naked 1.8, What should I purchase to reinstall engine tin? |
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naked 1.8, What should I purchase to reinstall engine tin? |
davesprinkle |
Apr 22 2006, 11:43 AM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 720 Joined: 13-October 04 From: Berkeley, CA Member No.: 2,943 Region Association: None |
Howdy everyone.
First, a little background -- about 10 years ago, I yanked the running fuel-injected 1.8liter engine out of my 914 to address a leaking tranny seal that had oiled the clutch. I'm just now getting around to reassembly. Last week, I removed all the engine tin from the engine and hosed 89000 miles of accumulated oily grime off of the cylinders and oil cooler. The engine tin and fan housing are at the powdercoater right now. I hope to be able to dress the engine next week. OK, getting to the point, what will I need to purchase to reassemble this thing? Here is my list -- please tell me what I'm missing: 1. injectors 2. injector tip seals 3. injector base seals 4. engine hose kit 5. intake runner seals 6. throttle body gasket 7. cold-start injector gasket 8. clutch friction plate 9. tranny input shaft seal 10. shift bushing kit (DWD) 11. CV gaskets 12. valve cover gaskets 13. What else? (This is where you chime in.) Specifically, where do I get the foam gaskets that I found in seemingly random locations on the engine tin? What about the various engine-tin grommets, hardened after 30 years of heat-cycles and hydrocarbon exposure? And are replacement engine tin fasteners available? What are your thoughts about other seals? (For example, should I replace the oil cooler seals? They don't seem to be leaking, but I've got easy access right now...) I'd like to place an order with some lucky vendor on Monday. Please help me spend my money! Thanks for your input. -dave sprinkle |
bd1308 |
Apr 22 2006, 11:47 AM
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#2
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Sir Post-a-lot Group: Members Posts: 8,020 Joined: 24-January 05 From: Louisville,KY Member No.: 3,501 |
fridge with beverage of choice?
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davesprinkle |
Apr 22 2006, 11:49 AM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 720 Joined: 13-October 04 From: Berkeley, CA Member No.: 2,943 Region Association: None |
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jim_hoyland |
Apr 22 2006, 12:47 PM
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#4
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,301 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
Dave,
I'm doing the same thing. Your list is pretty similar to mine. You may have to make a cold start seal I don't think your gonna find them. I was thinking of removing mine permanently. Going to the D & G ? |
srb7f |
Apr 22 2006, 12:57 PM
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#5
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Member Group: Members Posts: 157 Joined: 17-May 04 From: Roswell, GA Member No.: 2,077 Region Association: None |
For around $50, you can buy an entire gasket set which will have your oil cooler seals, pushrod tube seals (both ends), aluminum and copper washers for sealing bolts, valve cover gaskets, exhaust gaskets, etc. etc. I would recommend replacing everything that is easiliy accessible at this point in time for you... Much easier to prevent an oil leak now than to have one start leaking after you get everything back together, especially after you spent all the $ for powdercoating.
This is what I did a couple years ago, and it worked out nicely. The only things that it won't include that you will need are the CV gaskets, rear main crankshaft seal, and front main seal (which are easy to replace once you're this far and well worth it for their cost to frustration saved down the road ratio in my opinion). I just removed a complete working L-jet off my 74 1.8 that I will be selling, so let me know if you are interested. (I just put a stock 2.0 with the D-jet in my car). Steve |
Pat Garvey |
Apr 22 2006, 04:19 PM
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#6
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Do I or don't I...........? Group: Members Posts: 5,899 Joined: 24-March 06 From: SE PA, near Philly Member No.: 5,765 Region Association: North East States |
Cheesehead screws that hold the tin on should be readily available & the new ons will have the proper cad plating on them. Try Soddard for those (where I got mine). The foam is a little different. trying to stay original, I got a few pieces that were factory, & quite frankly, inferior. Since these are hidden from view by being compressed between pieces of tin I went to a hardware store & bought a couple of rolls of 3/8" dense black foam w/adhesive on one side. Worked fine & is completely hidden. I wouldn't recommend just skipping these pieces because the purpose is sealing AND the pieces of tin touching each other will move as you drive/heat them up. The movement will quickly remove your powdercoating & they'll begin to rust.
Good luck - get it back on the road! |
jim_hoyland |
Apr 22 2006, 05:46 PM
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#7
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,301 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
Can we get some details about the foam; brand ? etc. I don't remenber seeing any in the hardware store. Which section ? What its intended use ?
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shelby/914 |
Apr 22 2006, 06:20 PM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 804 Joined: 24-August 05 From: Foxfield, Co Member No.: 4,655 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I'm at the same spot. Picked up powdercoated tin yesterday. Going to hit all the local flaps tomorrow to look for the foam, so pleeeze save us some time and let us know where and what brand worked for you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
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jim_hoyland |
Apr 22 2006, 08:14 PM
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#9
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,301 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
In an unrelated project, I bought 18* x 42 sheet of black foam rubber in 1/4" and 1/2" at OSH Hardware. The thin stuff is reall easy to cut. I had used a 1/2" thick piece under the front of the engine hood in front of the grill/rain tray and under my spare tire.
I noticed that some of the tin I got has a sealent that looks like it came out of caulking gun. That may be an earier way--there are probably products for this purpose out there... |
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