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> Will 951/944 turbo calipers fit under 15" fuchs?, Lets make an adapter to make them fit :)
736conver
post Oct 4 2006, 01:46 AM
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Aaron,

I dont think your going to have enough room on your adapter plate for the holes. Measure it out 3 inch on center and 3.75 on center. Not enough material.
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Matt Romanowski
post Oct 4 2006, 06:32 AM
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I wouldn't slot any of the mounting holes. Weld more on and then drill it.

For the rears, I think we have some blank plates around. They have the right radius on the bottom and will weld right on. Not sure if they are drilled yet. Aaron - shoot me a PM if you interested in some.
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Eric_Shea
post Oct 4 2006, 08:43 AM
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QUOTE
ill know more at mockup.... but this is what i have in mind....


Brian's right. That step you have in your drawing will be about 1/16th" thick. (or about 1/16th of what yur skull is... now read what Matt just posted and get to work!) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
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Aaron Cox
post Oct 4 2006, 09:11 AM
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QUOTE(736conver @ Oct 4 2006, 12:46 AM) *

Aaron,

I dont think your going to have enough room on your adapter plate for the holes. Measure it out 3 inch on center and 3.75 on center. Not enough material.


yeah.. just thought about that... so the caliper will have to be reclocked just a bit...
(drawing inbound...)

OK.. so this gives ample room for BOTH sets of holes, and reclocks the caliper a little... (another way of making it sit further onto the rotor, and a better fit under a 15" fuch)


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Matt Romanowski
post Oct 4 2006, 10:06 AM
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I don't think I'm getting this. With the adapter peice, is it going to be a flat piece of steel? If so, then you're offset some amount. Is that what you're trying for to center on the rotor?

If it's not flat, I would be worried about the thickness of it where it jogs inbetween the holes.

I thought about a couple ideas like this when I did mine and just decided it was easier to cut the old brackets off and put on new ones.
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Aaron Cox
post Oct 4 2006, 10:08 AM
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milled piece of steel or AL...

the side view shows the profile (top right) ... keeps the caliper in the same plane as if it were mounting directly to the ears.....

Unmachined thickness would be (thickness of strut ears)+(thickness of caliper ears)

good point on the thickness of where it *jogs*

i guess space the holes further from each other to mitigate that...

(updated drawing for clarity)
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Matt Romanowski
post Oct 4 2006, 10:20 AM
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A quick sketch on an envelope and it may work. The ultimate answer is how it looks with the trailing arm and caliper in front of you. May be cheaper/easier though to just weld if you don't have a mill to do it on.
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Aaron Cox
post Oct 4 2006, 10:25 AM
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this is for the front at the moment,,,

you are spot on with the rear... gonna have to weld a tab on like you reccomend...

the above is for a bolt on adapter solution for the front of a 3" M strut
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Eric_Shea
post Oct 4 2006, 10:35 AM
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I would recommend a welder that is VERY familiar with cast iron. There are two methods. Hot and cold. I do NOT do my own cast welding. I take it to a pro.

These are brakes we're talking about.
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Aaron Cox
post Oct 4 2006, 10:38 AM
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QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Oct 4 2006, 09:35 AM) *

I would recommend a welder that is VERY familiar with cast iron. There are two methods. Hot and cold. I do NOT do my own cast welding. I take it to a pro.

These are brakes we're talking about.


no welding up front.... bolt on adapter (milled steel or AL)

welding tabs onto the rear like clay mentioned.... (trailing arm isnt cast... and neither is the brake caliper tab that is getting welded on) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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Eric_Shea
post Oct 4 2006, 11:30 AM
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That section of the trailing arm is cast. I see them in my sleep.
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Aaron Cox
post Oct 4 2006, 11:35 AM
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QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Oct 4 2006, 10:30 AM) *

That section of the trailing arm is cast. I see them in my sleep.


hmmm.. interesting twist.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Clay/Matt - have welded tabs on their ears... maybe they will chime in.
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andys
post Oct 4 2006, 11:38 AM
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QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Oct 4 2006, 10:30 AM) *

That section of the trailing arm is cast. I see them in my sleep.


Eric,

Are you sure they're cast? They look forged to me, but I will stand corrected. They are, afterall, weled to the mild steel tubular section of the trailing arm.

Andys
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Eric_Shea
post Oct 4 2006, 11:40 AM
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I'm sure people have done it. I've even seen pictures. Google "Welding Cast Iron" though... you need to make sure it's done right. It can be done. I'm just saying, it's not a backyard welder type activity for a brake mounting ear.

I can weld but I won't weld this. My guy does it one strike at a time and, it's very specific with regard to material and heat.

Just throwing more info out there...
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Brad Roberts
post Oct 4 2006, 11:43 AM
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QUOTE
No, the 15" wheels will not fit over the calipers. The 16" wheels are a tight fit.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bs.gif)

Been running them under 15x6 Fuchs on a 3.0 powered 914 for 5-6 years now. Started with Carrera Bilstein struts. Re-drilled the calipers and ran a Carrera 24mm rotor.



B
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Brad Roberts
post Oct 4 2006, 11:44 AM
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You can easily weld to the cast portion of the control arm. They used good steel back then.


B
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Eric_Shea
post Oct 4 2006, 11:45 AM
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Are you sure they're cast? They look forged to me, but I will stand corrected. They are, afterall, weled to the mild steel tubular section of the trailing arm.


The various sections of the control arm are forged and welded together. The section (bearing carrier housing) with the mounting ears "is" cast.

Again, I'm not saying it "can't" or even "shouldn't" be done. I think it's the best way to go for this mod. I'm just saying have someone who "really" know's what they're doing do it.

I can't think of anything more important than having brakes on a car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Mark Henry
post Oct 4 2006, 11:48 AM
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I know for sure Clay is right about 944/T brakes not fitting a 15" wheel.
I have a buddy that does this mod for bugs all the time.

Clay is also right on about the monoblocks.

My buddy...His name is Lanner, brake conversions are about all he does.

http://www.vdubengineering.com/
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Eric_Shea
post Oct 4 2006, 11:48 AM
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You can easily weld to the cast portion of the control arm. They used good steel back then.


The steel is good. We've had success welding other cast Porsche items. Just make sure you use the proper "cool" technique. I don't think the hot technique is really feasible.

Again, this is not a backyard MIG job.
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andys
post Oct 4 2006, 12:23 PM
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Eric,

The bearing carrier could simply be low carbon cast steel, rather than cast iron (which I would consider unsuitable for this application). Welding cast steel is quite a bit easier.

Andys
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