HELP!
mrdezyne
post Mar 13 2006, 04:48 PM
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Trying to tear down my rear brakes and suspension to start a rebuild but I have hit a stone wall with the hub nuts on both sides. Are these things torqued with a 3ft cheater bar or something? I have already tried penetrating oil and heat cycles. The threads are not rusty nor are the nuts. Nothing is rounded off..... yet. Is there a secret here or what?
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Mike D.
post Mar 13 2006, 04:52 PM
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OK, It runs now, and pretty good too!
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The nut is torqued to 250 lbs. - So yes a 3 ft. bar would help.

I took a 4 ft. piece of angle iron and drilled two holes on each end, for 4 lug and for 5 lug. Then I bolt this to the hub, and use a breaker bar with and 2 ft. pipe on the end.

Comes right off.

Good Luck,
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Andyrew
post Mar 13 2006, 04:55 PM
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I used a breaker bar, then I used my dads 3ft jack handle, then I topped it all off with a 6ft piece of copper pipe..

Jumping about 4 times with lube seemed to do the trick..

I think its like 330lbs from the factory... Years of rust will increase that number (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)


2ft breaker bar with my foot and weight, jump once to tighten it...

Thats how I do it....

Only done it 5 times (2 hubs were off the car. especially difficult)


Impact wrench will not get it.
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mrdezyne
post Mar 13 2006, 04:59 PM
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QUOTE (Andyrew @ Mar 13 2006, 02:55 PM)
Impact wrench will not get it.

Oh yeah, tried that too.

Ok then, I guess if I go ahead and drop the suspension from the car I can multiply the dificulty by say 50 or more.... great. Oh well, thats easy enough to mount back up... Thanks for the help, cheater bar fab time.....
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Mueller
post Mar 13 2006, 05:01 PM
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QUOTE (mrdezyne @ Mar 13 2006, 03:59 PM)
QUOTE (Andyrew @ Mar 13 2006, 02:55 PM)
Impact wrench will not get it.

Oh yeah, tried that too.

Ok then, I guess if I go ahead and drop the suspension from the car I can multiply the dificulty by say 50 or more.... great. Oh well, thats easy enough to mount back up... Thanks for the help, cheater bar fab time.....

home depot sells a 600+ft lb rated impact gun...wonder if that'll work....
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Andyrew
post Mar 13 2006, 05:05 PM
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Spooling.... Please wait
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We bought a 450lb one..

One way.. ON

no off...
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jsteele22
post Mar 13 2006, 05:11 PM
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The other thing you might look into is renting/borrowing an air-powereed impact wrench. The torque you apply by hand (foot, etc.) builds up and falls off very graduallly. And once (if) the nut starts to turn, there's a good chance of it turning farther/faster than you (or you knuckles) really wanted. An impact wrench OTOH can slam an insanely high amount of torque for only an instant (10's of millisec ?) without the risk of slipping and going too far. The pulses are harder on the sticky crud that's holding the nut on, and easier on the nut, socket, etc.

But 914 owners are stingy, mean-spirited bastards, so don't even think about looking around thuis club for someone with an air impact wrench to borrow (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ar15.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ar15.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ar15.gif)
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lapuwali
post Mar 13 2006, 05:12 PM
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You can "drop the suspension" w/o undoing that nut, just unbolt the CV from the hub. You only need to remove that nut if you plan to remove the hubs, and you only need to do that if you plan to replace the rear wheel bearings.

If you ARE planning on replacing the rear wheel bearings, then you really MUST remove those nuts before you disassemble anything else, or you'll never get them loose.

If by rebuilding the rear suspension, however, you only intend to replace bushings and shocks/springs, then you can leave the hubs in the trailing arms. Note that removing the hubs often destroys the rear bearings, so if those bearings are in good shape, don't remove the hubs.
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Eric_Shea
post Mar 13 2006, 05:13 PM
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I've gotten all mine off with the impact.

I do them off the car too. I have a large piece of aluminum that I bolt to the hub using a couple lug bolts. That stabilizes it. Then I prop the MAPP torch in such a way that it blasts the nut for about 5 minutes.

I've only had one that I had to use acetylene on. We got it cherry red and it finally came off. Proper amounts of serious heat seem to be the ticket.

Cheater bars should do the trick.
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LvSteveH
post Mar 13 2006, 05:15 PM
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Try removing the cotter pin... that always helps (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)
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michel richard
post Mar 13 2006, 05:52 PM
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QUOTE (LvSteveH @ Mar 13 2006, 03:15 PM)
Try removing the cotter pin... that always helps (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

Steve,
you stole my line: I was going to say: make sure the cotter pin is off !
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byndbad914
post Mar 13 2006, 07:05 PM
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QUOTE (Eric_Shea @ Mar 13 2006, 03:13 PM)
I've gotten all mine off with the impact.  

I do them off the car too.  I have a large piece of aluminum that I bolt to the hub using a couple lug bolts.  That stabilizes it.  Then I prop the MAPP torch in such a way that it blasts the nut for about 5 minutes.

I've only had one that I had to use acetylene on.  We got it cherry red and it finally came off.  Proper amounts of serious heat seem to be the ticket.

Cheater bars should do the trick.

I concur. I have always gotten them off with my impact (Sears 1/2", nothing really fancy) and I have stripped a couple real rust piles. Had to heat the hell out of one car, but only that time.

Make sure you have a lot of line pressure too. I have cranked the regulator up if it is really stuck. I think I have gone up to almost 150lbs line pressure (IIRC that was about the max I could get out of my compressor). tools typically call out something like 90 psi line pressure max, but I have gone over it. In fact, a couple of the shops I worked for back in the day would run line pressures in the 120-150psi range all the time. I will follow up with proceed at your own risk to CMA (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/dry.gif) but I have yet to see a gun break due to line pressures in that area. I've seen a socket or two split of course.
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Rotary'14
post Mar 13 2006, 08:24 PM
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Take off the rear wheel to soaked the nut in oil. Remove the center cap on your rim. Re-install the wheel and put the car back on the ground with the wheels blocked. You can still get to the nut and now the car's weight will keep the assembly solid. You can reach for an impact wrench, or, I've used a 1/2 inch craftsman ratchet slipped into a piece of piping about 4 feet long. 2 people can crack that nut loose pretty easily, and if you break the ratchet, it's craftsman! get another for free.



-Rob
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Al Meredith
post Mar 13 2006, 08:46 PM
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Can't you use the VW tool that looks like a bow tie . Put it over the bolt and hit the other end with an ax. Can't remember if the nut size is the sams. Al
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scotty b
post Mar 13 2006, 08:50 PM
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rust free you say ?
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QUOTE (michel richard @ Mar 13 2006, 03:52 PM)
QUOTE (LvSteveH @ Mar 13 2006, 03:15 PM)
Try removing the cotter pin... that always helps   (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

Steve,
you stole my line: I was going to say: make sure the cotter pin is off !

Ever had to get one off with a frozen inplace cotter pin. Yup I have. Not fun, you have to break the pin by turning the already over tightend and rusty nut, and then get the nut past the pin remnants. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif)
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Brian Mifsud
post Mar 13 2006, 09:46 PM
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Hey.. I weigh 240... I'll jump on the breaker bar for you!! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

As always.. hit that nut with some liquid wrench, and or a torch don't get it cherry though.. don't want to take the temper out of it...
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john rogers
post Mar 13 2006, 10:09 PM
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I had that happen on a VW bus years ago and we used a six foot piece of iron pipe and a jack and actually raised the bus off the ground. When the nut broke loose it made a huge bang and the neighbors came out as they thought it was a gun shot.
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Porcharu
post Mar 13 2006, 10:15 PM
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Get yourself some Kryoil - this stuff rocks. I removed my entire exhaust system with a 1/4" ratchet and this stuff. Many of the nuts looked like they would snap the studs off and they just came off without any drama. I got mine at Eastwood at a nice markup and it was still worth the price.
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pek771
post Mar 13 2006, 10:23 PM
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Aero Kroil was the cats ass. PB Blaster is the new cats ass. Squirt the crap out of it, and let it sit for a bit. Then, use the breaker bar/ impact gun. Don't let that little nut kick your ass.
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Brett W
post Mar 13 2006, 10:29 PM
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IR 2135Ti 1/2 impact will do 700Ftlbs in reverse. Will knock that nut loose in no time. Even with the cotter pin in. I have done the lang breaker bar too. It works.

Kroil is the best stuff out their, followed by PB Blaster.
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