Need Help..What should I offer for this original 914-6 Options

[kenschipper]

Time to turn to the knowledge of everyone here on the list for advice on how much to offer for an original 914-6. After these many years of looking at 6’s I now have one exclusively available and the decision is harder than I thought it would be. (Sorry for the length but after reading a lot of club posts I know it’s better to be thorough.)

Even if you can only respond to one item, please take a moment to do so. It would be greatly appreciated,

The vehicle is owned by the father of one of the graphic designers that works at my wife’s design business. I’ve been talking to him for about 2 years and he finally decided to sell. (I currently have a ’74 2.0 which will be up for sale if the deal goes through.)

He is the second owner and has had it for about 28-30 years. It has been stored in his garage for the last 8-9 years.

The car is in stock mechanical condition, with 87,000 miles with no major work (engine, transmission, brakes). The gas had a preservative added when it was parked (which seem to good for about 2 years). There is no gas left in the tank and no gum buildup on the bottom although I’m presuming that the fuel lines, pump and carbs will likely need cleaning, rebuilding or replacing.

The linkage shifts better than my 914-4 just sitting there but that’s not much of a real test. There does not appear to be any rust under the battery (it has been repainted in this area but poking with a screwdriver did not reveal any week spots.) I did not realize that the sixes did not have a drain hole in this area, is that correct? Battery tray is in perfect condition. What looks like rust in the photos is actually the original signal orange paint.

Things are a bit greasy underneath and in the engine compartment around the filter. Not well maintained in these areas but the grease may have prevented some rust.

Could not get a good look at the trailing arm mounting points under the battery as there was no room on that side of the car, but the doors open and closes without any binding. Could not see the longitudinals as the tires are flat and there was no room to get the valances off.

Floors under and behind seats appear to be sound and the trunk does not show any sign of rust although the black paint could be hiding some.

Front trunk does have some rust damage at the left front. There appears to be about an 8” line where the floor is probably rusted through. Not down in the spare tire well but about 2” from the light bucket. The seam between the floor and fender in this area (left side) from the light bucket back to the bulkhead also appears fairly rusted, about half as bad as the area above. (Pictures show some detail)

There is also rust on all the seams under both light buckets. Not all the way through, but worse in real life that the pictures show.

There are a couple of small bubbles (1/8”) on the fenders below the roll bar vinyl about an inch out on each side. Paint is intact but we all know what is underneath.

Interior is only ok but way better than many I have seen. Each seat has one tear in a bolster, and carpets will need replacing along with dash and door vinyl.

The only changes from stock are cosmetic as follows.

Car was repainted 15 years ago in a Tangerine Orange. Original color was Signal Orange. Trunks are both painted black with a spray can. Door jambs were sprayed correctly but engine compartment is a mixture of both colors and underside of front and back hood were sprayed black, also with a spray can. Black is kind of rough.

Fiberglass rear spoiler molded onto the steel truck lid and fenders. Probably looked real nice at one time but you can see the line where the fiberglass and metal meet and a few spots are not perfectly flat.

Clear Plexiglas sunroof professionally cut into fiberglass roof. (Can’t figure out why this was added but oh well.)

After market steering wheel (original is included)

Neff bars on front and rear along with two extra driving lights.

Non-stock gauge and switch added to the original center cubby hole.


Soooo…

This is what I’m figuring it might cost to get on the road again and this is where I really need the lists help to see if my guesses are right. I’m not looking for a concurs car so I’m open to modifications that don’t vary far from the cars origins. I’m looking at SF Bay Area pricing.

Engine
With 87,000 miles it is at least due for a valve job. (I can drop the engine and bring it in to a rebuilder. Top end only I’m guessing would be about 4,000 to 5000K, but it would still be a 2.0.

Would it be better to just look for a used 3.0 or 3.2 (going to a 2.2, 2.4, or 2.7 seems like it would cost as much or more than the 3’s). What should I expect to pay for a decent used engine? (Would I also need new carbs, or is EFI a better way to go.) I do a lot of spirited driving and try to get to a couple of autocross events and am planning on at least 1 DE each year. May add a roll bar in the future if I really get hooked on the DE’s.

Carbs
I’ve rebuilt others (not Webers) so I’m assuming I could do these myself if I stay with the 2..0.

Transmission
Won’t know until I drive it but have seen prices around 1,800 for a rebuild. Assume that going with a 3.0 would require a billet intermediate plate and lockout of first. Any ideas on how much extra this might be?

Chassis
I have no idea what fixing the rust up front might cost. Should I just replace the whole spare tire well? What about the head light buckets.

Body
I have heard that a decent paint job would be about 4,500 0 5,500. Would do the trunks myself. Anyone have some real life experience here?

Interior
I have done this before and estimate that it would be about $750 to make it look nice.


It looks like nicer 914-6’s are going for about 23-25K at the moment so doing the math…

Engine (2.0) 5,000
Misc engine (carbs etc) 500
Chassis 2,000 ??
Body 5,000

This gets me to about 13,000 or maybe about 15,000 if I go with a 3.0 or 3.2 (adding an up front oil cooler.)

That means I would have to buy the car for about 10,000 for this to pencil out.

Anyone see any areas where I’m off on my guesses.

Many thanks to any one who can help me on this. I will deciding within the next week or two. (I know if I decide not to go with it that there will be others that are interested. I will be happy to forward your contact information to the seller if he is interested. Please hold off sending anything until I post my decision here.)

Thanks for any help you can offer.



Additional photos follow.

Ken Schipper

[kenschipper]

Nice find. I'd keep it stock, just not to many stock ones left. As far as the engine with 87k, clean it up, get it running, take compression / leakdown. Take the reading after putting a couple of hundred miles on engine to get everything freed up. It really probably doesn't need a top end done. Probably going to need carbs done.

If it hasn't had a top end done, the heads are probably set up for leaded gas, you might want to treat gas with Marvel Mystery Oil. Unleaded will eventually tear them up.

There should be a drain hole under the battery, mine has one. Painted closed?

Check for rust with a ice pick, unless it's a really large bad area, I don't think I'd replace complete panels. Small area's would be more of a patch/seal/paint type repair. My battery tray was pitted but hadn't gone thru, I wire brushed it then filled with JB Weld (acid resistant) smoothed it out and painted it. The area on the rockers that usually rusts out got a coat of JB Weld too (rust barrier) before painting.

You can get a tranny rebuild for less that $1800. I bought a spare, took both apart and built one excellent one for less than $500. There are probably someone around you that could help with a rebuild, one day job (lots of coffee breaks).

Great price at $10k. Even stock I can keep up with the turbo's on the twisty's. Originals are getting few and far between.

Good Luck, Don

Anyone else have info on the drain holes at the front corners of the engine compartment. This car definitely does not have any on the battery side.

[Bleyseng]

They came with them so its plugged or been patched over. There wasn't any difference is almost all the sheet metal between a 4 and a 6. Small things like engine mounts, washer bottle mount, steering mount etc.

[Pat Garvey]

Looks like a good solid project six, for the right price. I'd do it at 10 - but all the badges ("badges? We don....") & the John Force sticker crap is gross! Thankfully it all comes off. Go for it!

[G e o r g e]

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Looks like a fairly clean and original car with some "custom" PO mods.

I think its a $10-12k car as it sits and maybe more if the PO gets the car running. The rust issues might devalue the price but you don't show detailed pics of it.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) nice find! yes, it'll need some TLC, but it looks like a really solid base.

i'm jealous ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Andy

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I'd buy it if I were in the market, and I'd probably keep it stock. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

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[Al Meredith]

I noticed that this 914-6 has "nerf bars" front and rear. I just bought a 73 914 that we are building as a race car and it had the same "nerf bars". Does anyone know about this option?? Thanks, Al

[madd_dogg_914]

I noticed that this 914-6 has "nerf bars" front and rear. I just bought a 73 914 that we are building as a race car and it had the same "nerf bars". Does anyone know about this option?? Thanks, Al

I may be wrong, but IIRC those were an aftermarket option, not a factory option. I have seen a set on eBay before, NIB, for around $200 I think. It had an original ad, but I forget the name of the manufacturer. I do remember that they were listed as "bumper protectors" or something to that effect.

-Chris

[highways]

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Looks like a fairly clean and original car with some "custom" PO mods.

I think its a $10-12k car as it sits and maybe more if the PO gets the car running. The rust issues might devalue the price but you don't show detailed pics of it.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) nice find! yes, it'll need some TLC, but it looks like a really solid base.

i'm jealous ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Andy

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I'd buy it if I were in the market, and I'd probably keep it stock. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

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That there car should clean up real nice like... as soon as ya kick out the Dukes of Hazard.

[LvSteveH]

I'm going for $8000 as is. Being a non-runner is a pretty big deal. It's a big project to take on, so make sure you love it, because that will help you stay the course through the tough times; and there will be tough times!

[Bleyseng]

Usually the $8000 6's for sale have been with trashed interiors or other big rust issues.
Rusty paid for his 6 about $8k years ago for a non runner.

So for $8k it would be Highway robbery IIHO

[Flat VW]

I would jump on that like fried chicken, wanna flip it? CALL ME.


John (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wavey.gif)

[LvSteveH]

Usually the $8000 6's for sale have been with trashed interiors or other big rust issues.
Rusty paid for his 6 about $8k years ago for a non runner.

So for $8k it would be Highway robbery IIHO

It sounds like Ken is trying to keep his money together on it, so I was figuring in a little for labor. On the open market, sure it would bring $10k or a bit more. But I don't think $8k is robbery by any means. He asked what he should offer, so I think $8k is a fair offer all the way around. If the guy wants full market then you have to make it available to the market. Just my take.

[ottox914]

I'd keep it stock, and cut up/mod a 4 cyl for your go faster car. I'd also offer you: $8001 after you seal the deal...

[G e o r g e]

I'd also offer you: $8001 after you seal the deal...

$8002 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Gustl]

I'd also offer you: $8001 after you seal the deal...

$8002 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

$ 8500 - including shipping to my door (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) Gustl

[tod914]

Looks like a great car for a 4 conversion! Good luck with it.

[Heeltoe914]

9500 and up. I think that car has more add-ons than we can see from the pic, the Owner looks to have done some AX.
9501 am i high bidder? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/boldblue.gif)

[dekman]

Ken, give us an update? Remember, take your time...no rush. You will probably keep this car for a long time. Send me pic's of your other options.....rob (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wavey.gif)

[Crazyhippy]

I'm in the keep it stock camp for once in my life.

If you are going to be hotrodding away, why start w/ a rare car? The motor mount is easy in the grand scheme of things, so now you are paying big $$$ for a vin #

BJH

[carreraguy]

Hi Ken!
Haven't heard from you for quite a while!
I say keep it original, not that many around. But recognize that you'll have to pour more $$ into it to bring it back, thus offer accordingly. If you can get it for $8K I would say go for it; especially if you can do some (or most) of the work yourself. Let us know how it works out!
Later,

[MJHanna]

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