 its HOT in here!, heater valve flappers |
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| SGB |
 Oct 2 2006, 10:05 AM
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#1
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just visiting  Group: Members Posts: 4,086 Joined: 8-March 03 From: Huntsville, AL Member No.: 404 Region Association: South East States  |
Last year my heat wouldn't shut off. The asbestos sealing surface inside the flapper had come loose and lodged inside to hold the valve open. I took out the offending peice, but left the whole system unplugged from the rest of the car. It is getting cooler, so I reattatched the valves. Now, even in closed position, quite alot of heat gets through. I need ideas on what material to use to make replacement seals. Anybody been down this road already?
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| ptravnic |
Oct 2 2006, 10:28 AM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,231 Joined: 27-May 03 From: Chicago, IL Member No.: 747 Region Association: None 
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are the springs in the flapper box allowing it to close? I've never had a prob w/too much heat and the asbestos is gone from mine too.
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| VWnDRAG |
Oct 2 2006, 10:34 AM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 69 Joined: 23-September 05 From: Hollywood, CA Member No.: 4,850 |
PelicanParts.com is the best way to go.
About 80 bucks for a whole new heater valve assy. Part # 022-256-205-B-M350 (left) Part # 022-256-206A-M350 (right) Attached image(s) 
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| SGB |
Oct 2 2006, 02:22 PM
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#4
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just visiting Group: Members Posts: 4,086 Joined: 8-March 03 From: Huntsville, AL Member No.: 404 Region Association: South East States |
QUOTE(ptravnic @ Oct 2 2006, 11:28 AM)  are the springs in the flapper box allowing it to close? I've never had a prob w/too much heat and the asbestos is gone from mine too. I don't know. Good idea! New flappers would be nice, but the $160 should go toward the impending trans rebuild first... |
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