i think i'm "effed", i'm no sucker, but i might cry. Options

[JPB]

Bud that problem ain't schmit! What you would want to do, and its easy as pie, is just extend the existing bolt with a match thread bolt piece. The trick is to bevel the piece you will weld to the existing bolt into a point. Use a flux core mig wire like 035 and then just tack it in place. Line it up to where it seems to go and verify with the cover for alignment. Weld a little bit more and check again. Once tacked in three directions, just weld up the bevel until flush with the shank and avoid having to grind or Dremel any weld since this would be a real biotch. Easy job bro. Make sure the weld is not where the threads should be for the nut so it dosen't shank out before the cover is on tight.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) When all else fails, weld it!

[lotus_65]

Lemme get this straight. You gave the "machinist" a long block and he "rebuilt" it? He didn't even get the old gasket off the sump mating surface! Or did you give him a box of parts and tell him to rebuild it? Or maybe he did the machine work (which usually includes cleaning the parts!) and you assembled it. Whatever happened, the broken stud is part of the oil pickup assembly, which is bloted to the windage tray, and it's NOT part of the case. It can't be removed without disassembling the engine. I would be happy to provide you with an unbroken oil pickup assembly. I would certainly suspect the quality of the work you were charged for, and would certainly question the skliis and knowledge of the "machinist" involved. Furthermore, there are plenty of us here on the list who could have done the work for you, or at least guided you through the process. The Cap'n

thanks to all of you on this.
the machinist is coming to my place tomorrow to assess.
cap'n:
i gave him the shortblock, and heads and the new jugs/pistons etc. he was my assembler. i did pull the screen and the p.o.'s rig job.
i didn't point out the issue.

i personally want it fixed right, even if i have to pay for it.

unfortunately, i only had a second to type this, and i wanted to acnowledge the great advice.

i'll add more in about an hour.

thanks again! you guys are really helpful.

[Cap'n Krusty]

If you gave him an assembled short block and didn't tell you about the problem, then it's entirely on YOU. I probably would have noticed the problem, and notified you before I even turned a wrench ................... I feel your pain! BTW, just what DID he do for your money? The Cap'n

[lotus_65]

If you gave him an assembled short block and didn't tell you about the problem, then it's entirely on YOU. I probably would have noticed the problem, and notified you before I even turned a wrench ................... I feel your pain! BTW, just what DID he do for your money? The Cap'n

no, he got the partially dis-assembled engine and the new parts. he machined and assembled it. (i'm sure he did a great job, he has great skills and ref's)
the only thing he didn't do was the align bore, it went to another shop for that (i've got a stone in my hand, but i'm not throwing it).
i think i own part of the blame, there's no doubt. i should have pointed it out, and i didn't give him the plate because it wasn't clean, then it was put up waiting for the lump to come home.

if i have to pull it again, then i have to.

[Gint]

I don't for the life of me understand why you can't drill that out.

[Cap'n Krusty]

I don't for the life of me understand why you can't drill that out.

Look at the picture, Gint. There's nothing to drill out. It's a long stud ending in a banjo fitting. The banjo ring goes around the case through bolt, which goes through one of the cam bearing saddles. Mishandling the job can break the cam. The Cap'n

[Cap'n Krusty]

If you gave him an assembled short block and didn't tell you about the problem, then it's entirely on YOU. I probably would have noticed the problem, and notified you before I even turned a wrench ................... I feel your pain! BTW, just what DID he do for your money? The Cap'n

no, he got the partially dis-assembled engine and the new parts. he machined and assembled it. (i'm sure he did a great job, he has great skills and ref's)
the only thing he didn't do was the align bore, it went to another shop for that (i've got a stone in my hand, but i'm not throwing it).
i think i own part of the blame, there's no doubt. i should have pointed it out, and i didn't give him the plate because it wasn't clean, then it was put up waiting for the lump to come home.

if i have to pull it again, then i have to.

OK, he broke down the case, did his thing, he still had to have the oil pickup to put it together. I have yet to see a T4 case that needed an align bore, but they must exist. He put in a part that he didn't inspect and verify it's functionality. Bad move on his part. He's either inexperienced in T4 motors, or he's damn sloppy.
All conjecture and creativity aside, the motor's gotta come back apart, meaning more cleaning and assorted BS. The Cap'n

[SirAndy]

It's a long stud ending in a banjo fitting. The banjo ring goes around the case through bolt, which goes through one of the cam bearing saddles. Mishandling the job can break the cam.

ok Cap'n, let me do what i do best and ask a stupid question ...

braking off that bolt means someone overtightened that nut, putting a lot of load on that through-bolt in the process ...

couldn't that already have messed up the cam-bearing/cam ???

no? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Andy

[Bartlett 914]

I would suggest that before you do any maching (drillling) on the end of the screw you make a drill guide. This would be a rod that on one end has an ID the diameter of the OD of the bolt. It should fit snug. The other end is has precision drilled hole to guide any drill that you are planning to use. 2 of these may be needed. One for the center drill and another for the tap drill. Maybe a third to guide the tap. A repair stud with a threaded hole in the end could be coupled to the broken stud with a set screw acting as a stud. This process will keep the 2 (screw and repair piece) in proper alignment. The biggest probelm is the condition of the end of the broken stud. It should be very flat. If possible, I would want to silver solder the 2 together. Maybe with proper shielding this could be done to protect the case. Just my .02

Whatever you decide I wish you luck.

Mark

[iamchappy]

Thats such a low torque bolt that holds that cover on, I think you could tap or collar the thing and make it work for the summer, then send it back for the real fix during hibernation this winter. I am sure I could cob something together for you that will work till then.

[lotus_65]

It's a long stud ending in a banjo fitting. The banjo ring goes around the case through bolt, which goes through one of the cam bearing saddles. Mishandling the job can break the cam.

ok Cap'n, let me do what i do best and ask a stupid question ...

braking off that bolt means someone overtightened that nut, putting a lot of load on that through-bolt in the process ...

couldn't that already have messed up the cam-bearing/cam ???

no? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Andy

it was broken before the rebuild, not fixed. i think the rebuild corrected any relative issues with the broken part.

i'll need a new pickup, but i don't see one at pelican.
can someone lead me to the part?

thanks
paul

[newto914s]

It's a long stud ending in a banjo fitting. The banjo ring goes around the case through bolt, which goes through one of the cam bearing saddles. Mishandling the job can break the cam.

ok Cap'n, let me do what i do best and ask a stupid question ...

braking off that bolt means someone overtightened that nut, putting a lot of load on that through-bolt in the process ...

couldn't that already have messed up the cam-bearing/cam ???

no? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Andy

I was always under the impression that that was the bolt that if torqued more than 9fps you could crack the case. Not a place I'd like to drill or fuss with too much. Good luck Lotus

[lotus_65]

Thats such a low torque bolt that holds that cover on, I think you could tap or collar the thing and make it work for the summer, then send it back for the real fix during hibernation this winter. I am sure I could cob something together for you that will work till then.

of course your right, chappy. i'll work matt over for winter repairs after a summer of tooling around the lakes.

[Dave-O]

Paul,
I'm really sorry to hear this. I think the assembler should pull it apart and replace on his own time. This should have been noticed during the re-assembly at the latest as you included all the parts for the oil screen and cover. Fix it right once and be done with it... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[Dave_Darling]

Mr. PET has this to say about the pickup:
42 021 101 149 A OIL TUBEWITHCOVER PLATE W0 057 461 >>M EC0 000 001>> >>EA0 098 793 >>EB0 010 020 >>GA0 016 000 GC0 000 001>> 1 914-1,7/1,8V914-1,8/2,0

I think that means that it was used on all but the earliest of 1.7s--and my foggy memory is telling me Raby once mentioned early 1.7s having a different size tube on the pickup, requiring a different O-ring on the end that plugs into the case (not the end we saw in the original picture, the other end) and a different hole in the case to fit it.

Pelican says: $50 or so.

--DD

[Cap'n Krusty]

It's a long stud ending in a banjo fitting. The banjo ring goes around the case through bolt, which goes through one of the cam bearing saddles. Mishandling the job can break the cam.

ok Cap'n, let me do what i do best and ask a stupid question ...

braking off that bolt means someone overtightened that nut, putting a lot of load on that through-bolt in the process ...

couldn't that already have messed up the cam-bearing/cam ???

no? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Andy

it was broken before the rebuild, not fixed. i think the rebuild corrected any relative issues with the broken part.

i'll need a new pickup, but i don't see one at pelican.
can someone lead me to the part?

I already offered to send you one. Free. The Cap'n

thanks
paul

[lotus_65]

oops, i missed that through my tears cap'n! i'll take it.

thank you, dave.

[Cap'n Krusty]

I would suggest that before you do any maching (drillling) on the end of the screw you make a drill guide. This would be a rod that on one end has an ID the diameter of the OD of the bolt. It should fit snug. The other end is has precision drilled hole to guide any drill that you are planning to use. 2 of these may be needed. One for the center drill and another for the tap drill. Maybe a third to guide the tap. A repair stud with a threaded hole in the end could be coupled to the broken stud with a set screw acting as a stud. This process will keep the 2 (screw and repair piece) in proper alignment. The biggest probelm is the condition of the end of the broken stud. It should be very flat. If possible, I would want to silver solder the 2 together. Maybe with proper shielding this could be done to protect the case. Just my .02

Whatever you decide I wish you luck.

Mark

You don't understand! Look at the picture. You drill it out, you're gonna be rethreading the air around the bolt! There's NOTHING to rethread! The Cap'n

[fiid]

Since you probably have a lot of time and ca$h invested in this - even though it sucks - I'd say you'd be happier in the long run if you split the case and put a new one in....

Just my 2c.

[Bartlett 914]

I

You don't understand! Look at the picture. You drill it out, you're gonna be rethreading the air around the bolt! There's NOTHING to rethread! The Cap'n

I was refering to making an extension to the bolt by drilling and the tapping the broken bolt and drilling and taping the extension part which has an external thread. Holding the two together with a stud. A set screw could be used as a stud. Some form of epoxy like locktite green or high temp epoxy to keep them together.

Mark