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> Second drive (trouble), I have 40 miles to go..
redshift
post Sep 15 2003, 07:47 PM
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Ok, second drive started off fine, oil light no flicker when she's cooled off..

Sounds:

1. Lean

2. Over Advanced

How many clicks off of black smoke is your mixture set @?

It feels now like it wants to be shifted just under the power curve, and it pings in a 200 rpm range starting at 3k.

Maybe I can string together an a/f meter from paperclips, and dustmites?

I hope the oil flicker isn't bad bearings... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

62 miles isn't better than 4800..


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Tom Perso
post Sep 15 2003, 08:41 PM
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Sounds like timing problems. You need to check the timing at 3000+ rpm.

To do this correctly, you need the timing light that has an adjustable advance knob. Run the motor up until it won't advance the timing any more, and then dial the knob in until you get 0 deg showing.

I ran my 2270 between 28 and 30degs of timing (MAX) but with 10 deg's at idle (gotta love the Mallory!). Therefore, she'd start and idle nice and easy, but not ping like hell under load.

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Tom Perso
post Sep 15 2003, 08:41 PM
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I've never run FI, so I can't help your other problem though, so sorry... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Tom
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Bleyseng
post Sep 15 2003, 08:57 PM
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Yes, use a timing light and set the timing to 27 degrees before top dead center at 3500 rpms. Ok, where is that? Go to the PP article and (copy and print) that guide that will set up the marks on the Fan. Mark it will white paint (there should be a mark stamped into the fan).
Take off the hoses on the dizzy and plug them. Hook up the timing light, rev the engine to 3500 and move the dizzy until your mark lines up with the notch. (Its real easy to see, NOT!)

As for the black smoke and being lean that is kind of opposite. The knob on top of the ECU only sets the idle mix at idle. It has nothing to do with the A/F mix. If you are blowing black smoke after setting the timing then you are running rich. Could be the wrong MPS or bad MPS.

Geoff
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redshift
post Sep 15 2003, 09:50 PM
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Misunderstood..

I wanted to get a general consensus on how many clicks BACK from FULL RICH other people's 2.0s are running.

I just had to do anything hot-n-dirty to get it back to the shop for valve adjust, and initial tuning, mission accomplished, and thanks for the help, as usual guys.

It's obvious that the plugs are fouled, and the timing is advanced too far for the last 15-20 miles to happen with a smile.... in the dark... in Savannah... like you COULD smile here..

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/finger.gif) Savannah!


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Bleyseng
post Sep 15 2003, 10:11 PM
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I am running the idle adjustment screw on the ECU at where the factory put the little mark in the ring. I do get alittle hunting during warm up but it smooths out when its warmed up. My mark is about half way.

Geoff
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redshift
post Sep 15 2003, 10:17 PM
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I feel even better then, that is just about where I put it too.. the timing is far advanced, for sure.

I actually feel tired for the first time in nearly 6 weeks, relaxed a little even.

It's amazing how much all this has stressed me out, it's been a test.



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Bleyseng
post Sep 15 2003, 10:22 PM
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The question is why are the plugs fouling?
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redshift
post Sep 15 2003, 10:36 PM
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QUOTE(Bleyseng @ Sep 16 2003, 12:22 AM)
The question is why are the plugs fouling?

was black soot rich when we fired it up.



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Bleyseng
post Sep 15 2003, 10:39 PM
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Does the MPS hold a 15hg vacuum for about 5 minutes? Even if it does, what MPS and ECU are you running? You can't mix and match them.

Geoff
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redshift
post Sep 15 2003, 10:50 PM
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Let me clear up the ends I left hanging:

motor went bad @ 4800 miles
back to builder
completely new motor with the injection from the first
no settings changed
fired right up but sooty
after 3-4 minutes I kept it @ 2000rpm while someone just turned the screw to stop the hyper-richness
It ran ok, so we decided to fix the rest tomorrow..
after 60 miles, it was lumpy, and @ 83 I decided to park it at the shop

It's just not tuned, at all, none.


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Bleyseng
post Sep 15 2003, 11:02 PM
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At 2000 rpms you should not be running in the idle circuit range unless the throttle is closed completely. An AAR valve will keep you at 2000 for a few minutes.
Hmm, sooty black means too rich which leads me to suspect the MPS as that controls the A/F mix with Djet. If that is mis adjusted or you have mis matched parts this is what can happen.
Again, what are the numbers on the ECU and MPS? You may have had the FI put on this new motor by the shop but they could have grabbed a different MPS.

The other thing is a bad CHT. It could be just bad or shorting out on the engine tin.

Geoff
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Eric Taylor
post Sep 15 2003, 11:15 PM
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Geoff what does someone need to test the MPS? Also your saying the MPS of my 2.0 djet would not work on my 1.7?
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Bleyseng
post Sep 15 2003, 11:25 PM
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Sure it will work but rich. The MPS's were calibrated for each run of motors. 037's (last 3 digits) were for the 73 2.0L cars only. Put them on other cars and they run rich. 049's are what go on 1.7's as they are set leaner at partload and WOT.
Usually, someone puts a 1.7L MPS on a 2.0L car and runs it lean. The result can be the dropped seat problem but you will get better gas mileage!
The MPS's are pretty sensitive little things and handle the A/F mix by sensing the engine manifold vacuum and then adjusting the injector duration.
Actually, people drive within a narrow range- partload which is cruising along at 3000 rpms at 35 mph or WOT.
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Bleyseng
post Sep 15 2003, 11:31 PM
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Test with one of these.


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Eric Taylor
post Sep 15 2003, 11:47 PM
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Thanks geoff! If my MPS is bad, where can a get a replacement? Reconditioned, used, new anything that is in good condition and inexpensive (I know that's quite an oximoron)
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Bleyseng
post Sep 15 2003, 11:59 PM
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Pelican sells a 043 for 74-76 2.0L for $725

I have a few good units that have been tested and recalibrated for $200.

Geoff
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Jeff Bonanno
post Sep 16 2003, 12:01 AM
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just got a rebuilt unit from a pp member on ebay. very affordable! gotta check the calib but it holds vacuum - more than i can say about the last two i bought.

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Bleyseng
post Sep 16 2003, 12:05 AM
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That is the key to a good MPS. Does it hold a vacuum? If it does then it will respond to changes in manifold vacuum correctly. Now, if it wasn't such a bitch to remove the machined stop it would be cheap to recalibrate them.

Geoff
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rhodyguy
post Sep 16 2003, 05:33 AM
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
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you're the man geoff. this should be a nailed classic for you f.i guys. "kevin you need to put the f.i. back on your car". geoff would be at my house every other day. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) . no thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) .

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