 Yet another rear trunk torsion spring question, Removing the bars and rollers? |
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| campbellcj |
 Oct 24 2003, 11:44 PM
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I can't Re Member  Group: Members Posts: 4,544 Joined: 26-December 02 From: Agoura, CA Member No.: 21 Region Association: Southern California 
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OK...I have read the various posts about making special tools etc. to replace the rear trunk lid rollers, convert to gas struts, and whatnot.
My dumb question of the day is -- if I just want to permanently REMOVE the torsion springs, rollers, hinges, etc. i.e. to go to a pinned-on f/g lid, can I simply remove the nuts on the torsion spring brackets carefully and remove all the junk? Or will I be decapitated or rendered sterile by trying that? I know they are under a lot of tension, so is there some particular sequence to remove the brackets or rollers? Thanks... |
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| Malmz |
Oct 24 2003, 11:50 PM
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CSOBOSC founding member Group: Benefactors Posts: 489 Joined: 22-April 03 From: So. Cal Member No.: 602  |
They are going to "twangggg" when you remove the bolts, you don't want to have your hands in there with a wrench at the same time.
I have always removed the bars the stupid-ass way... Sawzall gets you out of harms way when you hold it with one hand... Hey, I didn't say this was the recommended way... it's just fast and easy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif) |
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| Brad Roberts |
Oct 24 2003, 11:57 PM
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 19,148 Joined: 23-December 02 Member No.: 8 Region Association: None |
I do something similar to what Steve does.. I use a cutoff wheel on the actual springs and let them "spring" free before removing the 10mm nuts. I cut them in the middle (anywhere I like)
B |
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| boxstr |
Oct 24 2003, 11:58 PM
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MEMBER:PACIFIC NORTHWEST REGION Group: Members Posts: 7,522 Joined: 25-December 02 From: OREGON Member No.: 12 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I have removed a few of these and the easiest way is to basiclly take a long screwdriver and pry the tension rod ends off of the small rods where the rollers are located.
I would put a cushion of some kind in the engine compartment where the rod will snap down to. I would also put a long stick to hold the rear deck lid up or just remove the deck lid alltogether. Another place to get into the area that you need to access is remove the clear plastic cups, you can see the rollers better and the only thing that goe's flying is the small plastic rollers. It will be very noisy for a split second and you are done. Repeat this on both sides. Then remove the clamps and ten mm nuts and other stuff hoding them in place. Another thing, when removing the tension rods from the engine compartment, be careful not to touch them to the battery posts. Trust me, cover the battery or remove it. CCLINTENSIONRODHEAVEN |
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| Rusty |
Oct 25 2003, 07:43 AM
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Wanted: Engine case GA003709 Group: Admin Posts: 7,941 Joined: 24-December 02 From: North Alabama Member No.: 6 Region Association: Galt's Gulch
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I cut mine off (as described above), and then removed the pieces.
Then, I installed rear trunk shocks. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif) -Rusty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) |
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| rhodyguy |
Oct 25 2003, 08:00 AM
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,075 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
to get the springs off the rollers the safe way, open the lid, slip a deep well 1/4" socket with a long extension (a 9 or a 10 iirc) over the end of the spring. this makes for a nice lever. plus you're not directly in the line of fire.
kevin |
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| RustyWa |
Oct 25 2003, 09:28 AM
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#7
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Working Member Group: Members Posts: 610 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Kent, WA Member No.: 72 |
Just like Craig and Kevin. Works good.
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| pat4 |
Oct 25 2003, 10:12 AM
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Philippe Group: Members Posts: 78 Joined: 14-April 03 From: Bordeaux, France Member No.: 570 |
Who sells shocks kits ?
Regards, |
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| boxstr |
Oct 25 2003, 12:20 PM
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MEMBER:PACIFIC NORTHWEST REGION Group: Members Posts: 7,522 Joined: 25-December 02 From: OREGON Member No.: 12 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
CAMP 914
1580 Bedford Ct. Lake Oswego, Oregon USA 97034 $40.00 Plus outside USA shipping. CCLINCAMP914 |
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| pat4 |
Oct 25 2003, 12:46 PM
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Philippe Group: Members Posts: 78 Joined: 14-April 03 From: Bordeaux, France Member No.: 570 |
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| Mueller |
Oct 25 2003, 02:21 PM
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 17,146 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None
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I do the cutoff wheel method like Brad mentioned, but I wrap the springs with old beach towels before cutting to help absorb the energy once cut........
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| campbellcj |
Oct 26 2003, 09:03 PM
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#12
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I can't Re Member Group: Members Posts: 4,544 Joined: 26-December 02 From: Agoura, CA Member No.: 21 Region Association: Southern California
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I got 'em out with little trouble.
I first used the method of popping the ends off the rollers, thinking that I would be able to remove the rods intact...I have no idea why I thought I'd want to save them, but that never stopped me before (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) That first BANG sure made me jump. The wife probably thought I'd been shot. (She didn't come running though. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) ) Then I couldn't angle the damn things out so ended up cutting them anyway. Oh well. In other news...I also removed the cheesy (IMO) rear lip spoiler and reflector from the car. Trying to figure out what kind of appropriate "914R" treatment to do now. The reflector install left 6 holes in the rear panel so I might use a holesaw and do the "ventilated" look back there. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) |
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| campbellcj |
Oct 26 2003, 09:08 PM
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I can't Re Member Group: Members Posts: 4,544 Joined: 26-December 02 From: Agoura, CA Member No.: 21 Region Association: Southern California
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I'm thinking kinda like this - but maybe fewer holes if I use the GT-style rubber latches for the lid instead of the metal captive pin type.
I always really liked the looks of this car. I have no idea how well it "goes", but it looks killer IMHO. Attached image(s) 
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| redshift |
Oct 26 2003, 09:13 PM
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Bless the Hell out of you! Group: Members Posts: 10,926 Joined: 29-June 03 Member No.: 869 |
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| RustyWa |
Oct 26 2003, 09:14 PM
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Working Member Group: Members Posts: 610 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Kent, WA Member No.: 72 |
Man that's to bad you ended up cutting yours.....I just sold my old rear trunk torsion bars on eBay for $47 bucks....
Just kidding. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol3.gif) |
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| rhodyguy |
Oct 26 2003, 11:04 PM
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,075 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
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| Bruce Allert |
Oct 26 2003, 11:44 PM
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#17
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Hellions asleep Group: Members Posts: 3,289 Joined: 19-March 03 From: Eagle Creek, Orygun Member No.: 441 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Just did this today too! I used a Small pipe wrench on the torsion spring and took the tension off. Then removed the roller while pulling down on the wrench. The I was able to control the release of the spring so it didn't snap & scare the crap outta me. Then the removal to the nuts & clamps, along with cuting the center loop, allowed removal of the springs without cutting them.
Craig, haven't forgotten ya. Your strut package & directions are great. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) Thank you very much (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif) bruce |
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| Brad Roberts |
Oct 27 2003, 01:21 AM
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#18
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 19,148 Joined: 23-December 02 Member No.: 8 Region Association: None |
Chris,
I swear I adjust my tech answers based on the person and their car. I answered with the "cutoff" because I know your and your car. If some CW had asked the question I would have said " take your longest adjustable wrench and cut a notch in the end of it and use it as a lever to remove the tension against the...... you get my point. B |
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