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> The "Outlaw Motor" Build, Documenting my 2.0 Rebuild
Brando
post Sep 11 2006, 11:30 PM
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Closeup of refurbed rods:


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Jake Raby
post Sep 12 2006, 07:06 AM
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Unless my eyes are playing tricks on me....

I spy a crack heading toward the exhaust seat from the plug hole in the last pic that was posted... Its the register on the right.

Please tell me that its not there and that the machinist didn't allow the head to leave the shop without being repaired..

It could be in the picture only- I hope so..

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bd1308
post Sep 12 2006, 07:14 AM
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Yep. I see something like a crack too.

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Brando
post Sep 12 2006, 12:52 PM
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Wow... I didn't even see that! How could you even tell from the picture? I looked and looked and looked at the head (and picture) and couldn't see anything. Then I busted out a emry board and just lightly went around the spark plug hole.

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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) $$$$$$ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I wonder how much this is gonna run me to fix. I'm not going back to RIMCO for anything more than a valve job, so where to go? RAT? FAT? Clayton's guy? Mark Henry? I'm boned and broke. Maybe I'm just destined to have this engine exceed the $6k mark because of tons of little shit like this. First the bottom support on one case half for the windage tray is fuct, now this. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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Moneypit
post Sep 12 2006, 01:27 PM
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Jeez, It's like Jake smells imperfection...

Sorry to hear about that... at least it was caught before your 6k engine disentegrated itself...... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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Jake Raby
post Sep 12 2006, 01:48 PM
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I know where to look- I do this everyday, all day- 18 hours a day generally.

Any shop that lets a visual crack leave their doors needs to be closed down for incompetence! generally Rimco will not do this, but tyhey should have at least told you and let you make the decision as to the repairs to be made.

That crack tells me there are other cracks that can't be seen.. If you heat that head up to about 300 degrees you'll find more- guaranteed. When the chamber cracks its a tell tale sign of more issues.

This is why we refuse to use any rebuilt heads on our engines and have for years, we start with a new casting and go from there..

Pack that head up and send it to HAM.....

BTW- my most expensive sub 2.3 L engine kit costs less than 6K- FYI
It comes with BRAND NEW super duper heads.

projects that begin with compromise, end in demise... Don't be a statistic.

BTW- this isn't the first time I have seen cracked heads posted on this forum from shops. A lot of local machine shops think "Its just an old VW engine, I'll let it fly".... They need their asses taken out in the woods and tied to a tree while being beat twice every hour for 3 days. Bastards.

Don't trust ANYTHING you get from a local shop, have every journal measured, rebalance the rods and check the fit of the wrist pins.
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Brando
post Sep 12 2006, 01:51 PM
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Jake, do you have the contact info for HAM?
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Jake Raby
post Sep 12 2006, 01:58 PM
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www.haminc.biz
706 613 7454
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Bleyseng
post Sep 12 2006, 02:07 PM
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Len is the man and send him BOTH heads to inspect.
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Aaron Cox
post Sep 12 2006, 02:16 PM
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ouch brando....

rimco did a valve job and seats but didnt point out the cracks?
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Brando
post Sep 12 2006, 02:16 PM
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Thank you Jake, I phoned him a little while ago.

Aaron, I'm suprised too. I guess I got what I paid for, $800 worth of service. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Rimco? Never again.
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Brando
post Oct 2 2006, 03:43 PM
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Wellp, just took the heads back to RIMCO. Says they should only charge for spark plug repair and broken stud removal (yay). Now, where can I get stainless studs for intake/exhaust?
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Aaron Cox
post Oct 2 2006, 05:36 PM
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QUOTE(Brando @ Oct 2 2006, 02:43 PM) *

Wellp, just took the heads back to RIMCO. Says they should only charge for spark plug repair and broken stud removal (yay). Now, where can I get stainless studs for intake/exhaust?



uh... welding on the plug boss and remachining it requires seats and guides to be done again no?

heat of welder does wierd things to seats and guides....
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Jake Raby
post Oct 2 2006, 06:15 PM
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After welding all the important surfaces and tolerances must be checked. Generally the seats will need to be recut and the registers surfaced.
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Brando
post Oct 2 2006, 07:57 PM
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QUOTE(Aaron Cox @ Oct 2 2006, 04:36 PM) *

uh... welding on the plug boss and remachining it requires seats and guides to be done again no?

heat of welder does wierd things to seats and guides....


QUOTE(Jake Raby @ Oct 2 2006, 05:15 PM) *

After welding all the important surfaces and tolerances must be checked. Generally the seats will need to be recut and the registers surfaced.


Yes. All the work I had done previously will be re-done (no extra charge). I'll only be charged for the studs and what the normal cost of spark plug boss repair is, not the rest of the machine work that is being done again.

Jake / Other engine builders: Any hints on where I can buy some stainless intake/exhaust studs? Only took two broken in those heads to convince me to change over...
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jd74914
post Oct 2 2006, 08:20 PM
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What size and thread pitch? Are they step studs?
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Bleyseng
post Oct 2 2006, 08:28 PM
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I just use copper nuts.
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sean_v8_914
post Oct 2 2006, 08:28 PM
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Jake, will the head turn into an anode with an SS stud? repeated heat cycles and SS on soft AL makes me think.
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sean_v8_914
post Oct 2 2006, 08:29 PM
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high temp anti-seize
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Twystd1
post Oct 2 2006, 08:54 PM
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Brando, Either walnut shell the combustion chambers or solvent/scrub them yourself. Heat em up and see what ya really have.

Use some NDT dye penetrant on the heads and see what cracks are really there. (McFadden Dale) (I like Zyglo brand myself)

Now that YOU have seen what cracks are in the castings. You can make sure RIMCO did their job.

Bro, they can't fix what they can't see. And too often they DON'T clean the parts well enough to look. (as in your case)

I suggest YOU point out EXACTLY what you want them to do. Then hold them accountable for the work.

I don't trust ANY machinist anymore to get heads, crank, rods, etc. exactly correct.
I re-check every thing at their shop with MY and their measuring tools before I take my parts off their premises.

I make sure my stuff is exactly what I paid for. I trust no one on this. Not even John.

Unless I am willing to pay the HUGE bucks for Uber perfect machine work. And I know those guys too. $$$$$$$$
This is what I am stuck with.

There are so few machinists around anymore that machine to a high tolerance anymore. The ones that do.... Still give a dam about quality.

They have learned how to get a clientele that is willing to pay for high end work. And that my friend is not easy.
Primarily because no one is willing to pay the machinist the bucks to do it right anymore. Most people just want the best price. And that's exactly what they get.
So the machinist's just start doing adequate work instead of dead nuts work.
I have seen it to many times. I have seen great machinists just stop caring. No one wants to pay. It sucks....... And it is reality.

Guys like Len have already built all of the jigs, honing plates and boring plates, millsetups, etc.... for everything that comes his way. That saves on time and $$$s.
Hell, setting up a Mill to machine a part can take longer than the machining process sometimes.

I think HAM INC. pricing is cheap for what ya get.

Don't forget Brando. I spend at least one day a week in someones machine shop. From the little guys to a few big boys.

I have seen who cares and who doesn't. And I have seen why.......

By the way. In my opinion. Fuck Rimco.

I have seen MUCH of their work having to be corrected by others as of late. They are waste of time for most final maching.

Teir lifter bore work is the worst I have ever seen. And it isn't indexed to the center of the cam either. They fucked up sleeving my block for lifters after that. They couldn't figure out how to get the lifters sleeves indexed to the middle of the cam.... Morons I tell you.

Exception being is that they are great for rough machining as they have all the jigs. (Cylinders, blocks) Then I can take the rough stuff to my guys for final machning. Saves set up time for my guys.

This way I get nats ass premium end result for a better price.
And I have to drive the parts all over hell to get the deal.

If there is any way I can help...you know I will.

If you have the bucks. Go straight to Len and get your money back from Rimco or eat the loss.

By the way. I think I have 4 extra 911 piston squirters if ya need them for your build.

Regards,
Your nut case friend.....

Clayton
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