Build your own Combo (904) Gauge, Parts 1 and 2 Options

[914forme]

Next you add the adapter ( for lack of better term) for the idiot light tubes to the three holes you marked. You might have to file some of your epoxy away to get them to fit. You also need to add an adapter ring for the low fuel warning light. It is the hole to the left of the fuel gauge spade connectors. A picture on the next post shows this in detail.

[914forme]

Next is more fun than you should legally be allowed to have. You have to add the old spade connectors back in for the old style fuel gauges - if you are using the later style - skip this step but you don't know what you are missing.

You take and hold the black plastic piece in the proper spot, add the heavy paper washer back onto the top of the spade connector, and then crimp the two side stubs, see that was easy. I split the paper washer, I will fix that with some insulating goo once I finished the soldering.

[914forme]

Next is the best part marking where you need to cut to get the idiot lights up and through the gauge faces. Rinse and repeat these steps 3 times. Then you cut around your pencil marks. I have a 1/2 in chassis punch I use to do this with, makes nice clean holes. But you can use a standard set of snips, or a nibbler to do this also. A file if you really wanted to, or a dremel if you have a steady hand.

[914forme]

Now you mount a gauge , mount the idiot light tube, mount the next gauge, mount a tube, mount the third and mount a tube. With luck you won't have to adjust your cuts.

[914forme]

Next up fun with a hot piece of metal, and some melty stuff called solder. You have to solder the old fuel gauge leads onto the spade connector.

[914forme]

Wow that last close up shot was out of focus. I took photography lessons for Sir Andy.

We are getting close now!

You get to test fit the inner gauge face onto the gauges.

Note: I have one light tube off, just enough that it does not stay in the hole on the gauge face.

I will show you my solution to the gauge face issue. In the next installment.

[914forme]

Only a few more steps to the finish of this project - now I just need to find the time. BTW, I have three ways to hold the inner face in the inner face in the proper orientation of the face.

1. the way the original directions say to do it. Clips epoxied to the side of the gauge, ouch. That was really a pain to do.

2. You cut out the original face and use its tabs to support the new one, in place this requires epoxy also. I will take pictures of this way.

3. I have come up with a better way, or at least I think it is better, we will see. See you next time.

I love cliff hangers!

[914forme]

Okay lets do it!

I told you I would show you my two favorite ways to do the face, number 1, you cut out the original face and use it to space your above the lights.

Just add a little of your fav epoxy to hold the two together and you might have to touch up a little around the outside edge.

[914forme]

And for the cliff hanger!

This cures a bunch of ills, like my one light tube being out of place, it is a postive mechanical fastener, and it is so easy, wish I came up with it 10 years ago.

First you need to mark the center of the face, if you got one with out a hole. If your building one with a black center this might not work for you. Or it could, with a little camoflage work once you are done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Next you drill it just a little smaller than the outer face of your counter sunk machine screw. Then you counter sink the face.

Next you drill the center of the back face, and here is the simple part you bolt it togther. Just use a rubber spacer ot keep the screw from grounding out any of the guage connectors.

[914forme]

More pictures

[914forme]

Again my Sir Andy school of photography is paying off!

Next you need to cover that back woods engineering! If you want the black flat face, mix up a little filler and fill it , and paint it. Or do as I do, use a silver button, and paint it black, I like a profile change, adds a little depth and dimension to the gauge. For this one I needed a silver button, so that is what I did.

In the instructions it says to drill out the silver button. A little tip is the silver button is mounted on a steel rivet. You can gently pry the two apart. Use your fav glue and put it back on. I used Valco HV-350 It will glue about anything to anything, and is paintable if you get messy. Add a dab of glue and hide that screw!

There you go you will not know that screw was there now from the outside. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)

[914forme]

You might want to let that glue dry wheel before butting it up. the glue could outgas and cause a film to be created on the inner glass.

Next you add the intermediate gauge face. then clean the glass or plastic and add that. If-using glass, 100% isoperic (sp?) alcohol will clean it up really nice. Note: I am waiting on the outgas process to complete, but want to finish this post so, my glass is not clean.

[914forme]

Next you snap the outer ring back onto the Gauge can. I use a brass punch, once done some paint will have flaked off, touch it up, you don't want rust. the rubber mount ring will cover up most of your pro paint job here.

[914forme]

Thats all except putting it into the dash and wiring it up.

Now I get to go an grab a cold one! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rocking nana.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[John]

Those look great. Almost as nice as mine.

I use the late fuel gauges in mine.

[Dave_Darling]

Me, too, John. It was easy to use the late fuel gauge; I just transferred the same holes used for the other gauges to the lower location used by the fuel gauge. A bit of tracing paper helped, and of course I stuck it in a drill press to make the actual holes. It was a pretty easy modification of the "early fuel gauge" backplate that I got with my kit.

--DD

[PiperSpeed]

Well here it goes the step by step instructions on how to build one of the kits. Since I helped do the original production run, back in the day, its been about 11 years ago since we did these. But there is interest in it so I will show you how.

Step one, the original kit. It included a gauge face, a backing plate and a ground lug. Also included instructions on how to do this, and some of the items where real PITAs to do. I will included some changes I do, and items that might make the installation a little easier.

Hi Steven,

Do you know where I can get one of these kits ?

Thanks,

Jan

[Steve]

I bought mine from John.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=58970