SOT: Looking for Experience w/Epoxy Floor Coatings, Which ones work? Options

[db9146]

Okay, I'm ready to put the epoxy to the floor. There are water-based epoxies and 2-part epoxies. Of the 2-part epoxies I have seen, there are 65% solids and 100% solids.

With the water-based epoxy, it takes several coats to add up to 8-10 mils thick. However, with the 2-part, 100% solids epoxy, they claim that you get a 13-15 mil thick finish in one application. The prep is the same for either and is key to success.

I have looked at the water-based brands at Lowes and HD. I called Rustoleum and they have an industrial version that is tougher than the stuff they sell through HD but still water-based I believe. U-Coat-It is another water-based epoxy.

Has anyone tried the 2-part epoxy floor covering?

[carr914]

I sell specialty paint products and have a TRUE 1 part epoxy floor paint. You can PM me for specifics on my product. Now to your questions. In the 2part systems, you have both water based and solvant based epoxys. I believe your solids are way off, but that does not mean you have to put more coats of the water based product down. In fact you don't want the product too thick or you would have problems with the floor coming up. Water-based systems are fine for home use, with solvant-based intended fot commericial use or heavy traffic. Please DO NOT buy the 1 Part products at either of the 2 box stores as those products are epoxy fortified, which means nothing as the 2% epoxy never bonds with anything. Also beware of the 2 part epoxies available at these box stores. Their coverage is questionable and as you have found they offer the cheapest version of the products available. All that being said, these are the keys points. #1. preperation is the most important part of your job. Skimp here and you could use $1,000 a gallon product and still screw up. Be aware that once you mix the 2 part epoxy, you have a very limited pot life and you will have none left over to touch up. The 2 parts systems go in about a 10 X 10 area at a time. That is why they include the color chips to broadcast on the floor. They throw your vision off so you don't notice that the product doesn't color match to itself.
Hit me with as many questions as you want. Do it right the first time

T.C.

Here is a picture of my floor

[URY914]

http://www.garagejournal.com/

Go here, there is a entire forum section on shop flooring

[Borderline]

I just put a couple of coats of the Rustoleum "garage" epoxy on my relatively new floor. Yes prep is crucial, I had a couple spots where the epoxy didn't cover oil stains that I thought I had cleaned up. So far I really like it. Just noticed the other day that I had a couple spots chipping up....I guess the jury it still out (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[chunger]

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?show...amp;hl=polyurea



This polyurea finish worked GREAT for me over acid stained concrete. . .it's thinner than epoxy but stronger on the surface. Epoxy fills gaps better, but the Polyurea has a tougher surface. I hear some folks undercoat with epoxy and then top it with the 2 part polyurea. . . but my original thread got moved to the sandbox. I posted details on how to order the stuff. . . Lindy, the very knowledgeable lady I gave contact info for also sells 2 part Epoxy finishes. . . let her know what you're trying to do.

This Aliphatic Polyurea finish can go to 10 mils in one pass (although it's better to do 2 thinner 5 mil coats), can be walked on in 2 hours, and you can drive forklifts on it.


-'Chung

[Brett W]

I have used a two part epoxy from Sherwin Williams. It is some tough stuff. A rag soaked in laquer thinner won't soften or lift it. Floor jacks, car dollies, etc won't make a dent in it. You can find it a Sherwin Williams Store.

[jimtab]

I sell specialty paint products and have a TRUE 1 part epoxy floor paint. You can PM me for specifics on my product. Now to your questions. In the 2part systems, you have both water based and solvant based epoxys. I believe your solids are way off, but that does not mean you have to put more coats of the water based product down. In fact you don't want the product too thick or you would have problems with the floor coming up. Water-based systems are fine for home use, with solvant-based intended fot commericial use or heavy traffic. Please DO NOT buy the 1 Part products at either of the 2 box stores as those products are epoxy fortified, which means nothing as the 2% epoxy never bonds with anything. Also beware of the 2 part epoxies available at these box stores. Their coverage is questionable and as you have found they offer the cheapest version of the products available. All that being said, these are the keys points. #1. preperation is the most important part of your job. Skimp here and you could use $1,000 a gallon product and still screw up. Be aware that once you mix the 2 part epoxy, you have a very limited pot life and you will have none left over to touch up. The 2 parts systems go in about a 10 X 10 area at a time. That is why they include the color chips to broadcast on the floor. They throw your vision off so you don't notice that the product doesn't color match to itself.
Hit me with as many questions as you want. Do it right the first time

T.C.

Here is a picture of my floor

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I am a buyer for a commercial industrial store and our main floor paint is Rustoleum' s products, all seem to work well for the applications they are intended...the Sierra product is a very heavy duty item and not really what you want....go with the 1 part and spend 60-70% of your time on prep and use decent application tools...crappy tools=crappy job most of the time, and be unique among homeowners and read the fucking directions first...I know that as men it isn't our way but do it anyway, understand the product before you use it. My .02

[TimT]

Make sure you dont have a problem with moisture.. BTDT our shop is very close to tidal estuaries, the building was built without moisture barriers under the slab.

Result.. the industrial grade epoxy coating is lifting and peeling off in sheets.

And yes we had a Pro guide us through the application process (a racer friend of ours makes the stuff)

We cleaned and shotblasted the floor, applied according to mfg spec, and its peeling.

Then again the water table is just a few feet below the slab of the building.

[davep]

My garage floor suffers from the top layer of concrete flaking off in patches. This is possibly from water puddling at times in the years before we bought the place 20 years ago. If I can remove all the flaking concrete, what would be the best material to resurface the floor before applying the epoxy?

[ChrisFoley]

I did a lot of reading here and then bought their 100% epoxy solids 2 part gray floor coating. The 100% solids product is thick and heavy. It's difficult to mix and difficult to spread. OTOH, it has no solvent fumes and goes on full thickness in one application.
The only prep I did was muriatic acid etch and thorough power wash after. It seems to be adhering well for the most part. I spread it a little too thin at first, and I got some air bubbles in places. In retrospect I think using a primer/seal coat would have been a good idea but would have increased the project time considerably.