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> Fiberglass body parts, how far to go with my 6 conversion
billd
post Apr 6 2006, 05:57 PM
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I'm moving the oil cooler on the front of my 914-6 conversion and started a dangerous train of thought that is likely to keep my car on jack stands for months longer and empty my wallet (even emptier than it already is).

Rather than cut a notch in my existing steel bumper and valance I thought, why not buy a fiberglass 916 bumper (or a 914GT bumper and valence). That would save a few pounds.

While I'm at it, I could also get some fiberglass flares, fiberglass front and rear deck lids, and a fiberglass rear bumper.

I hope you folks can help me decide how far to go by answering a few questions:

1. How much weight is saved by replacing the steel bumpers with fiberglass?

2. If I go for flares, do you recommend 7 front/9 rear or 9 front/11 rear?

3. How much more weight can be saved by going to fiberglass deck lids, etc?

4. I assume that I give up all of the protection of the steel bumpers if I go FG. Right?

For reference, I'm buildling a 3.2L short stroke engine for this car with twin-plug heads, 9.5:1 compression, and Megasquirt fuel injection. It should be over 250hp.
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SpecialK
post Apr 6 2006, 06:03 PM
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QUOTE (billd @ Apr 6 2006, 05:57 PM)

While I'm at it....

The first signs of DWD! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif) It maybe too late already!!
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Jeroen
post Apr 6 2006, 06:31 PM
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QUOTE (billd @ Apr 7 2006, 12:57 AM)
2. If I go for flares, do you recommend 7 front/9 rear or 9 front/11 rear?

only go 9/11 if you have really wide wheels (9" front and 11" rear)
7/9 is the regular width for GT flares

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4.  I assume that I give up all of the protection of the steel bumpers if I go FG.  Right?

yup...
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J P Stein
post Apr 6 2006, 06:41 PM
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Frankly, you'd have to be half nuts.......that don't leave out many here.....to spend the money to hang a bunch of glass on anything but a race car. It's not only the money, but the time & effort to get the FG painted to look decent......and as Jeroen pointed out, the first time some knuckle head backs into your bumper all that goes down the tubes. Racer or part time racer, I can see it........tho it can jack you into a class with monsters.
It's kinda fun there, tho. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)
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DanT
post Apr 6 2006, 09:11 PM
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Unless Bill is changing courses the car he is working on is already a track car.
I believe he is building a AX/TT car...So I think that glass is completely appropriate.
Bill, if you are going to concentrate on AX...I would build the best, lightest car and keep it as narrow as possible...7/9s
If you are planning to also go the the track with that nice motor, I would opt for the 9/11s with the absolute biggest tires and wheels you can stuff under those flares.

I personally would also opt for the 914-6 GT front bumper valence set up. More of a classsic look. IMHO I have never cared for the 916 look.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
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Lou W
post Apr 6 2006, 09:19 PM
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So, what kind of weight savings are there to gain with the replacing of the bumpers and deck lids?
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Borderline
post Apr 6 2006, 09:34 PM
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On my '72, the front and rear bumpers with the rubber tops weigh in at about 17.5 lbs each. IIRC, the fg units weigh in at about 5 lbs, That's about 12.5 lbs off each end. The front and rear deck lids weigh about 30.5 lbs each. The fg units should be about 10 lbs each. That's another 20 lbs off each end. Total weight savings about 65 lbs. I'm going to try and do my own deck lids. Should be fun getting them to be as lite as possible (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

Bill
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brant
post Apr 6 2006, 09:37 PM
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QUOTE (billd @ Apr 6 2006, 04:57 PM)
1.  How much weight is saved by replacing the steel bumpers with fiberglass?

3.  How much more weight can be saved by going to fiberglass deck lids, etc?


I think you would find the weight savings somewhat disappointing..
and I don't know what your own personal $/lb ratio is... but this train of thought will cost significant dollars for limited lbs...

I'm going to venture a guess
-front bumper savings 11lbs
-rear bumper another 11lbs
-front hood 35lbs
rear hood another 30lbs

so I'm guessing a weight savings of approximately 87lbs.
but then you will offset that with heavier running gear...

now look at what that 87lbs is costing.
front bumper 175
rear bumper 175
front hood 400
rear hood 400

so about $1150
remember fiberglass is a pain to fit and finish..
so if you want to include paint work you should add about 2500 to that figure.

you have to figure out your own acceptable dollar/lb ratio.
without the cost of running gear and without factoring its extra weight..
your at around $41.95/lb.

thats a pretty high ratio
may or may not be within your own personal comfort zone.
it would have to be a race car and not a street car for me to swallow that.

I'm all for light weight... but it doesn't make sense for a street car.
on the other hand if you really are building a race car then ditch the stereo, heat, side windows, upholstery, head lights and go for it!

brant
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grantsfo
post Apr 6 2006, 11:06 PM
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QUOTE (brant @ Apr 6 2006, 07:37 PM)
QUOTE (billd @ Apr 6 2006, 04:57 PM)
1.  How much weight is saved by replacing the steel bumpers with fiberglass?

3.  How much more weight can be saved by going to fiberglass deck lids, etc?


I think you would find the weight savings somewhat disappointing..
and I don't know what your own personal $/lb ratio is... but this train of thought will cost significant dollars for limited lbs...

I'm going to venture a guess
-front bumper savings 11lbs
-rear bumper another 11lbs
-front hood 35lbs
rear hood another 30lbs

so I'm guessing a weight savings of approximately 87lbs.
but then you will offset that with heavier running gear...

now look at what that 87lbs is costing.
front bumper 175
rear bumper 175
front hood 400
rear hood 400

so about $1150
remember fiberglass is a pain to fit and finish..
so if you want to include paint work you should add about 2500 to that figure.

you have to figure out your own acceptable dollar/lb ratio.
without the cost of running gear and without factoring its extra weight..
your at around $41.95/lb.

thats a pretty high ratio
may or may not be within your own personal comfort zone.
it would have to be a race car and not a street car for me to swallow that.

I'm all for light weight... but it doesn't make sense for a street car.
on the other hand if you really are building a race car then ditch the stereo, heat, side windows, upholstery, head lights and go for it!

brant

Every little bit helps and it can be done for half the price quoted.
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billd
post Apr 6 2006, 11:17 PM
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QUOTE (Dan (Almaden Valley) @ Apr 6 2006, 07:11 PM)
Bill, if you are going to concentrate on AX...I would build the best, lightest car and keep it as narrow as possible...7/9s
If you are planning to also go the the track with that nice motor, I would opt for the 9/11s with the absolute biggest tires and wheels you can stuff under those flares.

For now I'm focusing on AX. The goal is to beat the blue smurfmobile. However at some point I may start time trialing again - with this car. I only want to do the flares once. I'm leaning toward 7s/9s. Do you think wider tires are that much of an advantage on the track?

I may settle for a "primer" paint job for the short term to keep costs down.
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DanT
post Apr 6 2006, 11:37 PM
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Sounds good Bill.

Since your car is white anyway...try to find FG parts in white gelcoat...it will match pretty well that way...
On my 914-6 I had a GT racing RSR front airdam in White gelcoat and the car was white...match was almost dead on...never did paint it.
If the bumpers are in black gelcoat and the flares, and hoods are in White it would look pretty nice. Do a rivet job on the flares like Randal has...looks pretty nice with black fender welting. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

With AX as your main emphasis I would stay with the 7/9s plus they look more original than the 9/11s.
You can still get some pretty serious rubber under the flares if you get the right back spacing....use some Boxster wheels with spacers. I am sure you have some of those laying around (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

You are going to have to get pretty light to get close to Andrew B.

Even with the HP advantage. sounds like a fun project. Looks like you had a better day at the Zone AX...much better in the standings with the 4 banger.
Did you get bigger front torsions, or was it bigger rear springs?
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J P Stein
post Apr 7 2006, 06:02 AM
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The biggest weight loss on mine was doors.....and cheep.
The stock 74 doors were 64 lbs ea. the early gutted replacements are 20 lbs ea.....via a bathroom scale.
I'm still eyeballin' my windshield.......the end is near.(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

If you are going after that blue rollerskate, you're going to have to be ruthless in the pursuit of lightness......and grip.
It's a noble cause tho (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
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grantsfo
post Apr 7 2006, 08:27 AM
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QUOTE (billd @ Apr 6 2006, 09:17 PM)
QUOTE (Dan (Almaden Valley) @ Apr 6 2006, 07:11 PM)
Bill, if you are going to concentrate on AX...I would build the best, lightest car and keep it as narrow as possible...7/9s
If you are planning to also go the the track with that nice motor, I would opt for the 9/11s with the absolute biggest tires and wheels you can stuff under those flares.

For now I'm focusing on AX. The goal is to beat the blue smurfmobile. However at some point I may start time trialing again - with this car. I only want to do the flares once. I'm leaning toward 7s/9s. Do you think wider tires are that much of an advantage on the track?

I may settle for a "primer" paint job for the short term to keep costs down.

Which blue smurfmobile? Mine or the real fast one that Andrew B drives? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)



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race914
post Apr 7 2006, 08:32 AM
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What's wrong with Smurfmobiles?


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race914
post Apr 7 2006, 08:34 AM
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To keep costs down, all of my fiberglass bumpers and hoods have been swap meet 'buys'. Took a little refinishing time to primer & spot putty, but the results are fine.

Pic above is right after I 'found' a used hood and couldn't wait to paint it before I put it on...
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J P Stein
post Apr 7 2006, 05:16 PM
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QUOTE (grantsfo @ Apr 7 2006, 06:27 AM)


Which blue smurfmobile? Mine or the real fast one that Andrew B drives? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

Heh....you ain't a target yet...or even a shooter (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
When's your first AX in the new car?
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brant
post Apr 7 2006, 06:48 PM
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I've got to start proof reading better...
I should have put 67lbs total.. (because of adding back the glass f/r lids)

I absolutely agree that every bit helps
and I perfectly understand that 67 lbs is A LOT
I also understand that you don't have to repaint the car and that paint cost doesn't have to factor into the equation.

still I think my point remainst the same that for over a grand you are going to shed what seems like not a whole lot of weight.

you can easily find 67lbs in the car elsewhere for free (just unbolt stuff) I agree with JP that the doors and door glass are the motherload of cheap weight. Next pull all of the heating and ventilation and headlights.....

1000 bucks is beaucoup money.
and would buy a fresh set of sticky hoosiers that will make up more time than 67lbs will.

brant
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grantsfo
post Apr 7 2006, 08:45 PM
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QUOTE (brant @ Apr 7 2006, 04:48 PM)
I've got to start proof reading better...
I should have put 67lbs total.. (because of adding back the glass f/r lids)

I absolutely agree that every bit helps
and I perfectly understand that 67 lbs is A LOT
I also understand that you don't have to repaint the car and that paint cost doesn't have to factor into the equation.

still I think my point remainst the same that for over a grand you are going to shed what seems like not a whole lot of weight.

you can easily find 67lbs in the car elsewhere for free (just unbolt stuff) I agree with JP that the doors and door glass are the motherload of cheap weight. Next pull all of the heating and ventilation and headlights.....

1000 bucks is beaucoup money.
and would buy a fresh set of sticky hoosiers that will make up more time than 67lbs will.

brant

But if this is going to be an an AX car there is plenty of cheap new and used fiberglass. Might as well get as much weigh savings as possible. Weight is biggest enemy of an AX car. Why not get rid of as much as you can?It must be the old competitive cyclist in me.

I ran super ugly last year with $2.99 rattle can painted flat black hoods and bumpers. But the car did move faster.


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J P Stein
post Apr 7 2006, 09:11 PM
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Well, if you wanna get serious, I took well over 200 lbs off my car last year. Tain't street legal no more, but if you're serious.....well, Andrew & Steve are. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)
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grantsfo
post Apr 7 2006, 09:43 PM
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QUOTE (J P Stein @ Apr 7 2006, 07:11 PM)
Well, if you wanna get serious, I took well over 200 lbs off my car last year. Tain't street legal no more, but if you're serious.....well, Andrew & Steve are. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

Naw ...if youre serious get your butt in a go kart. That will make you a hell of a lot faster than losing 200 lbs.
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