Distributor choice for 2.0 w/ webers, which is the best distributor? Options

[bribar]

I am new to 914's. I just purchased a 73 2.0. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

The car has what the PO referred to as a 3/4 cam. It also has dual Weber carburators.

The car has the original Vaccum advance disrtibutor, with the vaccum advance mechanism hooked up to one of the webers.

The car starts right up and idles fine. It seems like it is missing until 3K then it seems to pull hard and run smooth.

What is the best distributor choice for a 2.0 with webers and a cam?

009, 050 like my 356, 010?

Is there any chance this old Vaccum advance dizzy is gonna work?

Thanks,

Brian

[Aaron Cox]

3/4 cam = 270 degree duration? (guessing)

mallory unilite dizzy is the best bar-none. optical pickup, no more points. set it to 12 deg initial, 28 ish final advance with the grey grey spring combo (all advance in by 3k)

You will FEEL a difference.

mallory is the best, but 050's and 009's have been used

what jetting? could be part of the "missing"

[lapuwali]

What's this "old vacuum advanced dizzy"? Any part number on it? Have you check it's advance curve with a timing light? It could just sticky advance weights.

Your symptoms actually sound a lot like a blocked idle jet, which is VERY common with IDFs. So common, you should learn how to clean them, and expect to reclean them periodically. If it is an idle jet, then check your fuel tank for rust and dirt, and change your fuel filter.

[TravisNeff]

your stock FI distributor is a lot better than the 009 or 050. The 009 has something like 15 degrees of advance, the 050 has a lot more advance.

[lotus_65]

if the timing is set right, you'd think it would run ok...

mine did the same until i put smaller choke tubes back in. it had 32mm's and i put 28's in, cleared it right up. now i'm looking for cheap 30's because i lost some power doing this.

it might be a little nervewracking pulling apart the carbs, but you'll need to (unless you have the specs from the previous owner). post the jet and choke tube numbers here for good advice.

paul

[Jake Raby]

if the timing is set right, you'd think it would run ok...

mine did the same until i put smaller choke tubes back in. it had 32mm's and i put 28's in, cleared it right up. now i'm looking for cheap 30's because i lost some power doing this.

it might be a little nervewracking pulling apart the carbs, but you'll need to (unless you have the specs from the previous owner). post the jet and choke tube numbers here for good advice.

paul

The engine should NOT run better on the 28 vents over the 32 vents! What has happened is an increase in pressure inside the carb at lower speeds with the 28 venturi since it is smaller and offers a higher velocity charge than the larger 32 had. In every instance that this has occured here I have found internal issues with the carbs that caused it, sometimes it is as simple as fuel pressure, other times it has been float settings. Also some carbs have Fiat emulsion tubes in them, this will also cause this issue-

You have deeper issues with the carbs, the 28 venturi is not soliving anything, its just covering up the symptoms with a band aid.

[Root_Werks]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

[Bleyseng]

If the dizzy is the stock unit with the FI trigger points, its actually a vacuum/centrifical advance unit. That dizzy is better than any 009 any day.

Get a Mallory if you want the best.

[lotus_65]

well, if it isn't my old buddy jake!

i guess if you would have answered my e-mail(s) regarding this issue i wouldn't be being called out by you in this very public manner.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

i have paged you. please return my call.

paul

if the timing is set right, you'd think it would run ok...

mine did the same until i put smaller choke tubes back in. it had 32mm's and i put 28's in, cleared it right up. now i'm looking for cheap 30's because i lost some power doing this.

it might be a little nervewracking pulling apart the carbs, but you'll need to (unless you have the specs from the previous owner). post the jet and choke tube numbers here for good advice.

paul

The engine should NOT run better on the 28 vents over the 32 vents! What has happened is an increase in pressure inside the carb at lower speeds with the 28 venturi since it is smaller and offers a higher velocity charge than the larger 32 had. In every instance that this has occured here I have found internal issues with the carbs that caused it, sometimes it is as simple as fuel pressure, other times it has been float settings. Also some carbs have Fiat emulsion tubes in them, this will also cause this issue-

You have deeper issues with the carbs, the 28 venturi is not soliving anything, its just covering up the symptoms with a band aid.

[Jake Raby]

I received one email and replied to it. That email was sent through my engine shop, not through the parts department. I only answer those engine shop emails every 3-4 days.

Remember:
I can't support everything after an engine is assembled, I offer tuning information for each combo but I simply cannot hold your hand through issues the way that I would a complete engine customer that has received my fully tuned package.

Part of building a kit is working through issues, thats why the kits are less than 1/2 the cost of a complete turn key engine.

I do support my kits and products, but I can't be married to them like an engine that has my name stamped on it with all of my labor and practices.

I didn't call you out, I was simply stating that my recommendation has been proven to work best with your combination on dozens of occasions- if it is NOT working well for you on that same combination the issue lies elsewhere more than likely...

[lotus_65]

what exactly is the engine shop address you claim i used? i happen to be 100% positive of the address i used, and i have my e-mail filters set up perfectly, so it would be a first to have missed your reply.

you called several weeks ago and gave me much information, but because i was working i couldn't take notes. perhaps you would be willing to re-send or pm that email?

paul

[Jake Raby]

The email came into info@aircooledtechnology.com which is listed in my contacts list as being particular to engine shop customers. Its not a huge deal that you used that one, it just seriously throws off my ability to keep email content straight and recorded for future use and it also increases my response time because I only work at that computer on Tuesdays and Fridays as a general rule. When we aren't as busy I try to check this email daily, but that isn't always the case.

All engine kit customers should use the email address enginekits@aircooledtechnology.com as that account goes directly to Rebecca and she will answer it or forward it to my immediate response account whereI will receive it fastest to either reply or call you.

Here is the text from my contact us page:

enginekits@aircooledtechnology.com- This email is for all engine kit dialogue. This includes kit contents, and order processing.

We receive over 400 emails a day generally so keeping track of all of them pertaining to different things is very difficult. I came up with specific accounts to enhance my ability to record and reply to content.

At any rate, I do not have PM here any longer as I disabled it because too many questions were being asked that I could not record in my email system and it was creating confusion. Send me an email with your number that you will be at today and I will call you.
enginekits@aircooledtechnology.com is where it needs to go.