OK...I have read the various posts about making special tools etc. to replace the rear trunk lid rollers, convert to gas struts, and whatnot.

My dumb question of the day is -- if I just want to permanently REMOVE the torsion springs, rollers, hinges, etc. i.e. to go to a pinned-on f/g lid, can I simply remove the nuts on the torsion spring brackets carefully and remove all the junk?

Or will I be decapitated or rendered sterile by trying that? I know they are under a lot of tension, so is there some particular sequence to remove the brackets or rollers?

Thanks...

They are going to "twangggg" when you remove the bolts, you don't want to have your hands in there with a wrench at the same time.

I have always removed the bars the stupid-ass way... Sawzall gets you out of harms way when you hold it with one hand... Hey, I didn't say this was the recommended way... it's just fast and easy.

I do something similar to what Steve does.. I use a cutoff wheel on the actual springs and let them "spring" free before removing the 10mm nuts. I cut them in the middle (anywhere I like)


B

I have removed a few of these and the easiest way is to basiclly take a long screwdriver and pry the tension rod ends off of the small rods where the rollers are located.
I would put a cushion of some kind in the engine compartment where the rod will snap down to. I would also put a long stick to hold the rear deck lid up or just remove the deck lid alltogether.
Another place to get into the area that you need to access is remove the clear plastic cups, you can see the rollers better and the only thing that goe's flying is the small plastic rollers. It will be very noisy for a split second and you are done.
Repeat this on both sides. Then remove the clamps and ten mm nuts and other stuff hoding them in place.
Another thing, when removing the tension rods from the engine compartment, be careful not to touch them to the battery posts. Trust me, cover the battery or remove it.

CCLINTENSIONRODHEAVEN

I cut mine off (as described above), and then removed the pieces.

Then, I installed rear trunk shocks.

-Rusty

to get the springs off the rollers the safe way, open the lid, slip a deep well 1/4" socket with a long extension (a 9 or a 10 iirc) over the end of the spring. this makes for a nice lever. plus you're not directly in the line of fire.

kevin

Just like Craig and Kevin. Works good.

Who sells shocks kits ?

Regards,

CAMP 914
1580 Bedford Ct.
Lake Oswego, Oregon USA 97034
$40.00 Plus outside USA shipping.
CCLINCAMP914

Ok for the deal.

Check your email

I do the cutoff wheel method like Brad mentioned, but I wrap the springs with old beach towels before cutting to help absorb the energy once cut........

I got 'em out with little trouble.

I first used the method of popping the ends off the rollers, thinking that I would be able to remove the rods intact...I have no idea why I thought I'd want to save them, but that never stopped me before

That first BANG sure made me jump. The wife probably thought I'd been shot. (She didn't come running though. )

Then I couldn't angle the damn things out so ended up cutting them anyway. Oh well.

In other news...I also removed the cheesy (IMO) rear lip spoiler and reflector from the car. Trying to figure out what kind of appropriate "914R" treatment to do now. The reflector install left 6 holes in the rear panel so I might use a holesaw and do the "ventilated" look back there.

I'm thinking kinda like this - but maybe fewer holes if I use the GT-style rubber latches for the lid instead of the metal captive pin type.

I always really liked the looks of this car. I have no idea how well it "goes", but it looks killer IMHO.

I like it too... uhh... duckie and a spoiler.




M

Man that's to bad you ended up cutting yours.....I just sold my old rear trunk torsion bars on eBay for $47 bucks....




Just kidding.

good one eric.

kevin

Just did this today too! I used a Small pipe wrench on the torsion spring and took the tension off. Then removed the roller while pulling down on the wrench. The I was able to control the release of the spring so it didn't snap & scare the crap outta me. Then the removal to the nuts & clamps, along with cuting the center loop, allowed removal of the springs without cutting them.
Craig, haven't forgotten ya. Your strut package & directions are great. Thank you very much
bruce

Chris,

I swear I adjust my tech answers based on the person and their car.

I answered with the "cutoff" because I know your and your car.

If some CW had asked the question I would have said " take your longest adjustable wrench and cut a notch in the end of it and use it as a lever to remove the tension against the...... you get my point.



B