V-8 (Renegade style) water pump, BB Chrysler / Edelbrock / no fits Options

[type47fan]

After a night of general revelry and moderate alcohol consumption (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) , during the ensuing fitful sleep, I had a dream that one of the club engineer/entrepreneurs mated an electric clutch (read: a/c compressor) to the remote water pump. It activated through a temperature switch that turned on the pump at the opening temperature of the thermostat. . . . can it be done? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Sammy]

I drilled 4 holes (3/16" diameter) in my thermostat, never had a problem even with 5000 rpm shifts when cold.

[drive-ability]

After a night of general revelry and moderate alcohol consumption (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) , during the ensuing fitful sleep, I had a dream that one of the club engineer/entrepreneurs mated an electric clutch (read: a/c compressor) to the remote water pump. It activated through a temperature switch that turned on the pump at the opening temperature of the thermostat. . . . can it be done? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

I was thinking the same thing, I have been looking at different A/C compressors shapes etc. Mounting the collar which holds the clutch bearing and the added clearance needed is another factor. Some smog pumps have clutches and they are a bit smaller. I would think you could do it but I am not up for that just now. An electric pump may just be the way to go. The pumps are pricey but the replacement motors are reasonable. I think a good pump is around 400 with adapters etc and the replacement motors are 180 or so.

[cali914]

You want to make it simple get the Mezeire 55gpm electric remote water pump, and place it on the bottom exit of the radiator and your done. I have had mine for two years no problems. Also I just added the renegade radiator and was at thunder Hill on the track with temps below 180 with a 160 degree thermostat. The whole key to the system is the radiator. Same set up without the radiator last year and I was 210-215 on the track. If you are running it on the street you can even use an electric water pump with 37gpm and it will work fine. Cali 914

[Brad Roberts]

Cali914,

do you have a oil temp gauge and pressue gauge? The last time I ran a well sorted V8 conversion car at Thill.. the oil temps went CRAZY. The water temp was fine. 3-4 laps of running 2:09's spiked the oil temp to over 260deg. Curious if you found this?

Back to the pump:

I got really really tired of blowing off hoses (this was before AndyL figured out we needed the "bead" in the end of the fittings) I HIGHLY suggest everyone stay away from the cast iron impellers. I personally would rather have the failure point be a $40 pump than have to deal with the lines on the front of the engine. The pump is easy to get to compared to those lines.

B

[marks914]

Cali914,

do you have a oil temp gauge and pressue gauge? The last time I ran a well sorted V8 conversion car at Thill.. the oil temps went CRAZY. The water temp was fine. 3-4 laps of running 2:09's spiked the oil temp to over 260deg. Curious if you found this?

Back to the pump:

I got really really tired of blowing off hoses (this was before AndyL figured out we needed the "bead" in the end of the fittings) I HIGHLY suggest everyone stay away from the cast iron impellers. I personally would rather have the failure point be a $40 pump than have to deal with the lines on the front of the engine. The pump is easy to get to compared to those lines.

B

I have heard of one guy with oil temp issues, he snapped the crank. I don't have an oil temp gauge, pressure seems fine though.
Has anyone experienceed oil temp probs? I also am not running an oil cooler on my 305 I have put on 25,000 miles since the conversion, no problems yet.
Mark

[Brad Roberts]

From what I have gathered.. 90% of the conversion owners out there do not have a oil temp gauge. As far as pressure goes.. it only went down 20 some odd lbs of pressure when it was REALLY hot. It was still in the 40-50lb range when on the gas.

The track is a extreme "test" of the conversion systems.

I will say this.. all of the late model trucks/cars have oil coolers of some sort built into the cooling system.


B

[aircooledboy]

I have heard of one guy with oil temp issues, he snapped the crank. I don't have an oil temp gauge, pressure seems fine though.
Has anyone experienceed oil temp probs? I also am not running an oil cooler on my 305 I have put on 25,000 miles since the conversion, no problems yet.
Mark

No, you can't freakin' snap a crank!!!!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

Oil temp gauge and cooler are on the short list for this summer. Car has 10,000+ miles and a few medium length trips on it since the rebuild and running like a top, but no 15 hour trips either. I will be very interested to see how oil temps relate to water temps at higher speeds / longer trips.

BTW, on the "blowing water hoses issue", before I plumbed in my heat I was having a problem with pre-stat opening pressure breaking the seal where the Renegade serpentine system plate covered the water pump alignment dowl hole on the 350 block. Once I set up the heat, the core acted as a by-pass until the stat opened up, but then I was getting too much radiant heat in the cabin from my heater core, even with the temp control valve off. So, I made a core by-pass H valve set up with three cut off valves and some barb fittings. When closed, that leaves me with nothing more than a by-pass loop, which solved my warmup temp/ excess pressure issues. Soooo, the point of this rambling story is, if you guys with excess pressure concerns set up a by pass route, you shouldn't have any problems blowing things apart.

[byndbad914]

do you have a oil temp gauge and pressue gauge? The last time I ran a well sorted V8 conversion car at Thill.. the oil temps went CRAZY. The water temp was fine. 3-4 laps of running 2:09's spiked the oil temp to over 260deg. Curious if you found this?

Brad, I have both gauges in my car - at Willow last time I had 200-210deg water temps, but the oil was close to 280 at one point and was idling at about 17-20lbs of pressure (idle for me is around 1200rpm) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) While going tube chassis, I am adding a dry sump system and big-ass oil cooler.

That said, Chevrolets of any 283/327/350/400 variety are the shittiest designed engines EVER, and the oiling is just one of them. It is scary how low a stock volume pump will idle once the car is warm, and put a HV pump on and turn some rpm and you will suck a 5qt pan dry on the track. For serious tracking of a 350-style Chevy, you almost have to go dry sump IMO, or put such a huge pan in it that you drag it on the ground in a 914. I would run no less than a HV pump, cooler, and an 8qt if not 9qt pan on a SBC on a road course. I have seen 7qts ran - and did that myself - but 1. I knew I was pushing it, 2. saw it on my temp/press gauges, and 3. intended to upgrade to dry sump when the project was running, tested and ready for more $$ to be dumped into it.

Cali914 - I am with you as I also have the Meziere 55gpm pump!

[Brad Roberts]

I agree. Serious track conversion cars should be dry sumped. I have used the Moroso road racing pan with multiple trap doors/kick outs with NO luck. You are correct about sucking the pan dry and putting all the oil into the valve covers!!

I have followed along with your project. One day I would like to see it in person. I like the direction you are headed. I have been involved with some serious 914's in the past. Yours appears to be heades towards the "serious side"


B

do you have a oil temp gauge and pressue gauge? The last time I ran a well sorted V8 conversion car at Thill.. the oil temps went CRAZY. The water temp was fine. 3-4 laps of running 2:09's spiked the oil temp to over 260deg. Curious if you found this?

Brad, I have both gauges in my car - at Willow last time I had 200-210deg water temps, but the oil was close to 280 at one point and was idling at about 17-20lbs of pressure (idle for me is around 1200rpm) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) While going tube chassis, I am adding a dry sump system and big-ass oil cooler.

That said, Chevrolets of any 283/327/350/400 variety are the shittiest designed engines EVER, and the oiling is just one of them. It is scary how low a stock volume pump will idle once the car is warm, and put a HV pump on and turn some rpm and you will suck a 5qt pan dry on the track. For serious tracking of a 350-style Chevy, you almost have to go dry sump IMO, or put such a huge pan in it that you drag it on the ground in a 914. I would run no less than a HV pump, cooler, and an 8qt if not 9qt pan on a SBC on a road course. I have seen 7qts ran - and did that myself - but 1. I knew I was pushing it, 2. saw it on my temp/press gauges, and 3. intended to upgrade to dry sump when the project was running, tested and ready for more $$ to be dumped into it.

Cali914 - I am with you as I also have the Meziere 55gpm pump!

[marks914]

owee!